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Diys?


ackerdiesel

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Whenever I replace my OEM damper with a fluidampner I am going to inspect my OEM sensor and see where in the movement it fits. I may move it full fwd (without drilling) and see if it does anything.

As I said prior, the OEM tone wheel without modification, has slop in it, even though it's "pinned" to "index" it. I'm gonna guess the total movement of mine; from most advanced to most retarded, measuring on the outer side of the tone wheel, would be about 1/16". You fine out the indexing hole to give you more slop to advance the static timing. The Rokktech sensor did the same, but folks found out the sensor only could give you X amount of advance. Like I did with mine, I filed out the indexing hole until the tone wheel touched the bolts. IIRC, someone guestimated that was about 4-5 degrees of advancement based the on the 360 degree circle geometry.
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Once you have the tone wheel off your truck............it's the sprocket looking wheel behind the damper.................orient it so that the indexing hole is at 12:00. While looking at it with the hole at 12:00, you want to file out the left side of the hole about 1/8 inch to start. You can file it out enough to where the wheel won't advance any more because you're against the bolts!! Like mine.:smart: But I would suggest to do it in small increments. Put it back on the truck, and since you filed out the left side of the indexing hole, you'll be able to rotate the wheel clockwise so the indexing pin is now in bottoming out in the enlarged left side of the indexing hole in the wheel.Be careful putting the damper back on and tightening the 4 bolts back up, as you my move the wheel back counter clockwise.This little mod usually increases "low end" throttle response. Mileage may or may not increase.

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