oscillation when braking

[Lone Watie]

I've noticed that when I apply the brakes when coming to a stop that my steering wheel will oscillate slightly at slow speeds as I decelerate. Any ideas where I might start with something like this?

[98whitelightnin]

Sounds like warped rotors to me.

[Lone Watie]

Sounds like warped rotors to me.

I was wondering about that, myself, but the rotors are fairly new (2008). It definitely is translating into the steering wheel, though. I'll check rotors when I install my fuel pump, and check the brake pads, too.

[Gamble]

It only takes one good hard stop in the cold rain/snow to heat up & cool down rotors this warping them. You could probably have them turned and get em back to good though.

[cajflynn]

New in 2008? That was 5 years ago. Mine don't last a year.

[Mopar1973Man]

New in 2008? That was 5 years ago. Mine don't last a year.

Maybe because of the miles you put down. But even mine lasted till 185K miles and 10 years. (20K a year roughly)

[Lone Watie]

Well, could have them checked, but don't I have to pull the whole hub to get them off a 99. Or do I have it backwards, the rotor needs to come off to pull the hub?

[diesel4life]

Hub and rotor are pressed together. You will have to remove the big axle nut in the center, remove the caliper, then remove the 4 hub bolts from the back side. They are a 12 point 9/16 socket and the big axle nut is metric but an inch and three quarter will work. If the hub has been in there for a long time it may be rusted in there and will require a puller that you should be able to rent from AutoZone or somewhere similar. Once everything is apart you will have to press the wheel studs out to separate the rotor and hub. One other thing you may want to look at while your in that far is axle u joints. Mine felt fine driving down the road but when I pulled the shafts out to inspect them (I was in there because I had a warped rotor as well) the joints were very stiff when I articulated them by hand. I put new joints in and it really freed up the rolling resistance of the front end when spinning the hub by hand. They're fairly inexpensive compared to the time it takes to get in there to do them. Also make sure your rear brakes are functioning and properly adjusted, if they're not than your front brakes will be taxed more to make up for the lack of rears.

[Lone Watie]

I've had the left front assembly off before when my bearing went, so not looking forward to this, but it will have to be done. Fortunately, I found a nice puller at a pawn shop that's big enough to handle the task. Might as well inspect those bearings again while I'm at it. I only had to change the front left 3 years ago. That was a pain in the rear, to say the least.

- - - Updated - - -

So, moving past the possibility of warped rotors, what else might cause this issue? Steering damper? Something in the steering box itself?

[Gamble]

Based on what your telling us, I really don't think there is anything else that would cause it. Easy resolve is to take out the answer/variable we are giving you. If you are rolling 30mph and put on the brakes in a consistent manner and you get oscillation, perform the same speed check, but do a complete roll stop, no braking at all and if it does not do it, its the rotors, if it does we need to search elsewhere. You may even be able to do it from a 15-20mph roll, if your cramped for an open area to roll stop on.

[Lone Watie]

Sometimes the easiest way to diagnose is the most elusive. That's a good idea on the complete roll stop; I'll give it a try today if I go anywhere. Guess was just hoping for something other than having to pull those hubs off . Thanks for the suggestion.