Anyone ever do a ram air intake on our trucks? Bhaf seemed to be a good help and a good friend swore by the ram air intake on his VMAX bike. I feel like it would help in our application (diesel no real air fuel ratio no throttle blade) but I know it's mostly a looks thing on regular gas cars. Just curious if anyone has ever messed with it.

Food for thought. When tuning for efficiency like myself less boost is better. More boost pressure more you are unlocking fuel to flow. This will in turn create lower EGTs and cooler running engine. Even with Beast at 500 HP it cruise at 82 MPH in 5th gear at mere 2,500 RPMs but keep boost below 10 PSI and EGTs at 700°F. At slower 65 MPH I'm right at 2,000 RPM but EGTs drop to 550°F and boost of barely 1 to 2 PSI.

Absolutely! The thought isn't to make more boost rather to "force feed" the turbo a bit and make it work a bit easier hopefully increasing flow. If I can feed it .5 psi more at the inlet and drive pressureand everything else stays the same i should see more at the outlet for "free" I'm not shure if it will help when it's cold outside these diesel seem to like their inlet air pretty warm. I'd like to make a intercooler bypass for that reason but that's a lot more fab then I have time for right now.

If you wanna increase flow of air all you need to do is retard timing and air flow is increased.

Up here cold air is deadly and kills the MPG. Forcing more cold air would require lot more advancement as well.

One of the reasons I love BHAF with the 2nd Gens

I'm guessing by retarding timing your wanting to spool the turbo more? At highway speeds my turbo really isn't pushing anything I float between 1 and 2 psi at 65mph. When I drop out of cruise timing I don't see any change in boost until I get onto it. 30+% engine load. Im hoping to be more efficient not necessary get more power. Wouldn't retarding the timing cost me cylinder pressure/energy for the ignition event?

Yes your correct. More you advance less air needs to be forced into the cylinder also fuel is cut and locked out at lower boost.

Currently my best is +30 MPG across state of Washington from Seattle WA to the Idaho border at 300 miles and barely used a 1/4 tank of fuel. Beast is capable of 500 HP.

Another tip swap to 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L. More heat, less advancement, better thermal dynamics.

I've been meaning to swap thermostats to a 200 degree but how do you keep the quad reading temp? Anything over 200 and mine gets funny. Gage cluster still works but all my alarms are based on the quad readings. I have probably read every post you and me78569 have written what yall have gotten these old trucks to do is nothing short of crazy.

Quadzilla above 204℉ will revert to -40℉. I have installed the transmission temperature sensor in the oil pressure test port. This allows me to adjust timing based on oil temperature. As you find out you can cut up to about 35℉ off the oil temperature vs coolant. I can run as high as 220℉ in coolant but float right around 170-178℉ in oil temperature.

Timing can make or break net temperature system-wide. Now that I've retuned around the average 210℉ coolant temperatures you don't need as much timing advancement.

Even the picture below I can do this for less than 5 PSI of boost normally.

Edited Friday at 05:50 PM1 day by Mopar1973Man

Interesting