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Truck wont start

JOHNFAK
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MnTom

MnTom

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I have never seen any fuse like that. If the solenoid lifts then the electrical is functioning. The only other thing is fuel. When you cracked the lines at the AD did you get any air? Next try cracking the banjo bolt on the P7100 and see if you get fuel out there. If you do it will still take a little bit of cranking to fire up.

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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Its a 15A fuse that goes into the harness that ties back to the relay on the right hand side. I had a spare and it made no difference so I will work on that later and see what it is.

 

I loosened the fuel filter on the AD to try and make sure pulling fuel - not a good idea I busted the O-RING loose and fuel went everywhere very quick. I then started cracking injection pump lines ..... theres fuel there ..... not sure its as much as I was expecting.

I need to have the wife try and start it whilst I watch the lever ..... but in park with no key I think its all the way up (recessed).

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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Why is everything so oily up on the back firewall like that, I would go nuts if there was any oil at all in my engine compartment like that, YIKES!

In a coal mining environment oil coated wires like that is an immediate safety shutdown item and if MSHA saw it in use would be a very big fine for "failure to maintain".

Just trace the wiring to whatever added components there are. That is a common fuse holder used for aftermarket add on accessories.

 

Fuses melt like that because it was too big of a fuse for the load and they will melt or slow blow indicating too high of a draw for the circuit for whatever reason not knowing what it is for.

 

On many occasions I have seen the old glass fuses melt the solder out of the end caps and if you didn't look close enough or use a meter you couldn't tell they were blown, the new style just melts the plastic indicating too big of a fuse in a flawed circuit.

Edited by Wild and Free
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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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The truck had a big oil leak from tappet cover at time I bought it. I suspect a lot of the oil came from this ..... but that area and just under the vacuum pump are the worst (small leak at VP). Now there are no leaks and I clean up as I go ..... havent liked cleaning the wiring too much for risk of introducting electrical issues by accident.

 

I have 25psi at the pump at ingition on ..... and the truck seems to crank fine and I had the starter bench tested just a few weeks back. I have the batteries on a charge now just to eliminate that ..... Im pretty sure its not the issue ....... I literally drove the truck home last night and parked it. Got up this mornining and pulled the 140A alternator fuse and blue/green sensor for the alternator ...... and noticed it wouldnt crank. Put the 140a back in and sensor still no crank.

 

I cant think of anything else it can be since it cranks than lack of fuel. When I crack #1 I get a small feed ......... I need to have wife try and start while I watch the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (FSS) to make sure its moving....... and then crack more lines ......

 

any other ideas ?

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MnTom

MnTom

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With that pump as long as the shut down lever was in the up position it will run. Are you sure you are getting substaintail fuel out of the injector lines? It should sqirt quite well if you had enough fuel. Do you smell any raw fuel at the exhaust after you crank it?

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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Well its definately the FSS. I had the wife jump in (she was out all day yesterday) and I watched the solenoid and no movement on crank. So I pushed it up and fuel started to flow and she  started to turn.

 

Bit that threw me was it looked like I was getting fuel at lines ...... just not as much as I thought I should have been .....

 

So next question - how do I go about testing the RELAY...... dont think I have another one to swap in/out as different than the PCM relays I believe.

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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NOOOOOOoooooo ::-)

 

So its not the relay ...... it has continuity and I can hear it engage when testing.

 

So makes me wonder --- when I pulled the 140A fuse out for alternator .... is that section of circuit protected by another fuse or something ? As the FSS draws power from the two lugs directly next to the 140A fuse .......

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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Well tested everyting out ....... all seems to work as it should ........ so not sure

 

Only thing I can see is that if I supply 12V to the PULL wire it pulls the lever/solenoid. However at crank that wire only sees 10.5 ........

But batteries are ok and so is relay ....

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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Also worked out how this all started.

The FSS is hardwired into the terminals on the 140A circuit ......... those two connectors above the 140A fuse. So taking that out disables the FSS. Guessing thats a ppump thing :) 

 

Rest was bad connections.

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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Also worked out how this all started.

The FSS is hardwired into the terminals on the 140A circuit ......... those two connectors above the 140A fuse. So taking that out disables the FSS. Guessing thats a ppump thing :)

 

Rest was bad connections.

I always knew that.................

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qztuEucrNBc

Edited by Wild and Free
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rancherman

rancherman

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Well tested everyting out ....... all seems to work as it should ........ so not sure

 

Only thing I can see is that if I supply 12V to the PULL wire it pulls the lever/solenoid. However at crank that wire only sees 10.5 ........

But batteries are ok and so is relay ....

John, 10.5v during crank is about all your going to see.. Especially on a cold start.

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JOHNFAK

JOHNFAK

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Glad you got it running and it turned out to be something fairly easy to fix!

 

Yeah - funny when you spend hours or days on easy stuff ......... good learning though as now I know how the FSS works and where it can break which suprisngly is a few sources :) 

 

thx guys

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