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kedlin88

Air dog 150 not working fuel relay clicking

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Ok, so my fuel pump started not to kick on when the key is turned on or when the engine is bumped. So I went to the troubleshooting guide on the Airdogs website. It said to put a jumper wire where the fuse goes to see if it will kick on. Well I jumped the fuse and all of a sudden the fuel pump started clicking on and off repeatedly. So I turned the key off. Replaced the fuse and it keeps doing it. Everytime I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump kicks on and off and there is a bunch of clicking noises in the fuse box in the engine compartment. It's like I'm turning the key on and off, on and off, on and offVery confused and don't know what to do. I tried scanning for codes, but the reader couldn't read anything, I assume because the fuse box was going crazy. Is it possible I jumped the wrong wires in the fuel relay and fried something? Thanks

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Does the truck start and run?The thing in the ECM will run a modulated power supply (50% duty cycle) at cranking sometimes at starter bumps too. So if the truck starts and runs I would check the ECM lift pump lead while running to see if the power is constant 12V.

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Does the truck start and run?

The thing in the ECM will run a modulated power supply (50% duty cycle) at cranking sometimes at starter bumps too. So if the truck starts and runs I would check the ECM lift pump lead while running to see if the power is constant 12V.

I did not try to start the truck. Was a little scared to while everything in the fuse box was going crazy

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Ok, here is a video of what its doing. This happens as soon as I turn the key to the on position(engine off). http://s922.photobucket.com/user/kedlin88/media/1999Dodge2500_zpscf3cc753.mp4.html

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UPDATE: Got her fixed. Thank the good lord above it wasn't the ECM. I went back over all the fuses and found the 40amp Engine Control fuse blown. I switched the fuse with the hazard lamps, turned the key over and pump primed, and no crazy noises out of the fuse box, and she started right up.

Thanks guys!!!

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Wow. I never though of that one but Thank you for telling us. Next time I'll make sure to pass that one around as an idea...

Yes I was very surprised. I thought I was going to be replacing the ECM. I will no longer be sticking wires where they don't belong.:banghead: The fuse looked good on the first inspection, but I went through them a second time, and that's when I found it bad. I had to take off the little clear cover and that's when I seen a burn spot and the wire inside was broke. Also, I did finally get my fuel pressure gauge hooked up this morning and I am seeing 14.5 PSI at idle and it drops down to 13 PSI at WOT. Is this an acceptable pressure? I believe I seen somewhere that you installed a washer in your pump to raise the pressure?? Thanks

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Yes. I've shimmed the regulator spring with a few proper sized washers and gained the pressure increase I needed.

I think I'm going to do that. I would like to at least see 16-17 psi at idle. What size/thickness washer did you use? Thanks

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A washer for a 1/4" bolt will have the right outside diameter as well. It will be a little smaller ID but not a concern because it's only a return line and not worried about flow. It's actually very close to the ID of the fitting.JR

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I got a 5/16" washer. Inner hole was perfect, but the OD of the washer was to big so I turned it down and it fit perfect. It bumped the idle to 19 and WOT to 17. Thanks guys.

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Ok, truck is still running good, no codes, but I still got some stuff to figure out. When I remove the alternator fuse, and turn the key to on, the fuel pump runs all the time. This cant be normal. So I stated tracing some wires and this is what I found. There is two black boxes on my firewall, a small one and a bigger one. The small one has a 20amp fuse in it and the bigger one is a relay. So the red wire that goes into the small box is connected to the main stud at the alternator. The yellow wire coming out of the smaller box, goes into the relay box. Then there are two groups of wires coming out of the relay box. One group runs down and connects to wire connection coming out of the main harness at the back of the engine. The other group of wires runs down the frame to my fuel pump. There is an extra wire connection at the fuel pump. Did someone rewire the pump? Any reasons why someone would do this?

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Sounds normal. That is how they are all wired. It should plug in to the vehicle side harness to trigger the relay (pictured) when the truck is started. The lead coming from the alt is the primary power source.JR

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Sounds normal. That is how they are all wired. It should plug in to the vehicle side harness to trigger the relay (pictured) when the truck is started. The lead coming from the alt is the primary power source. JR

Oh ok. As long as its normal. Just couldn't figure out why my pump will run while the alt fuse is pulled. What is the extra connection at the fuel pump? Thanks

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Got it. Just could figure out why my pump would run when the alt. fuse was pulled. What is the extra connection at the fuel pump?

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Ok, I think I still might have some issues with my ECM. I if its really cold out, my WTS light will come on and stay on for about 10 seconds like normal. If I let the truck run for only a minutes, shut it off, then turn the key to the on position, the WTS light will come on, but only for a bout two seconds. I wouldn't think in one minutes of running it would warm up enough to only come on for two seconds. But then, if you just cycle the key on and off sometimes the WTS light doesn't even come on at all. If the WTS light dose not come on, the pump will not prime. I did the instrument cluster test, and the WTS light did not come on in the test. I gave it about an hour and tired the test again and the WTS light still did not come on. But it will come on and stay on if the truck is cold. Also, my grid heaters do cycle on. I'm at a loss.

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Ok, I think I still might have some issues with my ECM. I if its really cold out, my WTS light will come on and stay on for about 10 seconds like normal. If I let the truck run for only a minutes, shut it off, then turn the key to the on position, the WTS light will come on, but only for a bout two seconds. I wouldn't think in one minutes of running it would warm up enough to only come on for two seconds. But then, if you just cycle the key on and off sometimes the WTS light doesn't even come on at all. If the WTS light dose not come on, the pump will not prime. I did the instrument cluster test, and the WTS light did not come on in the test. I gave it about an hour and tired the test again and the WTS light still did not come on. But it will come on and stay on if the truck is cold. Also, my grid heaters do cycle on. I'm at a loss.

When the WTS light doesn't light up the ECM did NOT boot up. Being the WTS light is not lighting showing there is a problem maybe. All other ECM function typically will be dead as well. (Lift pump, VP44, etc.)

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I think your overthinking stuff. The fuel pump will only run if needed when cycling the key. And if yourtuck is running good with no problems, than dont worry about it

I think your right! Truck starts in an instant, even with no WTS light sometimes. Runs and drive good with no codes, except the 13mpg which I haven't figured out. I'm going to quit stressing over it and enjoy driving it.:thumb1:

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When the WTS light doesn't light up the ECM did NOT boot up. Being the WTS light is not lighting showing there is a problem maybe. All other ECM function typically will be dead as well. (Lift pump, VP44, etc.)

Is it possible the only sometimes the ECM will not boot up. Its only once and a while that the WTS light will not light up. most of the time it dose though, just dosent stay on for long.

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It depends on what the intake temps are. If you start your truck for a minute, let the grid heaters cycle a few times, then shut it off and restart it the wts light is not going to stay on as long as before because the intake temps are still warm. Is there an issue with the way the truck is running?JR

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It depends on what the intake temps are. If you start your truck for a minute, let the grid heaters cycle a few times, then shut it off and restart it the wts light is not going to stay on as long as before because the intake temps are still warm. Is there an issue with the way the truck is running? JR

Truck runs great, It always starts right up. Only thing wrong with it is it only get 13mpg. I drive it very easy too, just cant get any better mpgs. I wasn't sure if the ECM is going bad which is causing problems with the vp44/timing which is the reason behind the bad gas mileage. Gonna try some RV275 to see if it helps any.

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If the VP has high miles then it could be a part of it. Usually the ecm will not effect mileage though unless there's some real driveability issues. Generally you will get a check engine light if the VP is maxed out on advancement but not always. Injectors you can always pull and have them pop tested to verify before you spend money on new ones unless your wanting to upgrade anyway.JR

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If the VP has high miles then it could be a part of it. Usually the ecm will not effect mileage though unless there's some real driveability issues. Generally you will get a check engine light if the VP is maxed out on advancement but not always. Injectors you can always pull and have them pop tested to verify before you spend money on new ones unless your wanting to upgrade anyway. JR

Is there a way to tell if the VP has been replaced?

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