Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Mopar1973Man

New High Idle Video

Recommended Posts

One of these days I will get a common rail and get twice as many gauges as you lol. Very incredible video. I'm gonna have to get a gauge for the IAT, that is just too neat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Mopar Man, I had the dealer enable my high idle on my 01 dodge cummins. I tried starting it this morning at 25 degrees F and high idle did not kick in. It was my understanding that any temp under 30 degrees would kick in high idle. The truck was not plugged in and sat for a couple days so i know it was below 30. Would the intake heaters running cause this to not kick in????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Correct... Like my start was at 22*F outside and the grid heaters kicked it up to 40*F in the manifold so it would never start high idle till it was colder yet... Typically its got to be about 15-20*F to get high idle and 0-5*F to get 3 cylinder high idle. Like tonight its 25*F here in Idaho I know my high idle will not start unless I manually kick the switches...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like he shows in the video there is a good chance that the grid heaters are keeping your air intake temperature too high to enable the high idle. Build one of Mopar1973Man's foolers and you can enable it when you feel like.**edit - Looks like Mopar1973Man beat me too it lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice video... can u give some comparison on EGT... what was it @ idle,high idle, and was that high+3 cylinder(or just 3 cylinder)

Sure... Normal Idle Cold ----------------------- 200*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 250*F (0% Load) High 6 Cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 400*F (1% Load) High 3 Cylinder Idle -------------------- 450*F (10-15% Load) high 3 cylinder Idle with Exhaust Brake - 850*F (33% Load) Shaocker how loading the engine help create heat...:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

K thanks. I just got the dealer to enable high idle and its finally getting below 30 for the first time since. Then when i started the truck up and it didnt work i was really upset. Thanks for the info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would love to have a setup where i could manually start high idle. Ive looked at your drawings for hooking it up and that is way over my head!:smile:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of the basic parts you need...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=10

IAT Mode switch on the left. ECT fooler and the right.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=9

Completed setup of switches...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=11

Simple version...

The ECT plug (The lead going back to the ECM) need to wired to the center lugs of the switch.

The ECT sensor (The lead going to the sensor) gets wired to the left lugs.

The ECT fooler resistor get soldered to the right lugs.

The IAT Plug (The lead going back to the ECM) gets wired to the IAT fooler switch center lugs

The IAT sensor (The lead going to the sensor) gets wired to the left lugs.

The right lugs gets a pair of leads going to the IAT mode switch center lugs. (2nd pic left switch)

Edited by Mopar1973Man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So i went out his morning and started my truck. 15 degrees outside and still no high idle. Im no sure if the dealer even enabled the software. Im gonna try putting the resistor in the sensor this weekend to see if it will kick in that way. Your Forced high idle set up looks better and better all the time lol. Need to make sure the software is enabled though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The resistor in the plug is the most easiest way to test to see if high idle is present on a truck and only takes about 2 minutes to tell... I hate to say it but most likely the dealer didn't enable it, or you got a block heater plugged in or the IAT sensor is not working right...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope wasn't plugged in im at school right now and have no place to plug it in. Yea im gonna try the resistor this weekend. What size resistor is it and where do i find the IAT plug at?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got sort of the same problem as Rapiscrap144. I actually had the Dodge dealer flash the high idle. The truck Idled up like it was supposed to. Then I changed tuner modes with my superchip and it quit working.

So, I changed it back to stock mode and it didn't work.

I called Superchips and they say if the high idle was on the truck it would save it and it would still be on it.

So, I just did the resistor trick in both stock mode and with the superchip installed and neither one works.

Any ideas........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have heard and know of of sooooo many stories of superchips screwing up ecms and leaving residue programming issues so as that other programmers will not work after a sc programmer had been used, the only way to overcome it is to reflash ECM at the dealership.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Mike, quick question comment. :bulb:When you solder the diodes to the switch did you "Heat Sink" them. Diodes are really sensative to heat and when you solder them you should heat sink them to prevent heat related damage to the innards of them. Heat sink is a term used to describe for example clamping a small vise grip or some other clamping device to the wire between the diode and solder area to absorb and disipate the heat before it transfers up the wire into the diode elemnt itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ummmm... No diodes in the setup... All resistors... Usually a alligator clip or such works good at that though... But after I build them I normally would take my DVM and stick it in the ECM plug and toggle the switch and see what the resistor value is... Then in the other position it should be a dead short between plug to plug... So on the ECT fooler you should see 3.3K ohms and dead short... And then on the IAT you should see 33K ohms and 56K ohm then dead short... The dead short is normal basically passing back to the sensor as normal... It the open circuits that are a problem and tend to throw codes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ummmm... No diodes in the setup... All resistors... Usually a alligator clip or such works good at that though.

:oMy bad............... but its still a good idea for resistors also, I agree theclipis about the easiest if you actually have one handy when you need it:wow:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep just what i was afraid of. The dealer did not pull up the correct TSB. The dealer flashed TSB 18-014-01. Not sure where he got this from???? Why is it so hard for dealers to find out about this and why do none of the seem to know what i am talking about????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is why I normally tell everyone to print the TSB off my web site and take it to the dealer with them for some reason most dealers are book smart to common problems but the odd ball stuff still throws them... As a matter of fact my dealer wouldn't do the flash for high idle for me...:eek: TSB for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



×