Getting back into the trucks

[That Guy]

I'm Dan. I currently split the year either helping on the family farm in Louisiana or studying finance in Tennessee at UTC. I worked for several years as a mechanic on heavy equipment and tanks in the private sector. I tore several ligaments in my left ankle several years ago, that being the primary reason for my departure from full time mechanic. I still like to work on things on the side on occasion, but it has limited my mobility in some ways. Can feel like someone has a knife in my ankle sometimes.  

 

After several years of being parked and me only making casual glances at truck, I've decided to get the 97 back into proper running order. The head gasket started leaking coolant and I parked it with the exception of the occasional fire up and move 20 feet routine. The steering was vague at best, the dash, both cover and core were gone, the a/c hasn't really worked in this decade, the spot welds are busted on the drivers side rear of the bed from what I assume to be several blowouts before I got it, the mount for the front right fender at the bottom of the cab are destroyed (also assuming a tire blowout), axle seals leaking at all four corners, and finally, the fact it is not one color. 

 

I happened to be searching for a fan shroud for the truck a few weeks back and found an intact and sturdy dash. I was shocked, by that, and that some guy decided he needed my Makita 1/4in impact more than me when my back was turned. It has been installed in the truck, along with an air handler that has been completely refurbished. Seats next....

 

The head is in the machine shop currently, magnafluxed, machined, and valves ground. 

 

I bought a blue 1500 CCSB 2wd as a parts truck 2 years ago, It is instrumental in getting the truck monotone again, and well as various interior bits and general spare parts. 

 

Recently when working on the dash, I discovered I could push the brake pedal to the floor by hand. Ordered all new rubber lines, need to pull the drums and access the damage from the leaking axle seals, and maybe brakes now.

 

I'll be sticking with stock in a lot of places, but I also like to tinker. If there is any interest I'll detail a bit more (maybe a build thread if those are still a thing). So far, Its mostly stock with the exception of a HE351VE vgt off a 2010 and a 100 gph fuel pump. 

 

BTW, I'm still hunting for a fan shroud if anybody happens to have one for less that the price a left arm in shipping.

[JAG1]

Welcome to the truck club. Pretty good bunch here. 

 

I find it very interesting reading about the progress with your truck. I really enjoy my two second gens and never would sell them. I hope you take to yours the same way as most of us here. 

[That Guy]

I have read of the cool attitudes here as well as always kinda thinking that mopar1973man always made good posts on CF I was still an active in 2010-2014. In general, seems like a far more constructive environment.

 

I inherited the truck back in 2011, it was well worn at that point and was parked in the pasture next to the 92 D250 CTD. I was an ignorant teenager at the time, I've learned a lot. 

[JAG1]

Take your time, do it right, you'll want to keep it forever. It's a great truck with no smog and no 5,000 bucks just for injectors. 

Edited July 19, 2020 by JAG1

[LorenS]

21 hours ago, JAG1 said:

and no 5,000 bucks just for injectors

Yes!

Welcome, That Guy, nice to have you join us.

[That Guy]

You mention injectors...... Mother was driving the 2012 and picked up some bad fuel with water in it. Called it into the agricultural department and they found about 6 inches water in the tanks of the fuel station.

 

It took out the pump and all 6 injectors. Insurance covered it and sued the gas station. Come to find out, so did 7 other people. 

 

Apparently it cost $9000 for just our truck. Had the local diesel shop do it.

[JAG1]

That's incredible. Get a big water sep filter on there if you can. I like mine with the clear bottom and drain. I have only seen a tiny bit of water in there. Without a filter before the lift pump the water gets emulsified by the lift pump and passes on to the injection system (bad deal). 

[Mopar1973Man]

On 7/20/2020 at 7:44 PM, JAG1 said:

That's incredible. Get a big water sep filter on there if you can. I like mine with the clear bottom and drain. I have only seen a tiny bit of water in there. Without a filter before the lift pump the water gets emulsified by the lift pump and passes on to the injection system (bad deal). 

 

Hence why I run the AirDog and the stock filter system. The AirDog 150 on my truck catches most of the water. What little makes to the stock filter maybe a drop or two... 3um filter on the AirDog and 7um in the stock filter can.

[That Guy]

What's kinda funny in all this, my neighbor has a CaseNH tracked skidsteer. A TR320. This morning we are going to put the injection pump back on after a rebuild because water got in the fuel and rusted up the pump internally. Happenes to have a 4 cylinder version of a Bosch VE pump like a 1st gen. 

 

He had a off road diesel tank he was using that I think has condensation issues. He wasn't as attentive as he probably should have been.

 

The pump rebuild was over $700. I think he has learned his lesson. He was talking about putting a fuel water separator on it now.

[That Guy]

Little update on the truck, that brake pedal that goes all the way to the floor....... there was hardly any fluid in the reservoir. The dark color that I assumed to be the fluid was in fact just gunk from very nasty and very over due for a change fluid. I'm suspecting that the wheel seals are not the only thing that is bad on the rear axle. How are you guys liking the 1 ton GM wheel cylinders? Looks like I may be in the market for calipers too, crossing that bridge once the front comes apart for balljoints. I have new rubber brake lines sitting on the shelf waiting to go on.

 

 

 

 

Most things are back together under the hood now, so at least there is some progress.

Edited August 5, 2020 by That Guy

[Mopar1973Man]

Brake fuild should changed every 30k miles. The fluid has moisture in it and oxidized all the seals hence the black color. Now I suggest you rebuild the whole system. New Master, New calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Look over the metal tubing rust holes or leaks. Double check all the rubber hoses too.

[That Guy]

@Mopar1973Man

Is there a brand of parts you recommend? Or just rebuild them my self, Summit Racing has rebuild kits and they are only ~3 hours from here and sell thm.

[LorenS]

I'll bet a dollar that Mopar1973Man recommends NAPA

[That Guy]

I tend to like NAPA. Most of their locations seem to cater almost exclusively to commercial customers, or at least people who have at least a vague understanding of what their car is/does. Never heard of the part "furool pump" until I stepped into an autozone.....

Edited August 5, 2020 by That Guy

[JAG1]

You guys should see the inside of the two Napa stores in these two logging towns in Oregon. Blow your eyeballs out with all the good stuff in there. You don't get the feeling your at Montgomery Wards like a lot of places.

[LorenS]

2 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

You don't get the feeling your at Montgomery Wards like a lot of places.

If it was Montgomery Wards of the 40's and 50's, I think I'd love to spend a few hours there!  Looking at old catalogs they had some really cool stuff way back in the day.  I have an old Powr-Kraft table top drill press I used to use until I broke a cast sheave.  It's splined, so finding a replacement has thus far proven impossible, even McMaster Carr, etc. haven't been of any use.

I agree that NAPA is generally much better, but there are exceptions depending on the store owner's hiring decisions.  The O'Reilly's where I used to live had a guy in an office, not behind the counter, and he was the guy you needed to talk to if it was mildly complicated.  For instance, a Continental engine, and not a Lincoln Continental...  Pretty sad state of affairs these days at the parts houses.

[Mopar1973Man]

48 minutes ago, LorenS said:

I'll bet a dollar that Mopar1973Man recommends NAPA

 

Yup I typically do. Low failure rate typically. All the shops out here use NAPA since there is no Autozone, No O'rilleys, no Pep boys, etc. 

 

I have a NAPA in McCall, ID. Then the main NAPA store is in Council, ID. Then there is NAPA in Ontario, OR (no taxes and better discounts), then there is a NAPA in Grangeville ID. Now Ontario have Autozone and O'Rilleys but typically part guys are dumb as posts. 

[JAG1]

I didn't mean bad about Montgomery Wards. I should have used another example. I felt bad when they went out of business, they were around so long and yes I used to shop there also.

[Mopar1973Man]

I worked there for 2 years back as a kid. Van Nuys, CA. 

[JAG1]

Wards gave a lot of young people a start as I also worked there in Monterey, Ca. during summers, when not in school.

Edited August 5, 2020 by JAG1