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Ummmm... No diodes in the setup... All resistors... Usually a alligator clip or such works good at that though... But after I build them I normally would take my DVM and stick it in the ECM plug and toggle the switch and see what the resistor value is... Then in the other position it should be a dead short between plug to plug... So on the ECT fooler you should see 3.3K ohms and dead short... And then on the IAT you should see 33K ohms and 56K ohm then dead short... The dead short is normal basically passing back to the sensor as normal... It the open circuits that are a problem and tend to throw codes.

Ummmm... No diodes in the setup... All resistors... Usually a alligator clip or such works good at that though.

:oMy bad............... but its still a good idea for resistors also, I agree theclipis about the easiest if you actually have one handy when you need it:wow:

Yep just what i was afraid of. The dealer did not pull up the correct TSB. The dealer flashed TSB 18-014-01. Not sure where he got this from???? Why is it so hard for dealers to find out about this and why do none of the seem to know what i am talking about????

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This is why I normally tell everyone to print the TSB off my web site and take it to the dealer with them for some reason most dealers are book smart to common problems but the odd ball stuff still throws them... As a matter of fact my dealer wouldn't do the flash for high idle for me...:eek: TSB for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

Yea i got it printed out and am gonna go back down and have them fix it. Whats the reason most wont do the flash???

When I worked at the dealer one flash is just like any other. The device prompts you for the steps and away you go no big deal. I was using the mds and the hand held not sure if they still use that setup.