1999 Cummins 2nd Gen Electrical short

[Ryan Daugherty]

"If the test lamp does not light and the voltage drops to zero, then the ignition switch is not likely the problem.

 

If the test lamp does light and the voltage remains the same or near the same, then the ignition could be the problem"

 

What wires and how exactly are we testing here?

 

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this.

 

[Tractorman]

1 hour ago, Ryan Daugherty said:

What wires and how exactly are we testing here?

 

I have made assumptions on what you are testing, what tool you are testing with, how you are connecting with the testing tool, and the state of the connection with the ignition switch.  I have made these assumptions (correctly or incorrectly) because you did not state the details.  Here are my assumptions about your test:

 

*  You are using a multi-meter displaying voltage.

*  You are testing the output of the ignition switch, specifically the black wire with the white tracer and the light blue wire shown in the wiring diagram provided by Mopar1973Man.

*  You are performing your test with the wiring harness connected to the ignition switch (normal condition).

*  The ignition switch is in the off position.

*  Your multi-meter black test lead is connected to a known good ground

*  You are probing the BLK/WHT wire with the red test lead and you are  recording 11 volts.

*  You are probing the LGTBLU wire with the red test lead and you are recording 10.7 volts.

 

If this is how you are doing your ignition switch test, then your recordings may not be conclusive because the multi-meter does not place a load on the circuit - you could be reading stray voltage, or a back feeding voltage.

 

By simultaneously connecting a test light at the same connections as your multi-meter, you can place a small electrical load on the circuit, thus eliminating any stray voltage.

 

*  If the test lamp does not light and the voltage drops to zero, then the ignition switch is not likely the problem. 

 

*  If the test lamp does light and the voltage remains the same or near the same, then the ignition could be the problem, OR, another circuit could be back feeding.

 

- John

 

[Ryan Daugherty]

Yes this assumption is correct on how I'm testing wires.

 

Okay tried this-

"By simultaneously connecting a test light at the same connections as your multi-meter, you can place a small electrical load on the circuit, thus eliminating any stray voltage."

 

Got These Results-

black/white wire voltage 10.84 light comes on.

lght/blue wire voltage .03 light does not come on.

 

[IBMobile]

Another way to test if the power to the ignition switch is from the battery or stray voltage would be to remove the #10 fuse pictured blow.  By removing this fuse battery voltage is remover from the switch.  If no voltage, present then bad switch.  If voltage still present the stray voltage back feeding. 

 

 

[Ryan Daugherty]

Hooked everything back up normal, batteries hooked up.

 

Pulled 50 amp ignition run/acc out and still have power to radio and wipers.

Theres another ignition fuse in my box it's a 30amp ignition run fuse?

 

[Tractorman]

2 hours ago, Ryan Daugherty said:

Pulled 50 amp ignition run/acc out and still have power to radio and wipers.

Theres another ignition fuse in my box it's a 30amp ignition run fuse?

 

Stick with your previous procedure.  As IBMobile says, Fuse #10 (50 amp) goes to the part of the ignition switch that gives power to the BLk/WHT wire that you were testing.  Test it again with Fuse #10 pulled.  Post your results.

 

One step at a time...

 

- John

Edited November 30, 2018 by Tractorman
spellling

[Ryan Daugherty]

Found 10a seatbelt fuse #13 pulled fixed all my problem. So its somewhere in the seatbelt system. Mopar1973man hooked up a seatbelt diagnostic attachment I'm going to read over that and do some testing on the seatbelt system.

 

Okay so pulled 50amp fuse to ignition run/acc and we still have 11 volts of power to the

 

 

I just tried disconnecting the little box under the center counsel and put everything back to normal, batteries hooked up all fuses back in. When I did that it seems that everything went back to normal. My radio or wipers dont come on anymore until I plug that box back in.

Testing radio and wipers with key off.

Sorry for jumping the gun, I'm just getting excited!

[Ryan Daugherty]

So now we got this narrowed down to the (seat belt control module), we need to figure out how to fix this module. I've looked online to try and order one but everybody seems to be out. I read in mopar1973man's post that this module cannot be repaired or tampered with? What are people doing to fix this problem?

[Ryan Daugherty]

I'm going to copy and paste what 8 did to fix it. I was so excited I didn't think to take pictures sorry.

 

First I did this about a year ago-

 

"I took the module apart and removed the ball; did not solve the problem, belts still would lock up while driving.
So, I connected/soldered a jumper wire between pin 4 (dark blue wire) and pins 7 & 8 (orange/black & orange/red wires) inside the module so the seat belts are powered anytime the ignition switch is either on or in the accessory position. (Also you can cut wires and use butt connectors) This now allows the belts to pull out with the switch on but if you pull one quickly, it will lock up due to the built in inertia function so hopefully the belts would work in an accident situation as long as the seats are not reclined.

 

Just today after some online research I found and did this-

 

I tried jumping the blue wire (12 volt supply only when ignition or accessory positions are selected) to the two solenoid leads, as suggested elsewhere, but that didn't solve the battery drain problem, as the pink wire (continuous 12 volt supply) was still hooked up, providing an uninterrupted power supply to the solenoids, and that was the whole problem.

What I did do is cut the pink wire right near the wire harness connector, thus interrupting the continuous power supply to the module, but I also soldered a short wire between pin 3 (pink wire) and pin 4 (blue wire)--this was done on the back of the module's circuit board. Now, there is power coming into the module only when the key is turned to the ignition or the accessory positions. The seat belts won't release or retract unless the key is in the ignition or accessory position, but that seems a small price to pay. The pre-tensioning function of the module remains intact, as there is power to the module when you are driving.

 

 

This seemed to have fix my problem. If you dont here from again its fixed. Woohoo