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dually

what wires?

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I have the picture of the cummins engine.Next to the factory fuel filter it has two sets of wires out of the harness.One is the fuel heater and one is the water in fuel.Is the one that is the "thick" wire the fuel heater.It looks like 12 gauge wire?The clips look the same.My factory fuel filter is long gone and i have forgot whats what.Thanks.

---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 AM ----------

a fresh look this morning the clips are different.The fuel heater should be the 12 gauge wire.I cant see that 16 gauge doing big work like heating fuel.

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I think you answered your own question. That would have been my call too.

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What i am looking to do is run my fass pump off the fuel heater wire.I hate when the ecm cuts the power to the fass when at high rpm.The fuel heater wire is hot only when key is on and wile starting.I dont know if the heater sensor turns on at a given temp or how it works.I am still working on it.I dont want to fry the relay.Any input on this?

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What i am looking to do is run my fass pump off the fuel heater wire.I hate when the ecm cuts the power to the fass when at high rpm.The fuel heater wire is hot only when key is on and wile starting.I dont know if the heater sensor turns on at a given temp or how it works.I am still working on it.I dont want to fry the relay.Any input on this?

That won't work...:stuned:

The problem is that after the fuel temp is over 60*F the power is shutoff (In design)... As for the ECM cutting the fuel pump it should be cutting power at anytime during engine run. I would wire in a test light and see if the power is constant at WOT operation. If so then your FASS is on its way out...

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Why not just wire the pump directly to the battery with the ECM plugged into a relay to control the power coming from the battery. This is the way the these pumps are supposed to be wired. Not sure why you would want to wire it another way unless I missed something. (I AM great for doing that :lol: ) I believe you can by the extension wire for the ecm to the relay from Vulcan Performance. I believe they also sell a wiring kit for the batter to pump too. Call Eric and ask him about this. I am confident he can get you squared away.

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That won't work...:stuned:

The problem is that after the fuel temp is over 60*F the power is shutoff (In design)... As for the ECM cutting the fuel pump it should be cutting power at anytime during engine run. I would wire in a test light and see if the power is constant at WOT operation. If so then your FASS is on its way out...

From what i am reading the fuel heater is not computer controlled.I dont have the factory fuel filter set up any more.I took it off a few years ago.I just have the wires.From the cummins manual to me it says the "sensor" turns on and off not the power wire.I could be wrong.Still checking.My fass is good.The test light will flicker at 3500 or so.The ecm thinks it is a run away.

---------- Post added at 06:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:23 AM ----------

Why not just wire the pump directly to the battery with the ECM plugged into a relay to control the power coming from the battery.

This is the way the these pumps are supposed to be wired. Not sure why you would want to wire it another way unless I missed something. (I AM great for doing that :lol: )

I believe you can by the extension wire for the ecm to the relay from Vulcan Performance. I believe they also sell a wiring kit for the batter to pump too. Call Eric and ask him about this. I am confident he can get you squared away.

The reason is when i race and just want to run in the upper rpm range the ecm cuts the juice to the wire.My cam and valve springs are good in the 4000 range.Most guys run the trigger wire from the fuse box.I wanted to have something that was hot during the starting as well.I would run a toggle switch but knowing me i would forget to flip it on.I guess i still have some reading to do.If i have time i will call Vulcan performance, thanks.Working 2 shifts.It stinks i have all the parts to fix my truck and get it back on the road just no time.

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Have you talked to someone who can reflash the ecm software to raise rpm limiting to 4000 rpm? I don't think a SMARTY can do this but those folks may be able to help you achieve this.

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Ok... So you need a RadBox and wire up a relay for the pump... The RadBox will cut the speed limiter (governor) completely. What it does it kills the signal to the instrument panel so the ECM/PCM never know how fast your going so it continues fuel MAX all the time. Then for the fuel pump you wire up the standard ECM and Relay setup. But now add a DPDT switch in the ECM line going to the relay. One side of the switch is normal ECM triggered for everyday driving. Then the other side is FORCED ON power for Racing. Left contacts - ECM powerRight Contact - Key On PowerCenter Contact - To the relay.

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best option I am aware of as an alternative for wiring the pump is off the ignition wire.

But that still leaves you with high pressure during startup. Some VP44 just don't like it...

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