"built" 47RE woes

[Rogan]

so I got the new Hayden trans cooler installed friday afternoon, as I had to tow the big trailer to Burlington, WV (about 1.5hrs west, across 2 mountain ridges. I mounted the new (big) trans cooler on the drivers side bumper bracket, just forward of the LF wheel-well liner.

I'll get a picture in a little bit, as it's raining now.

Here's what I got:

(Hayden) 226110 Imperial 10" Electric Fan (2.6"D x 11"H x 11.375"W) - $56.29

(Hayden) 243012 Imperial Maxi-Cool XL Transmission cooler (Size: 3/4" x 11" x 11-5/8") - $64.69

(Hayden) 226206 Imperial Thermostatic Fan Control - Preset 185*F - $27.69

I retained the other (inferior) tube & fin front cooler in the cooling circuit, as well, and it is secondary in the series. The trans temp sensor is mounted in the line just before the big (bar & plate style), in the outlet line from the trans. The fan is currently wired to run as long as the ignition is on, as I tried two seperate (NEW) thermostatic switches that are 'supposed' to turn on at 195*F and off at 185*F. Guess what? Neither did. Testing them in a pan of hot water proved the switches to 'close the circuit' at ~225*F. Yes, the water was boiling.. ( need to source a better way to trip the fan on/off.)

No stock exchanger (right side of the block) is in the system, curently; it developed a serious leak at the -AN fitting area a week or so ago.

Anyway, several of the grades were NINE percent, and ranged from 1/2 mi to 1 mi. in length. It was dusk as I left, and the ambient temp was cooler than usual (about 60*F.) I've towed in this temp before, and cruising 60-65mph on flat highwat carries about 165-170*F. Slower speed with grade would take it up to 200+.

AS I started working my way through town, temps were not registering on the gauge initially, then slowly worked their way up to about 150-155*F. That's the highest I saw the entire trip!

Once I got out of town and started my trip, cruised about 50-55mph.. temps dropped to 140. About 45 minutes into the trip, I was seeing 130*F temps.. They hovered around 130-135*F, even on the 9% climbs. I think the highest it got on a climb (OD off, TCC locked, 40mph pull) was like 138*.

On the way home, the trip took place from 9:35pm-12:10am. Ambient temp was about 55%, and a lot of moisture in the air, with a heavy dew. Temps stayed sub 130*F the entire way.

Saturday, I installed a new thermo-switch (they've all been the kind that pushes through the core fins) and guess what?? Same crap.. It never turns the fan on. I drove it today to run a couple of town errands (no fan) and the temp spiked to about 200*F at one time. This usually occurs if I sit at a light in D or N for any extended period of time. It can be around 200*F, and I can leave the light, get up to about 30 in 3rd, no OD, and then lock the TC, and the temps will fall to sub 180*F in about a minute. The fan would keep this from happening.

Any ideas on a better option for a thermostatic fan switch?

Here's the review I wrote on AdvanceAutoParts.com website, concerning PN 226206:

Easy to install, inaccurate control

By Rogan from Winchester, VA on 10/8/2012

Rating by Rogan: 2 of 5 stars

Pros:

Lightweight, Easy To Use

Cons:

Flimsy, Inaccurate Switch

Best Uses:

Large Cars, Trucks

Describe Yourself:

Casual Driver, Truck Enthusiast, Mechanic, Auto Enthusiast

Was this a gift?:

No

Bottom Line:

No, I would not recommend this to a friend

This unit is easy to install. However, the most important piece is the most unreliable of the contents in the package: The thermostatic switch. It is supposed to "close the circuit" at ~185*F. This does not happen. I tried two separate new ones and neither are accurate, or close, for that matter. In a pan of hot water, the 2 switches I got from Advance Auto Parts were nowhere close to this temp setting. One switch closed at 224*F, and the other closed at 240*F (water was boiling for a few minutes before the switch closed.)

Being that I am using the Imperial fan (226110) on the Imperial Maxi-Cool Transmission cooler (243012), these temperatures would have already caused transmission damage, let alone the fact that they're supposed to operate in the 185*F range. 40-60*F variance is totally unacceptable.

[Rogan]

[ATTACH]4530[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4531[/ATTACH]From the Galaxy S3

[JoeCanuck]

For a thermostat, you might try one of the many rad fan switches, stock on many cars. These are normally very reliable, in general operation and temp accuracy. Ebay has a selection of cheap choices as will your local wrecker. If you manage to track down a type you want, you can even get one new from an auto parts store. Many are cheap even new. These are usually of the style that threads into the rad but would be easy to zip tie directly to the rad.

[Rogan]

Thanks . I thought about that, but I'd rather stay away for using any type of sensor that I rely on its radiant temp, now, and go with something that actually samples the fluids temp. Derale has one that is 1/8" npt. The switching temp is a little higher than I'd like but it is the only thing I've found thusfar. Most coolant fan switches are rated around 205*F and that's too high for trans fan, IMO. From the Galaxy S3

[JOHNFAK]

I had one with my derailed kit I never used. Always on for me. Will send it to you tues if I can find it tomorrow

[Rogan]

cool. let me know what you want for it.

[JOHNFAK]

cool. let me know what you want for it.

Like our national debt - free money $$ !!! If I can find it ....

[JOHNFAK]

This one isn't 1/8 npt ... Think you just tap into where you want with correct thread and then it's a voltage signal based on temp ...

Work ?

[JOHNFAK]

Lied here's the NPt fitting

If it works pm me your address and I'll send it hopefully tomorrow

[Rogan]

I'll give it a whirl.. looks similar to the ones I have, but not identical. they' wouldn't "close the circuit" until well into the 220*F range, per my thermometer and a pan of hot water.

[Rogan]

so I did some wire chasing last night on the old truck.. Researching why my OSS is throwing a code. Wiring diagrams ('97, '99, '02) all show the OSS with a LG/BK (1) signal wire color, and a DkB/BK (2) OSS ground wire color.

OSS (1) goes to PCM, C2-B25, OSS (@) goes to PCM, C2-B28 with no connections/plugs between the OSS and the PCM.

My truck:

OSS1 is pinkish, OSS2 is BK. The wires go up the Driver's side of the firewall to the main harness at a "T" (one side of the T goes inside cab, the other side goes to PDC area) and disappears into the big harness..

I used a fox/hound (Fig. A) to try and trace the wires, but it was useless. I could get no solid signal, as there was too much bleed-over everywhere.

The other main issue is that PCM C2-B25 & B28 have no wiring in the plug. This truck was originally a manual trans truck, so that is understandable.

Question: Can I just rob a couple pins from a spare/junk plug, install them into C2 on my truck, and run new wires from the OSS to the C2 connector? The issues I'm having are:

[*]P0720 code

[*]1-2 shift at 10mph

[*]2-3 shift at 18mph

[*]OD shift at 20-22mph

[*]Only get a downshift if speeds are < 10mph

Fig. A

[Rogan]

no one? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[Rogan]

Lied here's the NPt fitting

If it works pm me your address and I'll send it hopefully tomorrow

Got it, John. Thank you!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[JOHNFAK]

Work ?... Or fail ...

[Rogan]

Work ?... Or fail ...

I haven't had a chance to install it yet. Maybe this weekend, if the weather holds out

[Rogan]

UPDATE:So I got a spare PCM plug from the wrecker yard yesterday. Today, I disassembles C2 and pinned in B25 and B28 ( as stated before, they're non-existant in my manual plugs).I then wired in the OSS to these wires. Also as ststed before, OSS pin1 goes to C2 (B28). However, the OSS plug wasn't numbered, and the wire colors do not match the FSM diagram colors. It is an AC type wave-circuit, so it doesn't really matter which is which, so I wire'd them in up anyway.I went to clear codes, only to find the I.O.D. fuse blown, so I replaced it. I knew something was amiss as my dome light didn't come on, and the key buzzer wasn't working.Cleared my OSS code, and took a test drive. It still shifts 1-2 and 2-3 before I even get to 20mph.So I came home and checked codes again, and got 2 new codes (I didn't see them before the test drive, but I didn't really check, I just cleared codes.)P1765 - Transmission 12V Supply Relay Control CircuitP0753 - 3-4 Shiflt Solenoid Circuit.No idea why.. I'm assuming the trans is in a sort of 'Limp Mode' so it short-shifts.??More checking to do, once I thaw out (34*F and breezy here)

[MnTom]

The limp mode is going into second gear and staying there. I don't know why yours is shifting so soon, but mine shifts quite quick too unless I am pressing hard on the throttle. Normal conditions the O/D shift is at 47MPH.HEY!!!! I just remembered a comment that Dave Goerends told me about the RE trannies...... The computer only looks at two things to determine what gear to put the tranny in. One is the OSS on the side of the tranny and the other is the TPS to determine load. Maybe your TPS is the problem?

[Rogan]

The limp mode is going into second gear and staying there. I don't know why yours is shifting so soon, but mine shifts quite quick too unless I am pressing hard on the throttle. Normal conditions the O/D shift is at 47MPH. HEY!!!! I just remembered a comment that Dave Goerends told me about the RE trannies...... The computer only looks at two things to determine what gear to put the tranny in. One is the OSS on the side of the tranny and the other is the TPS to determine load. Maybe your TPS is the problem?

Funny you say that. I was jsut reading about how there's quite a few guys that had issues with early shifting, etc.. Then they (12 valve guys) went with a potentiometer mod, rather than replace the $300 TPS.. I'm exploring this option, now, as it's about $5 in Radio Shack parts. Also, I'm curious if the two codes that I'm now getting are related to the TCC manual lock switch mod and toggle-controlled OD shift mod I'm running.. BUT, I've got the Trans relay jumpered, and it's making good connections.. EDIT: Adjusting the TV cable

[Rogan]

So I drove it this morning.. it's shifting really really early.. like 1-2 @ 8-10mph, and 2-3 around 17-18mph..

I've not adjusted the TV cable yet, but plan to try that before I leave work this afternoon, so to test on my way home.

Also, I hooked up my scanner to the obd2 port, and monitored the TPS %. In idle position, is shows about 27-28%. WOT shows 62-65%, depending on how hard you push it down. Idling, the engine also shows 14% load??

- - - Updated - - -

I checked the tv cable at lunch... it's pulled all the way out on adjustment, and still a tad slack between the cable end and the throttle linkage. When I get home after work, I'll crawl under and check the linkages and springs on the transmission-end of the cabling..

I'm at a loss, otherwise. the tv cable is rather new, by the looks of it and the parts tag is still nice, clean, and intact.

[Rogan]

I crawled under it this evening and found nothing wrong.. I tweaked the trans-side cable bracket but it didn't make much difference..

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

- - - Updated - - -

Apparently we don't have (m)any auto transmission gurus here..

:sad:

Here's what I have/use:

* 1-2-D controlled by the gear selector (as normal)

OD now controlled by a toggle switch that grounds the 3-4 shift wire (this wire no longer connected to the PCM; it is soley operable via the grounding toggle.

* LU is performed via a grounding toggle switch. LU will also be performed when requested by PCM as this wire still connects to the PCM (unlike the OD wire)

What I noticed this morning on the way to work, is that the LU will occur on it's own (with LU toggle "off" ), when I flip the "on" OD toggle at 40mph, or if I flip OD on at say, 35mph, the LU will occur around 40. It used to occur @ ~48-50mph BEFORE I fixed the OSS connections to the PCM.