100 watt bumper mounted driving lights

[joecool911]

You guys see anything wrong with running the trip wire for the relay from a tap connector on the bright lights wire hot wire? I've got all the parts, but have not wired it up yet.

[Wild and Free]

With the new LED technology putting out way more light at 1/4 the watts than 100 watt lights why run old school lights that draw that much power? The price and technology of LED lights have gotten great over the last year and keep getting better as more become available. LED is outperforming HID lights and have better life. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Default.asp http://www.amazon.com/Kolpin-Dually-LED-Lights-Pair/dp/B006OZFQ1I http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/kolpin-dually-led-lights-pair.aspx?a=920791 http://www.beckelectric.com/store/pc/FLOODLIGHT-LED-28W-10-50V-DC-SPOT-PHOENIX-PRODUCTS-MDF28LEDSP-329p420.htm I bought a set of these the last link I posted from work for 178 each before I found a lot of the same lights branded with different names cheaper from other sources I have found above, these lights are absolutely unbelievable.

[Mopar1973Man]

My method of doing it...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0TfquTPNX8

[War Eagle]

With the new LED technology putting out way more light at 1/4 the watts than 100 watt lights why run old school lights that draw that much power? The price and technology of LED lights have gotten great over the last year and keep getting better as more become available. LED is outperforming HID lights and have better life. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Default.asp http://www.amazon.com/Kolpin-Dually-LED-Lights-Pair/dp/B006OZFQ1I http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/kolpin-dually-led-lights-pair.aspx?a=920791 http://www.beckelectric.com/store/pc/FLOODLIGHT-LED-28W-10-50V-DC-SPOT-PHOENIX-PRODUCTS-MDF28LEDSP-329p420.htm I bought a set of these the last link I posted from work for 178 each before I found a lot of the same lights branded with different names cheaper from other sources I have found above, these lights are absolutely unbelievable.

X2. The LED technology is great. I use them as landing and taxi lights and as navigation lights also. Very bright and very lower power and very long life. Here is another source where the lumens are even higher and the price is cheaper yet. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151007503879?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[joecool911]

I'm thinking of using Michaels wiring method. But use fog lights in the bumper as came factory in some of the trucks (not mine). I like the idea of having the driving lights hidden and more protected behind the grill. So Michael, with your setup, the fog and driving lights come on independently? Driving lights come on with high beams and fog lights on low beam? Dash switch activates, otherwise you get just original headlights? Did you just make the video? I didn't see it on youtubes list if your videos. Not sure I can find LED's in fog lamps with the OEM style mounts. I'm a fan of LED technology in general, but I can't wrap my head around how many lumens it would take to equal 100 watt driving lights.

[Mopar1973Man]

The reason I went with flood light (sealed beams) is because out here in Idaho they use a lot of gravel on the highway and then traveling dirt roads you always end up with a broken lens on your fog lights. So if you have fancy PIAA's or such in about a year or so you'll end up with one broken from a rock. Then short time the rest of the light is ruined. With the NAPA sealed beams no biggy. $18 buck pick up another and move on. So the LED technology might be great but hopefully the lens technology is better than glass lens because once you break those it game over and your hard earned money is down the drain.

[Wild and Free]

Joecool and Mike you both need to spend some time reading through the site I posted in my last thread but since you both overlooked it, I will post it again, it explains in detail and disproves what you both are trying to say. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Default.asp I can say from running these that there is no sealed beam that will come close to the performance and amount of light that is put out there. This site has tons of info on it and takes some time to digest but well worth the time to learn. It is more about light beam control than the actual lumens these are bright and controlled lights. I have the Phoenix 6 led bulb lights like I posted in my last post as well for reference to what I am talking about. The ones I have shine out just a bit farther than the high beams but have a pattern about 200 feet wide at that distance and it is a natural white light better than daylight almost. Not bad for 2 three inch square lights. They make many different styles of lights that work with any type of mount you want and even make custom mounts for Dodge fog light sockets. They make replacement lenses and protective lenses for the lights as well amd are extremely tough as the videos on the site demonstrate.

[joecool911]

Initial impressions;Expensive! $400 for a pair of driving lights. Then I need fog lights. They list mounts for 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks, but not second. Major investment. Probably 3 times my ability to rationalize.

[Wild and Free]

Initial impressions; Expensive! $400 for a pair of driving lights. Then I need fog lights. They list mounts for 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks, but not second. Major investment. Probably 3 times my ability to rationalize.

I used to think the same thing but when we got these lights on our mine equipment at work and seeing the abuse they take and the light they put out I figured it was a one and only investment in a light that will last throughout my lifetime of buying lights, I mounted mine on magnets because I have a ranch hand on both rigs and I wired a switch into both with a connector out the front so it takes a minute to swap the pair from one rig to another. Wasn't but a year ago lites like these were around 400 each now at 150 ish they are a bargain, had I not seen them in person and how durable and great they are I would have never bought them either based on someones word alone. I hear ya. But I would never in a million years go back to a halogen or any other bulb that will burn out and draw 4 times as much power and throw less light. I am thinking about getting some for my pontoon and a light bar of some sort for my rigs to, too many choices, I need to call them and get an idea what choice would be best for what I am looking for.

[Mopar1973Man]

Initial impressions; Expensive! $400 for a pair of driving lights. Then I need fog lights. They list mounts for 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks, but not second. Major investment. Probably 3 times my ability to rationalize.

That's my problem right now. I've been watching the LED craze for a while even for the RV interior lighting. But they are so expensive for small amount of return right now. Like right now if I was to rebuild my light system completely 4 new bulbs is $72 buck and 2 relays are $22 bucks. So for the cost of 1 LED light I can still build a sealed beam setup that is just as bright for the most part. I know LED's use way less power. Less load on the alternator/batteries. Some LED's are awesome bright. Just the price is way too high.

[joecool911]

My method of doing it...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0TfquTPNX8

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5163[/ATTACH]

So, are you showing the connection points on the fuse box and adding relays somewhere else? With the kind of connector you used at the hi/low connection, there is no relay in the position, but you're using a connector at the trailer relay that allows the relay to be maintained there?

[Mopar1973Man]

So, are you showing the connection points on the fuse box and adding relays somewhere else? With the kind of connector you used at the hi/low connection, there is no relay in the position, but you're using a connector at the trailer relay that allows the relay to be maintained there?

What I do is gain my on/off trigger from the trailer relay. That leg becomes hot (+12V) in either parking light position or headlight position. So this triggers on the fog lamps anytime the headlight switch is in any ON position. As for the fog lamp socket that particular pin happens to be +12V when on low beam and 0 Volts on high beam so this provides toggle for hi/lo position fog lamps which follows most traffic laws of only having 4 lights lit while on the highway. So there is 2 headlights and 2 fog lamps which follow the dimmer switch and follow the headlight mode without adding more switches. If the headlight where last on hi beam and you switch to parking lamps then automatically the fog lamps drop to lo beam mode because of the fog lamp lead. The only added switch I placed in the system is to disable the fog lamps all together so you could have true just parking lamp mode.

[joecool911]

Seems a lot easier than converting to sport lights and you've got a lot of flexibility compared to the sport lights.Thanks Michael! It's all clear to me now. Just looking for decent lights now. Nice to be able to add fog and driving lights with adding only one switch. Only about 14.5 amps for 200 watts of driving lights.

[joecool911]

Well, I got 2 55 watt Hella driving lights. They are only 2.84" deep, but insufficient room behind the grill for 4 lights due to the number of cooling units. I could get 2 back there. But then there is the OEM grill that has a horizontal faux bar running right through the middle, which would impede light from behind. So I'm going to mount 2 driving lights and 2 fog lights on the bumper. Ive spent quite a bit of time reading about relays. I understand them now and also understand the concepts behind Michael's driving/fog wiring design. I've also verified that the connection points in the power distribution box supplies power as described. Should work great! Thanks!

[Reg02]

Mopar1973man,Just wondering. I'm wiring up a set of hella driving lights and want them to only to come on with the high beams. I'm not big with electrical so I don't really under stand your method for driving/fog lights. will your method work for this?thanks Reg,

[joecool911]

I'm not mike, but it should work fine. If you add the switch to the dash as shown, you can cancel the driving lights from coming on. I spent some time reading about relays. Have a much better understanding now. They are simply a low amp switch that will control high amp load.

[Reg02]

Ok I will give it a shot tomorrow. How did you end up wiring your lights? I just want the lights to be activated by a switch, then when I turn on high beams they come and when switch back to low beams they do out. I just don't see how Mopar Mans method will do this? not trying to question it just don't under stand how it works.

[joecool911]

I believe that you'd just ground that switch wire without a switch.

[jdeng]

I went to some trouble to evaluate LEDs versus halogens for a piece of equipment we are building.  LEDs are getting there, but if you compare the actual light output per dollar, they are a long way off, still. 

 

I was looking at decent stuff but not extravagant like PIAA--ABL, Hella, Hobbs, Speaker, etc.  Best bang/buck inmho is a well-designed halogen.  Another 5 years or so, and LEDs will be there.

 

Most of the manufacturers of lights are pushing LEDs real hard, and their catalogs and websites are deliberately misleading--most will give either no light output numbers, or use lumens for one type and something else for LED.  They don't seem to want you to directly compare them.

[Mopar1973Man]

The only problem with any flood or fog light is check and see if the lens is replaceable and how much. I've had several high dollar lighting systems over the years and watch my money go down the drain as soon as a rock shatters the lens out of the lights. I've now flopped over to cheap seal beam bulbs they are still 100w bulb and very bright but only $18 to $22 to replace the entire bulb.

 

I've seen grown men cry when they take a truck offroad and crush a expensive set of PIAA's or LightForce's.