Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

tc lock/inlock issues


Recommended Posts

I would like to try taking out the alternator fuse just to see if it helps, can you tell me where the fuse is for sure so i dont take out the wrong one (i know that sounds stupid) I just want to make sure i dont take out a relay or something

- - - Updated - - -

I was also wondering where the alternator diode is, since it said the guy changed the alternator and it didn't fix it i figured the diode isnt in the alternator

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rooster,Can't tell exactly what year truck you have, but the PCM provides voltage regulation (through the field and source from the "generator", ACCORDING to the FSM the capacitor and the diodes are in the "generator". The "fuse" is a 140 amp fuse in the PDC (power distribution center) It is a large one that IIRC is screwed in and in a big green or red box. I think the lid shows it as FUSE GEN.HTHHag

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol,(sorry if I missed the sig. I swear it wasn't there earlier, sorry about that.) 99 should be PCM regulated.)It is what the factory manual calls the alternator. We are getting really technical, but it is truly a generator (an alternator is a special form of generator.) :) I would look right on the serpentine belt where the alternator would normally be.Hag

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cool, alternator, got it. the thing is I just go the tranny rebuilt, they change a ton of stuff and it cost me a LOAD of cash, the guy said its still unlocking at a light pedal at around 40mph, he suggested changing all the battery cables and the TPS (not him changing it he only does trannys). I drove it all around today and i think it may have done it once and it only lasts for maybe a second. I tried doing the alernator diode testing thing to check for AC feedback and i got 30, but i also got 30 on my jeep and its fine, and im not sure if i take the fuse out, because the unlocking is so subtle, ill be able to tell if it worked. Im not sure what to do now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

I'm finding out that cheap DVM's don't test out the AC side very well. If you have Fluke DVM it should read less than 0.030 or so on AC scale but as for 30 VAC that would be considered a fail. You might consider having the alternator bench tested to be sure.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UveGtGuswBw

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i auctually borrowed a tester from work, (cuz mine is cheap and wasnt working well on the ac like you said), When I tested AC it was spiking .065 or so. I took the fuse out and ran it and it really felt like the tc didnt unlock. Im gonna put the fuse back in and run it tomorrow and see if it unlocks and if it does i guess i"ll take the fuse back out and run it and see if it makes the tc quick unlocking. If it does im getting a new alternator...Im pretty sure already it is the alternator and im probabbly just going to get one and eat the $200, ive already got enough money in this truck to buy me a really nice old Chevy LOL.As far as having it bench tested I dont know of any where local that does that, im polluted with autozones and stuff around me and when i asked them if they could check diodes they looked like i was speaking a different language. Im trying to find a place to buy an alternator other then autozone, something that isnt cheap china crap, but i dont want to go to a dealer either cuz their mark up is so high and they and i dont want them to test it cuz they charge a million dollars to "run diagnostics" and they want to do it on the whole truck and half the time they cant figure out whats wrong any way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a Fluke E 335. $ 200.00 meter. It read 3 volts. BUT, the 335 is for testing high voltage. Borrowed a OTC meter designed for auto use and it read .16 volt ac. The cheap meter term does not always apply. This is a great test though. If you had a completely shorted diode(passes current both ways), I think it would also cause a drain on the battery. On my truck, I removed and refurbished all grounds. None looked bad so I wrapped the ground that runs next to the alternator with foil tape and repositioned it out of the loom over the alternator bracket. Problem solved. Fixed another truck since then. It definately had a loose ground lug on the right battery. Foil wrapped and moved the ground cable over the alt just in case. That problem also solved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...