No Vacuum after Oil Change

[Greenlee]

My friend Tony went out of town on a hunting trip so I had to take my 12v to another shop he mentioned for the oil and filter to be changed and fuel filter to be changed. I dropped it off last Thursday and picked it up a couple of hours ago. Left my phone number in case they couldn't get it started because of fuel filter change. They never called and that was the issue for taking 6 days to complete. Everything except the fuel gauge worked fine prior to leaving it with this shop. I get in to crank it and it acts like it is in 20* below zero, A/C only comes out the wind shield vents and cruise doesn't work either. More crap to deal with. I don't have a clue where to start looking for a line pulled off or cut, I feel it was done deliberately, hope I'm wrong about that. Don't see where any vacuum lines would come into play with a oil change. I took it back and told him what was going on but he said that wasn't any fault of theirs. I'm trying to sell this truck and thought I could list it today but now I need to fix the vacuum issue. Any body know where I should start looking? Thank you ahead of time for your help. 

[Royal Squire]

Likely the vacuum line got pulled off right on top of vacuum pump 

[Greenlee]

1 hour ago, Royal Squire said:

Likely the vacuum line got pulled off right on top of vacuum pump 

I'll start there, is there any reason you can think of that it would be pulled off? It doesn't come into play with an oil change unless they thought it was a fuel line. It doesn't take much to start a 12v or 24v after the fuel filter is changed, I always primed it and cracked a few injector lines, never had a starting issue. I told this shop to call or even look it up on YouTube or Mopar Forum. I must have pissed them off to charge $40.00 with the oil and filters supplied. I'm getting too old for all of this. Appreciate your suggestion Royal Squire, I hope it's something simple.

[Tractorman]

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

Don't see where any vacuum lines would come into play with a oil change

 

It shouldn't for an oil and filter change, but you also said that he fuel filter was to be changed.  That is in the area of vacuum lines.  There are some large and small vacuum connections starting from the vacuum pump (large ones) up to the firewall near the rear of the valve cover.  Any one of those connections could have been knocked loose or cracked

 

- John

[dripley]

If the one on the vac pump is still in place follow it up to the fire wall. I am always pulling mine loose whenever I am working around the fuel filter.

[Greenlee]

23 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

 

It shouldn't for an oil and filter change, but you also said that he fuel filter was to be changed.  That is in the area of vacuum lines.  There are some large and small vacuum connections starting from the vacuum pump (large ones) up to the firewall near the rear of the valve cover.  Any one of those connections could have been knocked loose or cracked

 

- John

I guess I should start at the Vacuum Pump and chase the lines back to the Fuel Filter area like you are saying. Everything worked great prior to doing this. I hope it's an accident that caused the lines or what ever it is to lose Vacuum, I wasn't very happy with the owner and he made it clear he wasn't happy trying to start it back up. Thanks John, I know it's a goofy question or topic but I really appreciate some direction to go in. I'll let you all know what I find.

5 minutes ago, dripley said:

If the one on the vac pump is still in place follow it up to the fire wall. I am always pulling mine loose whenever I am working around the fuel filter.

Well I guess it could be an easy thing to pull loose, thank you DRipley for the reply, I'm going to start at the pump and work my way up to the firewall and so forth. Have a good day

[Tractorman]

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

I hope it's an accident that caused the lines or what ever it is to lose Vacuum

 

If it is a line connection at fault, you really can't blame the mechanic, especially if the lines have not been replaced for a long time.  There are various size hoses and connections with plastic T's and fittings.  The hoses get brittle or soft and crack or tear..  Carefully inspect each connection.

 

The HVAC system will default to defrost mode if the vacuum supply is lost.  This is designed for safety to ensure that the inside of the windshield will not fog.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

- John

[Greenlee]

You all were right on the money, I got a flashlight and started at the Vacuum Pump then went up to the firewall and fuel filter area. Didn't see a thing, tried to look under the dash but I couldn't begin to get my fat head down there. Went back to the Vacuum Pump and this time noticed a small rubber 90 degree fitting that was open on the end. The line going to it was routed in a way that I couldn't see the end, somewhere under the battery. I had to pull it out and route it another way to mate up with the Vacuum Pump. Makes me wonder why in the world it would be like that. The rubber is rotten but still holding a vacuum. I need to replace it so tomorrow I'll start looking for another rubber 90, I'm not going to stick it to a buyer now that I've seen the condition. Many thanks for the help and advice. 

[Greenlee]

On 10/24/2018 at 5:52 PM, Tractorman said:

 

If it is a line connection at fault, you really can't blame the mechanic, especially if the lines have not been replaced for a long time.  There are various size hoses and connections with plastic T's and fittings.  The hoses get brittle or soft and crack or tear..  Carefully inspect each connection.

 

The HVAC system will default to defrost mode if the vacuum supply is lost.  This is designed for safety to ensure that the inside of the windshield will not fog.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

- John

I know I was assuming that who ever worked on it might have done this deliberately. I was telling my son about it and mentioned the place I took my truck and he told me that he used to take his trucks there for repairs. Funny thing is when they got a truck back from them there was always more issues to deal with. On the last one a little over a year ago when they cranked it something was rattling horribly, they got a floor jack under it and found the starter bolts were all backed out and the starter just hanging in place or just enough to work. What ever the job was it had nothing to do with the starter and how could all of the bolts back out at the same time. Maybe the owner doesn't know what's going on but somebody is messing with more than what the work order was written for.

I plan on telling my friend I usually deal with what happened and maybe he should be more careful who he recommends to fill in for him. I usually don't think of things like this happening but right off the bat the line is completely out of sight instead of being close to the nipple it came out of, I had to reroute it back over to the Vacuum Pump fitting on top, makes me wonder. I thankful for all the help and suggestions that guided me to find the issue. 

One more question I have is where I can buy a replacement rubber 90 that attaches to the Vacuum Pump and the small plastic vacuum line. What will work and where to find it. Thanks  

[dripley]

Most AZ, AA, and such have a small delection of both.

[Greenlee]

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Most AZ, AA, and such have a small delection of both.

I bought a selection of 4 elbows, popular brand but I can't think of it off hand. None of them worked, haven't been able to reach the parts department at Dodge but I'm dong a search now, thanks for the tip

The rubber elbow 1/4" is not sold separately by Chrysler, it's an entire assembly from the Vacuum Pump to the wire harness holding the line in place at the rubber hood seal. Part Number and Made in Mexico is 55056421AA    The picture is from Rock Auto $13.03

 

 

Dorman has a 1/4" elbow as well,  Dorman, Part # 47092, Advance Auto is holding one for me now, about $3.50.

 

 

Live and Learn it's listed for $15 on the Mopar Parts Online 

[dripley]

50 minutes ago, Greenlee said:

I bought a selection of 4 elbows, popular brand but I can't think of it off hand. None of them worked, haven't been able to reach the parts department at Dodge but I'm dong a search now, thanks for the tip

The rubber elbow 1/4" is not sold separately by Chrysler, it's an entire assembly from the Vacuum Pump to the wire harness holding the line in place at the rubber hood seal. Part Number and Made in Mexico is 55056421AA    The picture is from Rock Auto $13.03

 

 

Dorman has a 1/4" elbow as well,  Dorman, Part # 47092, Advance Auto is holding one for me now, about $3.50.

 

 

Live and Learn it's listed for $15 on the Mopar Parts Online 

I have not had much fun looking for that stuff myself. I need to replace most of it my self. figured I would gather some stuff and build my, but this looks promising.

 

never saw it this on RA but somethings you have to do a search for.

Edited October 26, 2018 by dripley

[Greenlee]

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I have not had much fun looking for that stuff myself. I need to replace most of it my self. figured I would gather some stuff and build my, but this looks promising.

 

never saw it this on RA but somethings you have to do a search for.

It's a step up from fabricating one especially for the price, it's some type of Vacuum Assembly, didn't pay any attention either. I throw it up when I see it again.

Mopar Part No.: 5013679AA   VAC LINE-A/C AND HEATER VACUUM

HARNESS A/C And Heater Vacuum W/ PWR HEATED MIRRORS

Edited October 26, 2018 by Greenlee