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Garage - Sylvia


Guest 04Mach1

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I remember one short time member who said, "I wanted a Cummins, its not my fault a Doge came wrapped around it". I bought my first one in 96 with a V10 in it. It blew up with 165k on it and thats how I got into the 02 I have now. While I have had some electrical issues that were pricey the mechanical end has held up surprisingly well. At least better than expected. 446k and still running a fair amount of OE stuff. I have not been disappointed for the long haul. All of the manufacturers have had there issues. 

 

I do agree with you on crap shooting ball joints. 

Edited by dripley
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  • 2 weeks later...

I just put a Mopar T Bar style steering on mine, I ended up putting grease zerks in all four joints, one on passenger side was kind of tough to drill through but I got it. Did moog come greasable? I do like the t-bar versus Y bar much better design. 

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Guest 04Mach1

Yeah all 4 ball joints on the Moog steering have zerks. I found both hubs were shot and the right lower ball joint bad. Everything else seemed tight. I replaced it all anyway. I still need an alignment but I am extremely happy with the steering on my truck now. I'm not constantly correcting the steering to stay going straight. I can actually turn loose of the steering wheel and the truck stays going straight. Hopefully I can get the truck aligned this week. I'm gonna be busier than a cat covering ? this week.

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1 hour ago, 04Mach1 said:

Yeah all 4 ball joints on the Moog steering have zerks. I found both hubs were shot and the right lower ball joint bad. Everything else seemed tight. I replaced it all anyway. I still need an alignment but I am extremely happy with the steering on my truck now. I'm not constantly correcting the steering to stay going straight. I can actually turn loose of the steering wheel and the truck stays going straight. Hopefully I can get the truck aligned this week. I'm gonna be busier than a cat covering ? this week.

Where did you buy the Moog steering ?

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I did my own alignment with tape measure, I'm about 1/6-1/8" tow in. It's pretty easy to do especially with t style steering. It took me 3 tries to get it there, adjust, drive, pull in straight on level surface, measure tread front to back in few spots, when all done have a beer. Worked for me, I even used the beer can to patch few holes, looks and drives way better. This is some Japanese rice beer, cans were definitely made for dodge maybe even out of a dodge :shrug: but I know why they charge 3.50 a can :wow:

20180708_210118.jpg.446264dae68e34b633d5a071b0806be0.jpg20180708_210054.jpg.485e4a568a192dc19cd4d391907ddc8b.jpg

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Guest 04Mach1
3 minutes ago, dripley said:

Where did you buy the Moog steering ?

I got the steering and track bar off Amazon. It was cheaper than my cost through O'Reilly's. Rock Auto might be just a tad cheaper than Amazon but I haven't checked in a while. Amazon has always been a little more convenient for me with the prime membership.

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Guest 04Mach1

Just sharing an issue I'm having with the Moog T-steering on my 2nd gen. When I make hard left turns the right TRE rubs inside the wheel so I'm going to clearance the right TRE just a little. So far I'm happy with the tightness and predictive steering.

 

 

 

 

IMG_20180712_212941.jpg

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2 hours ago, 04Mach1 said:

Just sharing an issue I'm having with the Moog T-steering on my 2nd gen. When I make hard left turns the right TRE rubs inside the wheel so I'm going to clearance the right TRE just a little. So far I'm happy with the tightness and predictive steering.

 

 

 

 

IMG_20180712_212941.jpg

That is a common problem on the 16" stock wheels.

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Guest 04Mach1

I'd read the TRE stud was an issue with the Mopar kit but I hadn't seen anything about the Moog TRE hitting the wheels. I'm thinking that because the drag link is just a little too long causing the steering wheel to clock to the left a bit is most likely the issue. I gotta chop some of the drag link to shorten it's length to get the steering wheel straight and I'll bet I won't have anymore left hand turn grinds.

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My drag link on Mopar kit from Rock Auto still has about 1/2" of gap for adjustment, no need for shaving.  it may depend on frontend sagging overtime,  I have new plow package springs on front of mine to support my bumper. Or maybe we have different pitman arms. I did hear of some people have to make it shorter and others don't.

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Guest 04Mach1

Well I decided to get after the drag link after I ate supper tonight. I cut about 1/2" off the long side of the drag link and shaved the end off of the short side of the drag link so threaded ends matched at 2-1/2” of thread on each side. Steering wheel centered up nicely and still have room to spare for adjustment if needed. Checked the right TRE clearance to wheel cranked hard left and right TRE lightly rubbing the wheel. Shaved about 1/8" off the side of the right TRE and it no longer rubs the wheel in hard left turns.

 

Still need to take it for an alignment but the steering is very tight with no wander or pulling which means I got the alignment pretty good by measurement and eye ball.

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