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As my signature says I have a 1998.5 24v Cummins. I want to list the build sheet and mark what I already have done. I would like you thoughts on hp/tq numbers I could possibly see and Different brands or routes to go with different parts of the truck. Also would like opinions on my taste for the appearance of the truck. = Purchased/On Truck = Tab is Open On Computer But Haven't Pressed Checkout. Mainly a Funds Problem haha Build Sheet: 1998.5 Cummins 5-Speed 13" Valair Single Disc 500/100 Clutch Kit w/ 1 3/8" Upgrade Input Shaft ATS 3-Piece Manifold BorgWarner SXE 62/68/70 Turbo HX40 Downpipe 5" Straight pipe Exhaust to 8" Tip Crazy Carls Intake Elbow Crazy Carls Tunnel Ram Intake 7x.011 Sac Injectors - DFI 104# Valve Springs Heavy Duty Pushrods - DFI ARP 425 Headstuds S&B Intake Fluidampr Quadzilla Adrenaline w/ Iquad(Possible V2 Upgrade?) Smarty S03 Traction Bars Track Bar - DOR Steering Brace - DOR All new HD Steering Components - Moog 2.5" Leveling Kit 18x10(12) or 20x12 Chrome/Forged Wheels with 33 or 35" Tires Bedliner Front Shocks Rear Shocks Stabilizer Shock Windshield Tint All Around as I have some kinda eye condition where I go blind when I see lights at night. I forgot what its called. Supposed to get a prescription fro doctor. Redo Entire Interior from Carpet to headliner Tow Mirrors(Folded In Until Needed) Clear Projector Headlights, LED Tailights, Led Third Brake Light Remove Tailgate Plastic New Paint Chrome Door Handles Colormatch Bumper Plastics

ABS Failure - Diagnostics Tips 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System 2 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (RWAL - Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) I find its really common to hear people complain about ABS and BRAKE lights being lit. There is a few simple things you can do to diagnose your problem. [*] Check your ABS fuses under the hood fuse #11 and check the #3 fuse inside the cab (driver side door jamb). Replace any that are blown. [*]Step on you brake pedal and see if the tail lights light up and turn off when released. If not repair the brake light switch. [*]Shift the transfer case into 4WD and check if the 4WD light comes on. (4WD equipped vehicles). If not repair the 4WD switch. [*]Does the speedometer work? If so the rear speed sensor in the differential is functional. So now that you done that much that means that it one of the front speed sensors that has either become disconnected or the sensor has failed. If the lights remain the only way I know to diagnose this correctly is at a Dodge dealer. They have the tools to hook up to the ABS computer and pull the error codes and tell you what has failed. Once you've repaired the problem you must drive the vehicle to reset the ABS and BRAKE lights. Also take the second and check the error codes on the ECM/PCM and reset any error codes. Description - CAB (Controller Antilock Brakes) The Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB) is a microprocessor which handles testing, monitoring and controllingthe ABS brake system operation (Fig. 10). The CAB functions are: [*] Perform self-test diagnostics. [*]Monitor the RWAL brake system for proper operation. [*]Control the RWAL valve solenoids. NOTE: If the CAB needs to be replaced, the rear axle type and tire revolutions per mile must be programed into the new CAB. For axle type refer to Group 3 Differential and Driveline. For tire revolutions per mile,(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/TIRES - SPECIFICATIONS) . To program the CAB refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual. Operation - System Self-Test When the ignition switch is turned-on the microprocessor RAM and ROM are tested. If an error occurs during the test, a DTC will be set into the RAM memory. However it is possible the DTC will not be stored in memory if the error has occurred in the RAM module were the DTC’s are stored. Also it is possible a DTC may not be stored if the error has occurred in the ROM which signals the RAM to store the DTC. CAB Inputs The CAB continuously monitors the speed of the differential ring gear by monitoring signals generated by the rear wheel speed sensor. The CAB determines a wheel locking tendency when it recognizes the ring gear is decelerating too rapidly. The CAB monitors the following inputs to determine when a wheel locking tendency may exists: [*] Rear Wheel Speed Sensor [*]Brake Lamp Switch [*]Brake Warning Lamp Switch [*]Reset Switch [*]4WD Switch (If equipped) CAB Outputs The CAB controls the following outputs for antilock braking and brake warning information: [*] RWAL Valve [*]ABS Warning Lamp [*]Brake Warning Lamp P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel antilock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

I know there are a lot of people wondering about where the "sweet" spot is on the cummins for mileage and I am here to tell you that there is no sweet spot. Speed kills. I have ran numerous tests and proven that every 5mph gain costs you 2mpg. A while back I was testing this theory and on a 70mph trip I got 21mpg, on a 60mph trip I got 25mpg, at 55mph I was at 26.6mpg. So I theorized that doing 65 on this 700 mile trip would yield 23, and I was exactly right. I got exactly 23mpg. Less RPM=less injections per minute. Less speed=less wind to push out of the way. It's simple, and it works. I know some people out their are claiming 26mpg at 70mph or something crazy like that but if thats the case, why aren't they posting 30+mpg numbers when they do 60! :confused:

I did some more measuring and testing for the MPG crowd. Before I start I will say that I just verified my SGII and its right close to being on the money (off by 0.2 gallons). I'll assume that a slight error between the ScanGauge and the fuel pump. Now I my truck conditions are Edge set for 5x3, IAT fooled to 143*F, Engine coolant varied from 188*F to 197*F, winter fronts still on. Actual weather was high of 65*F (actual IAT was ~90-105*F) Now since I was on I-84 down in southern Idaho today I figure I open the beast up and let it fly low for once. So I set the cruise for 75 MPH and reset the current MPG counter and measure for about 20 miles of highway. I was pulling roughly ~13 MPG. Then after shopping in Nampa, ID and got back on the same stretch of highway again and set my cruise this time for 65 MPH then reset the ScanGauge II again and measured about 20 miles of highway again. I turned out ~18 MPG. Then even with all the playing driving fast and slower I still pulled in the yard with a total of 22 MPG. So from this rough measurement I found that roughly for every 10 MPH above 55 MPH I lose roughly 5 MPG. This is calculated numbers here. According to Google Maps its 300 miles round trip what I drove. Time to travel distance 300 miles / 55 MPH = 5.4 Hours 300 miles / 65 MPH = 4.6 Hours (0.8 hours less than 55 MPH) 300 miles / 75 MPH = 4.0 Hours (0.6 hours less than 65 MPH, 1.4 Hours less than 55 MPH) Amount of fuel consumed 300 miles / 21 MPG = 14.2 Gallons (@ 55 MPH - not a true 55 MPH because of testing) 300 miles / 18 MPG = 16.6 Gallons (@ 65 MPH) 300 miles / 13 MPG = 23.0 Gallons (@ 75 MPH) Cost difference @ $4.019 Gallon (which I paied for) 14.2 Gallons x $4.019 = $57.06 16.6 Gallons x $4.019 = $66.71 ($9.65 more than 55 MPH) 23.0 Gallons x $4.019 = $92.43 ($25.72 more that 65 MPH, $35.41 more than 55 MPH) Another tidbit. I get the same MPG's towing my RV at 55 MPH than I do driving empty at 75 MPH. Also the fuel consumption rate at 75 MPH is just about the same as climibng a 5% to 6% grade at 55 MPH. This shows that amount of rolling resistance and wind drag differences between 55 and 75 MPH.

so i was doing some thinking today on my way home since i started driving 65 rather than 70if i can gain 2mpg by doing 65 rather than 70 mph i will save (fuel at $4/gal) 3 cents a milei will use my situation.. Drive: 70 miles/day 20 days/month 1400 miles/month x .03 cents = $42now saving $42 a month doesn't seem like much but lets look at how much more time it takes for me to drive 70 miles a day at 65mph vs 70mph60min/70 = .857143 minutes/mile x 70 miles = 60 minutes of driving per day60min/65 = .923077 minutes/mile x 70 miles = 64.6 minutes a dayso if i save myself 5 minutes round trip thats 2.5 minutes per one way so really unnoticeable as far as fuel savings by driving slower and time savings by driving faster (5 minutes versus $2)heres where it gets interesting... if i look at that as dollars an hour i can take (2x12)/(5x12) = $24/60min:smart:so by driving 65 miles an hour rather than 70 if i look at it as time spent for the money saved im making 24 dollars an hour just for driving 5 mph slower...what a deal!also..im in the process of checking my exact mileage gains but say i get 4mpg more then everything doubles+2mpg = $24/hr+3mpg = $36/hr+4mpg = $48/hrnow as fuel prices go up... so does your money making!!:cookoo:i always like to look at the positive side of things:thumb1: