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I know I can fix this But?


vini

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Let me start from the beginning. Bought the truck 3 years ago with 77,000 miles on it. Now approx. 130,000. Six months ago (When all my problems started) Some jack#&! sole the NOx canister off my truck. truck ran fine with awsome fuel mileage gain. Of course the check engine light came on. No biggy. I'll deal with it. Then an upper console message. DPF full/ power reduced/ see dealer. Truck ran fine except pulling my trailer down the highway when I would hit a hill as the truck would downshift it would lose power. ( My truck is used every day for our business, and never leaves the house without a trailer hooked to it.) I figured the exhaust can wait until vacation time. I would do a delete. Three weeks ago the truck just lost power and started missing. I limped it home and called my diesel mechanic buddy. He put his scanner on it and told me all the codes for the exhaust. I already knew that. Then he said I have a #4 injector misfire. I did not see the codes since he was the mechanic not me. I did not know anything about injectors at that time. He removed the injector nozzle and said this is the bad injector. I went to Auto Zone to order a new one.(Holy &#$* are these things made of gold?) Now I found out what an injector really was. I will skip all of my learning process because you guys sound like rocket scientist to me. I replaced the fuel nozzle and injector with the help of the internet. (This is how I stumbled upon you guys) After all this work on my truck I started it up last week, and it is still misfiring. No change. I have to hold the gas peddle down to keep it running. I hooked a scanner I rented from Auto Zone to it this morning. The only code I am getting is the P242F. I already know that since I have about a 19 inch gap in my exhaust system from the missing canister. No other codes and the truck barely runs. I don't have a mechanic buddy anymore. I think he erased all the codes. I'm not sure. I have researched til I had to loosen the adjustment on my hat. I know I can fix this,but I am going to need some guidance. I don't know what to do next. 

 

By the way I am going to be a diesel mechanic when I grow up. HaHa. Thanks in advance for the help!

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first thing would be check for blow by, pull oil fill cap when engine running. see if it's chuggin like a train. next i think there is a trim code for the new injectors. but i've only heard of this i know nothing about it.

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First off I would have all injectors pulled and pop tested. Because it sounds like you got more than one bad. Then while all 6 are out I would do a compression test. Since it common for common rails to wash out all the rings with bad injectors. Then I would never replace one injector but replace all as a set. Yes common rail injectors are expensive about $3000 to $4000 for a set which is about 10 times higher than my old 24V.
 

 

I replaced the fuel nozzle and injector with the help of the internet

 

Which most likely didn't fix the ultimate problem. The problem is in the A port valve of the injector because its sticking open.

 

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No blowy what so ever. I guess that it some good news. Moving on. Going to check the valve cover/injector harness with an ohm meter today. After watching the video on how injectors work on common rails, This is probably a dumb question, but is it normal to have oil all over under the valve cover? Removing # 6 is going to be a cussing party I can tell right now.

 

Mopar1973man; That video link was very informative. I bet Henry Ford and the Dodge Brothers had no idea!

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I know I'm not a common rail owner, but I do know one thing. If I were to ever own one, the first thing that would get replaced would be the injectors. Specifically with smarty bbi injectors!

Look them up, they are an investment.

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No blowy what so ever. I guess that it some good news. Moving on. Going to check the valve cover/injector harness with an ohm meter today. After watching the video on how injectors work on common rails, This is probably a dumb question, but is it normal to have oil all over under the valve cover? Removing # 6 is going to be a cussing party I can tell right now.

 

Mopar1973man; That video link was very informative. I bet Henry Ford and the Dodge Brothers had no idea!

 

Blow by test to me is a joke. Ask JL-Welding about his misfire problems and no blow by. It only cost him a total of $20,000+ to get fixed. If you want to check the status of each cylinder you need to run a compression test. Like JL_welding his problem was cracked piston but would not show up on a blow by test. Do mind you JL_Welding truck is a 24V engine versus a CR engine but the fact remain you can damage 1 cylinder enough to create a misfire but pass a blow by test.

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A misfire and blow by can be 2 conpleatly different things so I wouldn't bank one on the other. Broken rings, or excessively worm cylinders walls, can still fire with no codes but will not pass the blowby test.... Unless the test is to see how high the oil cap will go. You can throw an oil cap into the hood and still fire on all 6 and not even be that rough on a warm motor.

If the misfire is from a lack of compression I am almost positive you will not pass a blowby test... Based on what I have seen for blowby tests. For $20K he better have gotten two spare engines with a rebuild.

CR injectors don't pop... So no pop testing required. They have full pressure all the time.

OP.. You are running without a NOx canister and no tuner? That would be a PITA to steal as you have to lower the transmission crossmember to get it out. Or are you taking about a DPF?

P242F Is for the DPF and not the NOx canister.

Running without a DPF and no delete tuner is asking for trouble. DPFs are quite $$$ I think I would file an insurance claim on the theft and get a tuner.

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Yes John I have been running without the NOx canister. This model year it is bolted on. Insurance will not pay for anything else other than original equip. It's a two party check to me and the shop of my choice. This is from Allstate. They are covering there butts on this specific stolen item. A new one cost 3500.00. It's full of platinum. People were unbolting it, taking it to a scrap yard, getting $850.00, Then file on there insurance and using the money for something else. I've already been that route. I have a $1000.00 ded. So I figured forget that I spend my money for a delete kit instead. I have been running around for about three months without it. Now that I am training myself to be a diesel mechanic I am figuring out its not good. So my truck has been regenerating quite a lot trying to unplug the DPF that is not even connected to the exhaust anymore. Now I know that is not good on the injectors. Premature wear from the heat. I pulled another injector today to inspect it. I don't know what to look for. There is some carbon build up on the nipple, and I can see I think 7 little pin holes around the very tip. Can you tell if there bad by looking at them? Also Why can't I take the bottom half off and clean it myself? Or am I back in the stone age when you could fix things? My major problem is throwing money into a truck I am still paying for. I mean, This is a  pretty major expense. I just don't have that kind of money to throw around.

Anyway could I clean my own injectors?

What kind of trouble am I looking at running no exhaust except for the cat and about 20 inches of pipe?

I am looking for a set of stock injectors or aftermarket that won't set me back, If anyone has any suggestions, I would love to hear them.

I am looking for a new or used NOx canister, If anyone could help me with that?

 

Thanks in advance gentlemen. 

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When did you disconnect the DPF?

There are 3 different emissions components in the exhaust, so are you missing 2 of them?

It was my understanding that the DPF was the $3500 part with all the platinum and while the NOx absorber is $$ it is not as much as the DPF. Maybe I am thinking of the cost for an entire replacement exhaust.

Just trying to clarify what you have going on.

I know the ECM does NOT like a tuner free delete, which is what it wounds like what you have.

Not much you can see on a failed injector as they generally fail internally, wether it be the pintle/seat or solenoid. 130K miles ins't premature for failed injectors.

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Still not pop pressure and shouldn't be labeled as such.... There is no way to make a HPCR injector pop, unless you apply too much pressure and blow the pintle out the tip... but that only works once :-)

 

The Bosch test stand, the only one worth using, has a 16 step process for testing the injectors. They test them with pressure from 25 MPa (3,625 psi) to 160 MPa (23,206 psi) and open time from 160 to 2000 micro seconds, but nothing in the testing sees as what pressure they open which is a pop test, since they do not work that way. Old school terminology doesn't always work on modern technology. 

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More or less they can test for leakage during the test. Or as Dodge calls it measuring the return flow rate. Your right there is no real pump up to pop pressure to make it open being the solenoid and valve is what actually makes it POP off. But spray patterns and internal leaking flow rates can be measured and checked. Which is part of the problem with CR injectors. Yeah the term "POP Testing" might not be correct like Wild & Free says "High Idle" isn't correct either. So lets just say "Injector Testing"... :wink:

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  • 1 month later...

Have all Injectors properly inspected  ...

 

I replaced the engine on my truck because I bought it at a good price with a blown engine. When I got the new engine and was transferring parts from the old engine to the new short block I was not going to take any chances with the new engine so I sent the old injectors to F1diesel.com and had them clean, inspect and service all 6 injectors I also sent my CP3 to Wicked Diesel which is now MotorsportDiesel.com and had him inspect the CP3 because I found currosion in the fuel rail (does not apply to you). The common rail fuel system is a delicate beast and extremely dangerous to the truck and the person working on it if they do not know what they are doing. Personally I would not recommend for anyone to self teach on how to become a diesel mechanic by starting with the Fuel System on a common rail, just my .02 .

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