Squeak - Rotational high pitch

[Tomassend]

So I'm driving down the road today, and noticed a rotational squeak. So I get gas and the noise kind of goes away once I get up to speed you don't like 30 miles an hour on back roads but then next to like cement wall I can hear it if I give some more gas. If I'm at a stop sign and I make a left turn and get gas through the left turn this week gets louder as I'm going to the turn.I recently had the exhaust done but I don't think it's the exhaust. I thought maybe the pipe was squeaking or something weird like that, but based on what I'm encountering I think the initial signs point to u-joint but I'm okay with being talked out of that assumption.As always all your input and help is appreciated, 2006 space Dodge ram 2500 diesel.Thank you,Dave Tomassen

[dorkweed]

Could be a U-joint. Could be a bearing. Could be something on the brake shoe also.More info if possible would be great.

[Tomassend]

I have noticed the noise is it's loudest at lower speeds. If placed in drive (auto) and not accelerating the noise is it's loudest. There are times that a mild clinking noise is also heard.......When putting it in reverse and creeping backward the noise is also very prominent. This is another reason I feel the u joint is the culprit.One up to speed the noise is reduced substantially and cannot really be detected. It can be picked up if you're by a median on the roadway at higher speeds but it's subtle.I don't think it's a bearing, it is not a rotational wobbly grinding noise,,.... Which is a lower grunty noise in my past experience.Let me know if I am missing anything,Dave

[diesel4life]

Any vibrations at speed? Do you feel any shaking in the steering wheel? Is it worse or better when you apply the brakes? Really the only way to check a u joint is by disconnecting the driveshaft and check each joint individually by rotating by hand. Any slop or stiff spots is a good indication. Another way to check (but not as accurate) if you have an infrared temp gun after taking a drive start taking temp readings at the suspect areas. You can also feel by hand and get a good idea but it wont be as accurate. If one wheel is considerably hotter than the rest, or one universal is hotter than the others, you've probably found your culprit.

[angus]

I have noticed the noise is it's loudest at lower speeds. If placed in drive (auto) and not accelerating the noise is it's loudest. There are times that a mild clinking noise is also heard....... When putting it in reverse and creeping backward the noise is also very prominent. This is another reason I feel the u joint is the culprit. One up to speed the noise is reduced substantially and cannot really be detected. It can be picked up if you're by a median on the roadway at higher speeds but it's subtle. I don't think it's a bearing, it is not a rotational wobbly grinding noise,,.... Which is a lower grunty noise in my past experience. Let me know if I am missing anything, Dave

I would suspect a dry ujoint to be the place to start, brakes, and wheel bearings could be the next things to check... I assume by your OP this is a two wheel drive truck??

[Tomassend]

So it sounds to me like were considering the squeaking noise to be a bearing inside the front wheels or you joint problem?In regards to the vibration question, I do notice a little bit of vibration among taking off getting into the 10 to 20 mile-per-hour speeds. But after about 20 mph the vibration seems to stop or not stop but go unnoticeable.The vibration is in the can of the truck and applying the brakes really doesn't do much except's bring the squeaking back when it starts getting into the lower speeds back in the 15's intense.With wheel bearing and I know the vibration does transfer into the steering wheel but I'm not seeing that type of experience while driving especially on slowing down it's only one speeding up.

[joecool911]

What about something simple like a disc brake backing plate that's contacting the rotor?

[sngsht]

A wear indicator on a worn brake pad will sound similar also, and a caliper that's binding will cause a vibration at lower speeds also. That's a easy thing to check , and eliminate .

[diesel4life]

So it sounds to me like were considering the squeaking noise to be a bearing inside the front wheels or you joint problem? In regards to the vibration question, I do notice a little bit of vibration among taking off getting into the 10 to 20 mile-per-hour speeds. But after about 20 mph the vibration seems to stop or not stop but go unnoticeable. The vibration is in the can of the truck and applying the brakes really doesn't do much except's bring the squeaking back when it starts getting into the lower speeds back in the 15's intense. With wheel bearing and I know the vibration does transfer into the steering wheel but I'm not seeing that type of experience while driving especially on slowing down it's only one speeding up.

Since you notice a vibration and are pretty sure it is coming from the rear, the driveshaft would be a good place to start. Also carefully inspect the carrier bearing (if you have a 2 piece driveshaft)

[LiveOak]

My money is on the driveline universal joints. Last year the wife's truck did the EXACT same thing when I took it for a test drive after performing some maintenance. I pulled into the driveway, crawled under the truck and gave the aft driveshaft a shake and it was sloppy loose. So bad that I could not drive it to the drive shaft shop. I pulled the entire driveshaft assembly and took it to a driveshaft repair place in Muscle Shoals where I had them replace ALL the universal joints in BOTH driveshaft sections (her truck is a long bed), the driveshaft hangar bearing with ALL Spicer components, and spin balance the entire driveshaft assembly. I went with the non-greasable universal joints because they are much stronger. The universal joints that were removed were the original OEM joints that were the non'greasable type. They lasted about 150,000 miles. I doubt we will put that many miles on this truck again if we keep it indefinitely so the non-geasable universal joints are the way to go in my opinion.

[Tomassend]

Looks like the issue is in fact the U-joint.I just bought the truck and it has 135,000 miles on it. I have put 5K on it myself with a 2300 lb slide in truck camper in the back AND do all mountain driving living in Washington State.I don't see it being a big deal that it went out, but I will likely replace all 3 since the axle is out and they are all there.Any recommendations on a strong U-joint? The camper lives in the back, it's from 1979 and we use it every weekend to ski, snowmobile, and mountain bike.My GF is actually building up a bike right now, attached is a photo. Dave

[diesel4life]

I like the Spicer joints and have typically had good results with them, although I just had one fail at less than 40k miles. What kind of bike is that? I've got an old Cannondale F500. Head shock, rigid tail. it's ancient now compared to the stuff that's out there now. I bought it back in the mid to late 90's, it was a top of the line bike then, paid around a grand for the frame IIRC. I was in Wyoming at the time, ran lots of races. It was common for me to average 40 to 50 miles in a day and more on a good ride. Now I just putt around with the kids.

[LiveOak]

Spicer is what I would go with. The solid non-greasable u-joints are the strongest.

[Tomassend]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll go with the Spicers.The bike is a Transition Bandit. They have short chain stays and just rally through terrain.Dave