A clever RV rain gutter...

[flagmanruss]

It's been a while since I drilled the additional drain holes. I note on the earlier thread they are 3/16". As you suggest, they were started perpendicular to get the drill going then angled up. I can insert the drill again & wiggle fore & aft to enlarge the holes. The serious flooding occurs at the rear sliders or I should more accurately say behind the front corner of the fixed panel of the sliding assembly. If it's raining, on naturally expects the windows to be closed or nearly so. The moveable panel being closed covers the drains in that part (aft) of the track. The forward (and down slope) part of the track is exposed. I think that additional drainage in the front section is a good idea. Additional holes could be drilled or even connected... by drilling or sawing or filing or Dremel. It's kind of a belt plus suspenders approach. A rain diverter plus increased drainage. Having to sponge up a flood for hours really sorks so it's worth the extra steps. In the years we've been doing these 10-12 day trips, we've never had one without some rain. We've encountered some historic storms.

[JAG1]

Ah yes a Dremel. That would be something for me for Christmas. I've been doing too many things the hard way it seems.I will take a closer look at my windows this weekend and report back. It seems mine drain out all the slots, even below the fixed glass panel.

[flagmanruss]

It drains... just not enough... I'd be lost with out my Dremel. Buy a full sized one not a mini-moto like harbor freight offers.

[JAG1]

It drains... just not enough... I'd be lost with out my Dremel. Buy a full sized one not a mini-moto like harbor freight offers.

Thank you on that........work always goes better with the better tools.

[flagmanruss]

I want to thank everyone for their useful thoughts on this... has helped me to think more clearly. You'll note I mentioned a gap at the end of the rubber track filler in my post above. Recall also that my trailer has been salvaged once before I got it according to the title. So it's not a virgin & all systems are suspected of being f*cked with until proven otherwise.As we've noted, the window frames, like the rest of the rig, had incorrect caulk used... seems like electrical dumdum to me. My guy did a lot of work on the caulk. But to return to the windows for a moment. Where the gap is in the rubber filler piece in the gutter. I am suspecting there should be a verticle rubber wiper on the edge of the fixed pane, extending into the 1/2" gap I noted. I don't know what effect this would have on the flooding but it might have restricted water flow forward in the gutter. I can't see in my pictures. When the rain stops... If someone could get pictures of the gutter & window overlap on a rig with virgin windows I'd appreciate it.

[JAG1]

I went out and studied my windows a bit closer. There is a black plastic channel the sliding glass rides on. I thought it was some fuzzy type of weather striping you commonly see but, it's just a black plastic channel inserted down inside the bottom window frame channel. It fits snug to the aluminum and covers the weep holes as if it would stop the water from being able to drain. Mine should be having the same problem of overflowing water inside until I dremel the plastic too. My windows must not be leaking and I know the weep holes are for letting out condensation onlyThis is amazing since I always assumed the weep holes were also drilled thru the plastic insert and not blocking the water. I'm going to need to drill the plastic too I guess.Russ, I don't think you should be having so much problem... The guy working on your rv should be taking out the windows and resetting them in the butyle rubber tape. It's not hard. I have done two of mine so far.... just use the blue tape to hold them from falling when you unscrew the trim/ retainer ring inside. I'm convinced yours should not be leaking this much and the little vynle siding J channels used for gutters are going to have little effect on solving your problem. I don't think you should have this same guy fix your rv again.I'm very sorry this happened to you but, I think your rv guy is just 'band aiding' your work instead of what needs to be done.Darn I wish you were close... I'd pull those windows in no time and have them reset for no charge. It's very easy to do.

[flagmanruss]

After what I paid for the roof, I'm not letting him off the hook on that. And the biggest problem area seems to have been fixed. This second needs to fixed as well so that it does not become a major problem. He didn't work on the windows themselves, just tried an experimental rain gutter on the side which seems to be working. I didn't ask him to work on the windows themselves. Recalling that this is a salvaged unit... the windows may have been tampered with previously. Might not even be original to this unit. They do appear correct fit in the openings.I think there might well be a nylon or plastic "wear strip" under the glass or supposed to be which is missing in my unit. I'd expect to see a honey comb of water channels to allow water to run out. Lacking this wear strip, allows the frame of the moveable pane to drop which might force the interior lip on the OEM drain slots closed or otherwise block them. I will stop by the RV place & see if I can examine some windows & talk to their window guy.

[JAG1]

P.S. When you reset those windows you'll need the byutle tape. Don't get the Home Depot stuff nor regular hardware stuff. Go to an HVAC supply house and get the more industrial stickier stuff. It really works and is much better.You'll need to clean off the old butyl rope off the windows and apply new. You need to do this inside a heated shop or on a warm day. This way the bytul rubber rope caulk will form to the siding profile and completely seal. As you tighten up the inside trim ring with the screws you should do it in an even fashion letting the bytle caulk squeeze out and conform to the outside/ around the window frame. Use a plastic scraper to remove the excess squeezed out so it won't scratch the siding. Caulk only the top of the window afterwards and that's all you should do except wait for the warmth to gradually squeeze out more of the bytle caulk around the window before caulking.

[IBMobile]

I get my byutle tap from the automotive paint supply store. It's the same stuff I use to in stall car windshields. You can get it in different thicknesses. For a trailer 1/4"-3/8" should do. The stuff gets real sticky and gooey when hot. I use small peaces of what's left over to hold bolts or nuts in sockets for those hard to get at places.

[flagmanruss]

With the monsoons we are experiencing, I added another piece of the vinyl siding J trim inverted as rain gutter over the side compartment access hatch.  The sealing of frame to body looks 'OK' but this is a repaired area (salvage unit) so I'm not real happy with it.  This is my first attempt at pushing the J piece into the siding seam.  I had to first slide a flat bar in there, then the vinyl went in pretty easy.  I couldn't find the flat bar I wanted...  I will find it or replace before the next one.  I cut the gutter 2" longer than the hatch it protects, once started, it tapped in with a block of wood & rubber mallet.  

We've not had troubles with the ones the shop installed...  I think this is a winner. 

 

The one over the big windows isn't as long as I'd like so I plan to replace that with longer & reuse that piece somewhere else.      

[flagmanruss]

I drove the car out front to the camper during a squall to watch the water run off.  She has a tarp on the roof over the ladder as that Left front corner is still iffy.  This style of rig has a normal height nose but a long ramping to the rear raised section...  so water pours over the front.  There is an OEM "rain gutter" on the side with a spout...  which you wouldn't think would get much water but it does & it runs down over the front compartment hatch. 

The J gutter I put in the other day works good...  water running forward & out of the gutter & down that front corner seam.  (Best keep that one up!) 

I watched the water run off the roof & over the upper clearance light & then a lower walkway light (came with bulb removed so no one can turn it on & forget.)  Not much water running off the Left side as is sits now but it has the same clearance light & several ladder standoffs (questionable, mounded with dumdum or putty of some kind).  Since the ladder ends on a roof rail & just had rood done...  I want to unscrew the ladder, flex it enough to clean the caulk & reseat with life caulk. 

 

After the rain, I measured all the openings to figure J gutters...  less those on hand.  I suspect the wndow gliders are shot, blocking full drain water flow...  compartment door frames need recaulking (some body damage / old repairs may make this impossible).  I will try to recaulk compartment hatch frames without full removal...   

 

Replacing everything would total the trailer...  oh, yes, there is some rot at the entry door...  Steps sagging...  where wood has failed...   It's unwise to spend too much on this.    

I am planning to replace the clearance lights with similar LEDs, and to caulk them with marine 'life caulk' which is underwater capable.