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Fuel pressure gauge install with Larry B's banjo bolt


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I was looking on Larry B's website last week and saw the banjo bolt with internal snubber that they have and since I hadn't installed my fuel pressure gauge in my new truck yet I went ahead and got one of them and installed it tonight. Its a 12mm banjo bolt with 1/8th NPT threads in the top and has a .0006 in. pinhole acting as the snubber. http://www.fostertruck.com/gauge-snubber-drilled-banjo-bolt-combo.html post-10366-138698202729_thumb.jpg On the 12v's it replaces the banjo bolt that has the bleed screw on top of it on the fuel filter housing. Then you just spin your pressure gauge sender down in and hook it all up. :thumb1: Everything installed: post-10366-138698202747_thumb.jpg checked my pressure at idle and it was 13psi and at WOT I never saw it drop below 14psi. post-10366-138698202757_thumb.jpg I know since I have the P-pump I don't really need to monitor my fuel pressure like the VP44 guys do but I have the pressure gauge so I figured I would use it. I plan on going to the hardware store and getting a new spring for my overflow valve to get my pressure up in the 20psi range at idle but first I'm gonna see what happens after a filter change since it didn't look that good when I had it off to change my fuel return line last week.

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If you've got the original style OFV with the little bolt in it, then just take it out, pull the spring out, stretch it a little bit. Put a ball-point pen spring in the center, cut it to same length as the stretched spring, and put it all back together. you'll have 30+psi fuel pressure. mine's just shy of 40psi.

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The spec is to not let it get under 25psi under a load. Nothing really happens under that but you have low power issues. The upper end spec is to not go over 45psi. I think the fuel filter housing cracks above that. I run around 25-35psi. 14 psi is very low and is usually caused by the overflow valve, they wear out a lot. Crap you already plan on doing this, I can't read. :thumb1:

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Lately, I've noticed my FPG will often 'hammer', even with the needle valve barely cracked open. If I close it down any more, it'll not register on the gauge.. weird. This started a couple weeks ago, but still stays around 30-35psi regardless of engine load.

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Mine is similar...I still see a small fluctuation in the needle, very minimal, but it's still there...needle valve is tightened as far as I can go without actually cutting off the flow. I know if I pushed the test fitting back further from the pump, I could dampen quite a bit of the pulses, but since I've got a tapped feed fitting going into the pump itself, I can't afford to get the hose and fittings right now to fix it. I'm sure the pulses from the P7100 aren't helping any, as stock, it feeds it in from the sides, and flows through the passages created by the plungers in the pump as they lift and close. That same feeding that causes the pulses to the FP gauges is the same reason why I chose to dual feed my pump, from the front and the side, in order to help keep from starving the front two cylinders of the pump.

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