'06 and later water pump change the easy way.

[hd99fxr3]

Other years will be similar, major point of contention would be the orientation of the belt tensioner.

Try to do it without removing anything but the belt and pump will take hours, and volumes of language not fit for Human consumption.

1) Get under truck on passanger side with a 1/2 inch long handle ratchet, not a breaker bar (head too thick). Insert the drive square on the ratchet into the belt tensioners preformed indention for the 1/2 inch square. Use the ratchet to pull the belt tensioner towards the ground. While holding the tensioner in this position take the belt off the the A/C pully. Return the tensioner to it's relaxed position, by reducing pressure on the ratchet handle. Leave ratchet on the tensioner for now.

2) Open drain-plug on radiator and let the water drain out. While you are waiting on this to happen, get all the other things you will need to do the job (list of tools and materials at the end of this guide)

3) Remove the Thermostat housing complete with hose, by removing the three 8mm bolts holding the housing to the engine block. Once it's out of the way remove the Thermostat and gasket from the block.

4) Remove the fan shroud support that is directly in front of the Alternator ( two 13mm nuts and two 10mm bolts).

5) Using a 1/4 drive ratchet and 10mm 6 point socket (12 point will cause problems), with a short extension between the racthet and socket remove the two bolts holding the water pump on the block {( you will need a cheater pipe on the ratchet ) be careful to keep the socket straight on the bolt while using the cheater pipe, it will have a nateral tendency to want to pull sideways and not square}. Remove water pump.

6) Clean the area on the block where the O-ring on the pump seals against the block ( I used a Scotchbrite pad ) { hint your wife has one in the kitchen, used to scour pots and pans }.

7) Install O-ring on new pump using a bit of grease to hold it in place.

8) Making sure the weep hole is pointed down (may be located differently than OEM pump, mine was), install the new water pump. Making sure to use cheater pipe and common sense to tighten the two bolts, while keeping the socket straight on the bolt head.

9) Turn pully on pump to insure, freedom of movement, and then reroute the serpentine belt correctly over and under all the pulleys (a smooth pully rides against the top side of the belt). Don't forget tp remove the 1/2 inch ratchet from the tensioner, once the belt is correctly back in place and fully tensioned.

10) Close radiator drain-plug.

11) Put the fan shroud bracket back on.

12) Pour 1/2 of a gallon jug of antifreeze in radiator, then fill jug back to top with water, giving you a 50/50 mix. Do a second gallon by pouring half of it into the first jug that is now empty, now fill both jugs to the top with water. Pour them into the radiator while keeping an eye on the hole in the block where the thermostat goes (if you already put it in you've messed up but not totally) {in the event you did this, remove the heater hose off of the pipe coming off the cylinder head}. When the water fluid is at the top of the hole in the block, stop filling the radiator.

13) Install a new Thermostat and gasket in the block and install the thermostst housing including the upper radiator hose.

14) Remove the heater hose off of the pipe coming off the cylinder head and resume filling the radiator, slowly until fluid starts to come out the pipe on the head. Going slower with the pour continue to fill the radiator until there is a head of fluid on top of the pipe but not flowing over. Re-install the heater hose, and finish filling radiator till full.

15) Start truck, and make sure you don't have any leaks.

16) Go for a test drive until you reach normal operating temprature. shortly there after you should be back where you did the work. Shut the truck off, after parking over a dry area, clean up the mess. Once that's done, check underneath the truck to make sure you don't have any leaks, if there are none, take a break and have one of your favorite beverages. Once the truck has cooled off, so that there is no danger of burning yourself, remove the radiator cap and check your fluid level, if it's good, put the cap back on and fill the coolant tank with 50/50 mix to the full mark.

17) Go for a longer drive this time, so that the truck gets up to temp. continue for a half hour or so before returning home. Once there have another beverage, if there are still no leaks. let the truck cool off to the point that removing the radiator cap will not result in scaulding yourself or others. using a coolant tester check to make sure you have ample coverage for your area of the country. Adjust as needed.

List of materials tools are as follows:

3 gallons of G-05 antifreeze

New water pump and gasket

New thermostat and gasket

Scotchbrite pad

Clean water source (distilled water is recommended)

1/2 inch drive, long handle ratchet

13 mm ratchet wrench

1/4 inch drive, ratchet with short extension

10 mm 1/4 inch drive six point socket

8mm 1/4 inch drive six point socket

Two foot long cheater pipe, small enough to have a good fit on 1/4 inch drive ratchet.

Hose clamp pliers or good screw driver depending on clamp type.

SUBSITUTING in 3/8 drive for the 1/4 inch drive tools will result in abject failure and rounded off bolt heads. Leaving you crying for mommy, and wishing you had taken it someplace to have the work done. A ratchet wrench may work on the top bolt, not on the bottom one. Trying to use anything but a 1/4 inch drive 10mm 6point socket and ratchet on the bottom bolt, Will fail horribly.

That's it, have fun.

On a side note now is also the perfect time to do a flush of the cooling system, if you have not done one in the recent past. It also may be time to update those hoses and serpentine belt.

[white01]

thank you for the write up!! when i did ..i flushed the cooling system out for a very long time...it got new coolant..new gates 190 degree thermo..new gates water pump(put oring grease on the oring so that it would swell)..new gates upper and lower rad. hoses...new gates belt..new gates idler arm setup...nothings better than new...

[hd99fxr3]

thank you for the write up!! when i did ..i flushed the cooling system out for a very long time...it got new coolant..new gates 190 degree thermo..new gates water pump(put oring grease on the oring so that it would swell)..new gates upper and lower rad. hoses...new gates belt..new gates idler arm setup...nothings better than new...

I did all that about 6 or 8 weeks ago. So I actually drained perfectly good coolant and replaced it with new, just to make double sure, I had all the old,old coolant out. $40 for coolant is cheap insurance.

[c farmer]

All I do is remove the belt and the air box and you can get right in there at it.

[dorkweed]

All I do is remove the belt and the air box and you can get right in there at it.

That's what I've heard and read also on the various forums.........................I've got 171,000 miles on the OEM pump!!!! Probably jinxed myself now!!!

[c farmer]

That's what I've heard and read also on the various forums.........................I've got 171,000 miles on the OEM pump!!!! Probably jinxed myself now!!!

Your way over due. Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

[white01]

very cheap and nothing is better than new!

[hd99fxr3]

All I do is remove the belt and the air box and you can get right in there at it.

What year truck you have? I can see it on the 2nd gens, but am doubtful that would work on my '06.

- - - Updated - - -

very cheap and nothing is better than new!

$47 at NAPA and no core charge.

[c farmer]

What year truck you have? I can see it on the 2nd gens, but am doubtful that would work on my '06.

- - - Updated - - -

$47 at NAPA and no core charge.

I do all trucks that way. I work at a dealer and have done many 4th gens with all the garbage that the 6.7l has.

[x50v]

:smart:How many miles did you get on your water pump before you had to replace it?thanks for all the good info

[hd99fxr3]

:smart:How many miles did you get on your water pump before you had to replace it? thanks for all the good info

Had 91k on the clock, but judging by the bolt heads holding the pump on, it had been changed before.

[x50v]

Had 91k on the clock, but judging by the bolt heads holding the pump on, it had been changed before.

Sounds like our water pumps don't last too long? I have 64,000 miles on my 06

[dorkweed]

Sounds like our water pumps don't last too long? I have 64,000 miles on my 06

171,5xx miles on Mighty Whitey with the OEM water pump!! Don't know if'n it matters, but I do change out coolant every 2 years or about 50,000 miles.

[hd99fxr3]

171,5xx miles on Mighty Whitey with the OEM water pump!! Don't know if'n it matters, but I do change out coolant every 2 years or about 50,000 miles.

I'm pretty sure it's a coolant issue PO had run just regular green coolant in it. I flushed and changed fluid after I bought it, And again when I replaced the pump.

[dorkweed]

I'm pretty sure it's a coolant issue PO had run just regular green coolant in it. I flushed and changed fluid after I bought it, And again when I replaced the pump.

I've not heard of a 3rd gen with "green coolant" yet!!! I searched long and hard for the aproprieate coolant when I first bought my "04.5. Zerex in the gold bottle was the only one from the first change and until the last. It sure ain't green..........like the GM coolants.........and it ain't cheep either!!! The Zerex in the gold bottle is HOAT rated.........which is a necessity for 3rd gens!!!!

[x50v]

I've not heard of a 3rd gen with "green coolant" yet!!! I searched long and hard for the aproprieate coolant when I first bought my "04.5. Zerex in the gold bottle was the only one from the first change and until the last. It sure ain't green..........like the GM coolants.........and it ain't cheep either!!! The Zerex in the gold bottle is HOAT rated.........which is a necessity for 3rd gens!!!!

thanks to all I had better change mine. ;-}

[hd99fxr3]

I've not heard of a 3rd gen with "green coolant" yet!!! I searched long and hard for the aproprieate coolant when I first bought my "04.5. Zerex in the gold bottle was the only one from the first change and until the last. It sure ain't green..........like the GM coolants.........and it ain't cheep either!!! The Zerex in the gold bottle is HOAT rated.........which is a necessity for 3rd gens!!!!

I'm running the ZEREX G-05 as well. Like you I looked for awhile and the only one that is HOAT technoligy is the ZEREX in the Gold bottle. Paid $15.99 in jug at NAPA.

[AH64ID]

Great write-up. I have a couple things to add. Based on the size of this cooling system, and the amount the drains from the radiator you won't get a complete flush by just draining the radiator. Only about 2/3 of the coolant drains when you open the bottom of the radiator. Based on the cost of G05, I would do a full flush and be done with it for another 150K, or 5 years. If you had recently done a flush then this works perfect. Here is a write-up I did on a full flush. It takes about 20 gallons of distilled and 4 gallons of G05. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1301-Coolant-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

[hd99fxr3]

Great write-up. I have a couple things to add. Based on the size of this cooling system, and the amount the drains from the radiator you won't get a complete flush by just draining the radiator. Only about 2/3 of the coolant drains when you open the bottom of the radiator. Based on the cost of G05, I would do a full flush and be done with it for another 150K, or 5 years. If you had recently done a flush then this works perfect. Here is a write-up I did on a full flush. It takes about 20 gallons of distilled and 4 gallons of G05. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1301-Coolant-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

John, I did a full flush 2 or three months prior to doing the water pump. I had put a new thermostst in at that time. So i just needed to replace what I had lost.

[AH64ID]

Gotcha. I am thinking about doing my water pump at 100K, just for preventative measures.