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To remove wheel bearings you must first get to them.I left one tire on the ground the other i used a jack stand to get it off the ground.The rotor can be a major pain.I use a air hammer with a dime size bit and hammer around the lugs.Some times this works.If the rotors are trashed just beat them.You will crack them but if there trashed and you are going to replace them then it is no biggie.You need to remove the brake caliper and the bracket that holds it.Be careful not to bend the dust cover it is sandwitched between the wb and the housing.Use a bungie or a coat hanger to hold up the caliper out of the way.

The axle nut should stay on.Remove the 4 bolts 1/2 way out that hold the wheel bearing.Get a helper(wife will do)

Start the engine.Get a socket extention,(or you can buy the 60 dollar tool) i used a 4 incher turn the steering wheel slow until the tool hits the bolt head then turn the steering wheel until the bolt and tool hits the flange of the axle.Now give it a firm tug after it stops.What you are doing is using the power steering to press the wheel bearing out.Repete the same way for the other 3 bolts.Check the bolt depth make sure you dont press if the bolt bottomed out,turn it out more.The axle will come out with the wheel bearing.Now remove the cotter pin and nut.

Clean the hole where the wheel bearing goes into.I used a green scotch bright pad.

Now you need to use anti seize on the new wheelbearing.Use it on the face of the axle,and in the hole

Now would be a good time to put ball joints and u joint.

I replaced the rotor,wb,u-joint,upper and lower ball joints.

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When i looked around for parts i found most of them come from china.Napa and autozone rotors china.I went with the 61.00 autozone rotors.Napa wheelbearings 320.00.Autozone 240.00.I went with Gmb 99.00 all 3 of them made in china.I spent 214.for the moog upper and lowers and the precision u joint. So for under 320.00 it is finished. I forgot to add 175 lbs of torque on the axle nut.210 lb tq on caliper bracket.The wheelbearing guy said this is why some fail sooner than later.He couldnt stress on how important the 175 is.That is for 01 3500 4x4.Yours may be different.

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the other side

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I used a jack stand but i also put pressure treated 6x6 under it just in case.

I used a bungie cord to get the caliper out of the way.

I took a rubber hose hooked it up to a shop vac and cleaned out the tube.

I just used my hand around the opening,the important thing for me was to get the chunks of rust out.When Mike C put the axle in i didnt want the greased axle to pick up any chips.I put some on the end that sits on the seal.

Use lots of anti seize.

To get the clips that hold the u joint on i bump my air hammer on the ends it pops them out.You can also use a screw driver.

Note on this side: my friend Mike C did most of the work on this side.I just turned the wheel as he put the tool in to press the bearing out.He had the u joint off the axle shaft in a flash.It took me longer to get the clips out than it took him to remove the joint.He does this for a living he is quick and good.

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I did the driver side and no it is not hard.My buddy did the other side,i was doing other jobs like antiseizeing and gringing off rust.When i did the driverside i used his otc set.

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