Oxidation on 7 pin plug connector

[flagmanruss]

When ever I go to hook up, I have to wiggle the plug all around in the socket.  Usually I get continuity...  eventually...  but sometimes not even after vigorius wiggling.  I think it's just oxidation.  Over the years I've tried various things like emory on a tiny file, bagging the plug between uses, etc.   

Has anybody found a solution?  Maybe dielectric grease? 

 

I took the landscapers trailer out yesterday.  Put new LED tail lights on last fall.  And one side refused to work.  I went out with a meter & now it's on.  WTF?  I'm guessing that all my wiggling PLUS the road vibration, finially broke through the oxidation. 

 

I have one bulb marker light yet to get going.   

[Wild and Free]

They make nice trailer plug socket cleaning tools and kits, I like to keep electrical contact cleaner on hand as well there are many brands and most do a good job, just get what ever your local parts jobber has should work. It is an aerosol can but it eats the corrosion off nicely and then hit the socket with a cleaner and good to go.

[Mopar1973Man]

Like on the RV I hang my trailer plug over the propane bottles and slide the cover back over. On the utility trailer I just coil it up on the tongue of the trailer. I know I'll have issues with the utility first. As for the trucks I typically attempt to make sure the cover door is closed on the plug to keep moisture out when not used.

[joecool911]

The truck end seems to suffer the most. Gets water in it from road spray and is always out there as opposed to the trailer end that sits a lot. I find dielectric grease helps but every few years you just gotta replace it.

[flagmanruss]

I've used "tuner cleaner" which was originally intended to remove oxidation TV tuners.  I don't like the stuff (tuner cleaner) because it seems the contacts oxidize again very quickly.  Maybe the di electric grease or something like BreakFree CLP.  I am thinking a product that would stay in place & reduce the oxidation. 

I'm Googling trailer connection cleaner now.  Any more specific suggestions?  

 

BTW, china made 7 pin flat connectors don't fit in my truck socket.  Good napa ones do.  I can visually spot the ones that won't.  The contacts extend noticeably to the side of the opening.  PITA!

 

I've been using a backup beeper in the 7 pin on the truck, so the cover has to be open.  (Not as loud as I'd like but better than nothing.)

 

additional:  I've spotted covers for the trailer side of the plug http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/shop/7-pin-plug-cover/   Probably an annoyance for trailers in frequent use, I think this would be useful protection for the trailer that gets infrequent use...  Certainly not a total solution but an assist?   

Edited May 16, 2015 by flagmanruss

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

I've always kept the truck and trailer connectors gooped with dielectric grease and never had a connection issue or had to clean them in 5 years. The 7 pin in the trailer doesn't have a cover either. The only problem is it can collect dirt so I just blow it out with my air compressor and re-grease.

[Wild and Free]

I've always kept the truck and trailer connectors gooped with dielectric grease and never had a connection issue or had to clean them in 5 years. The 7 pin in the trailer doesn't have a cover either. The only problem is it can collect dirt so I just blow it out with my air compressor and re-grease.

I do the same thing and wind up having to use electrical cleaner anyhow as there ends up being too much dirt built up after die electric grease. I do both a couple times a year. Blow gun and electrical cleaner and reapply a bit of grease. But its not always a cure all still have a circuit on occasion that wants to be a pain, usually on the pontoon trailer more than any a lot of the time is seems the electric brake circuit on my gooseneck doesn't make ground on occasion too but after a few miles of bouncing down the road always seems to get the trick done.

[flagmanruss]

Tractor Supply is listed as a dealer for Fastway but when I called the local store he could find no listing for the item.  I shopped around some & found other sellers were more expensive than a direct purchase from the mfg...  plus shipping in all cases.  I bought 3 for the 3 active trailers (omitting the horse trailer which will be For Sale as soon as we get it emptied out).  I don't see that a cover can do any harm & might do some good.  I do tuck the plug under what ever protection is available when not in use, but this is a very humid coastal area. 

 

I've found suggestions to clean with a vinegar solution (mild acid) followed by baking soda or "tuner cleaner".  I don't see anything wrong with these approaches except they are caustic & leave the bare metal unprotected.   

I think a di-electric grease type treatment is needed to stop the re-oxidizing after cleaning...  which has been my nemisis. 

A cover or other protection would serve to keep the weather out & the grease in. 

 

Maybe this is silly but I wondered about using a felt "battery washer" inside the cover to protect the terminals.  Worth a try in any case.  (88 cents for 2)  I can't find what the chemical treatment id of the felt.  Baking soda? 

 

If the plug is protected when not in use, I don't see how grit would collect in there.

Edited May 17, 2015 by flagmanruss

[flagmanruss]

The LED tail lights I installed on this trailer last fall are "surface mount" on a angle iron bracket. 

 

Before I had to unhook the trailer they were working.  The tail lights are not really combination side markers (though legally they should be.  There's no working license plate light either as the plate is bolted the ramp after ripping off the low hanging plastic bracket when thetrailer was new.)  

I decided to add side markers with the turn flash feature...  I will wire them in right at the tail lights splice.  This will PROVE the power is getting there & make it much easier for me to check light function (considering my mobility difficulties). 

 

I'm planning on keeping this trailer for the foreseeable future.  It was my hay trailer & already modded for that use.  Tongue V added expanded metal platform (to unload hay) and relocated & extended the jack (so it didn't hit the gate)  Enough reflective tape that if someone hits the black trailer in the dark, they did it on purpose!  It's not usually in a place to get a good view ofthe front.

Edited May 17, 2015 by flagmanruss

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

Another thing to consider is if the connector is badly corroded that green fuzz can creep up the wires and no amount cleaning will help.

[flagmanruss]

I don't think the wires are corroded at the lights.  I did all solder splices & shrink tubing the first time.  I didn't have the time on the rework.  If there's corrosion, it's likely just oxidation in the plug contacts.  Just particularly tough this year.     

I really liked the way the rear lights matched the steel like they were made for it.  I'm thinking I'm gonna add the clearance lights under the upper rail above the tail light.   

[flagmanruss]

I received the "Fastway" dust cover for the 7 pin Rv plug from Progress Mfg Inc 82-00-3316.  http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/shop/7-pin-plug-cover/  I bought 3 for my trailers...  all fit fine.  I found it to be a soft rubbery type material which was easy to work over the trailer side of the plug.  I don't think I'll use the lanyard which would have to stretched over the plug...  and leaving it dangling where it might get hung up & lost. 

 

Going forward, I'm planning to use some dielectric grease & this should keep it where it where it's put. 

 

 

I'm still waiting for the combination marker / turn lights which I want to install on the landscaper's type trailer.  I want to install under the side rail above the tail lights.  I found a galvanized L bracket at Home Depot, all ready made.  I'll bolt that under the top rail & wire to the tail ilghts.