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New to me 2000 dodge ram with ppump conversion. Let the games begin. :lol:Got home from holidays. Truck wouldn't turn. Noticed batteries seemed dead . 10.6 V. Charged them up .... primary is holding 12.6 and secondary 11.8 (might have to replace). However truck will not turn at all.Checked the starter was getting 12V at the main terminal (large wire).Switched relays for starter around ....... no difference.Don't think it can be the fuel shutoff solenoid - as it would still crank wouldnt it :think: just not start.So thinking I bumped something on the starter or something around that ........ideas ??

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I jumped it and nothing happened but sparks Pulled starter and batteries to auto parts warehouse Starter and driver side checked OK Passenger side with low voltage bad cell Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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Possible if one battery was bad wouldn't crank at all ? Also .... how to find out what was drawing battery down Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Yes, it's possible. The bad one was likely sucking the life out of the good one, causing the no-start issue..........so you may not have anything drawing down the power.

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It should crank over or attempt to even with one good battery, you need to check the small signal wire at the starter solenoid for power when the key is turned to the start position. Do not know any specifics on the rig yet if it is a manual or auto, neutral safety switch bad or clutch pedal switch bad?Someone has not updated their signature yet.............................wink wink!!

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I'll do that in morning :)2000 4x4 3500 srw built auto ppump. Two wires to starter solenoid one red and one black guessing you mean check if the red one is getting power ..... Can't think neutral safety switch is bad as truck was working fine until parked whilst went away for 9 days holidays ..... came back and voltage low and no crank Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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Yep just hook your meter or test light to them and see if you get power when key is turned to start position.If you try to jump the starter you need to jump the battery positive cable to the little positive signal terminal to kick it in. You got sparks because you hit the positive battery terminal with a ground terminal or the body of the solenoid or starter.

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I would say its the starter considering you jumped it straight from the battery and nothing happened.

Tested fine at the bench .....

- - - Updated - - -

Yep just hook your meter or test light to them and see if you get power when key is turned to start position.

If you try to jump the starter you need to jump the battery positive cable to the little positive signal terminal to kick it in. You got sparks because you hit the positive battery terminal with a ground terminal or the body of the solenoid or starter.

I jumped between the main battery cable attached to starter and the solenoid terminal where the two wires are - using a screwdriver.

I'll take a regular gauge wire with alligator clip and do a direct bridge from the red wire of solenoid to positive of battery with key on start position (guess this is what your saying) ......

- - - Updated - - -

Did you check your fuse for the starter?

Think its the relay ....... I swapped relays around ...... no difference

- - - Updated - - -

Well 1 new battery and 1 new fuse and she's alive. :thumbup2:

Dont know what the cause was. Leaning towards fuse ..... but I cant for the life of me remember if I checked it prior or not ...... :banghead:

Either way - good to have it out and gave me a better look at the tappet cover leak I have deal with soon .... :wow:

thx guys

- - - Updated - - -

BTW - how to test if there is an "overdraw" on the batteries with ignition off ???

Want to see if there is something drawing down on the batteries (or not).

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You need a good amp meter that is fused (in case of over load) disconnect the negative battery cables, with the amp meter set on the highest scale (20 amps or better) attach the positive lead to the negative battery cable and the negative lead to the negative battery post. If you don't see any reading go to the 500 milliamp setting, if still no reading try the 50 milliamp setting. A reading under 30 milliamps is o'k. When you first complete the circuit you may see a high reading , wait 2-3 sec. the reading should come down. If your' reading a draw of 2-3 amps there's a blub on.

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Ok I have another truck wont start issue. This time it cranks but won't turn over. Cracked the airdog and the lines to get any air out no difference .... was looking at wiring for the FSS seems ok but then I found this .....

Any ideas what this fuse is for ?

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I have never seen any fuse like that. If the solenoid lifts then the electrical is functioning. The only other thing is fuel. When you cracked the lines at the AD did you get any air? Next try cracking the banjo bolt on the P7100 and see if you get fuel out there. If you do it will still take a little bit of cranking to fire up.

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Its a 15A fuse that goes into the harness that ties back to the relay on the right hand side. I had a spare and it made no difference so I will work on that later and see what it is.

 

I loosened the fuel filter on the AD to try and make sure pulling fuel - not a good idea I busted the O-RING loose and fuel went everywhere very quick. I then started cracking injection pump lines ..... theres fuel there ..... not sure its as much as I was expecting.

I need to have the wife try and start it whilst I watch the lever ..... but in park with no key I think its all the way up (recessed).

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Why is everything so oily up on the back firewall like that, I would go nuts if there was any oil at all in my engine compartment like that, YIKES!

In a coal mining environment oil coated wires like that is an immediate safety shutdown item and if MSHA saw it in use would be a very big fine for "failure to maintain".

Just trace the wiring to whatever added components there are. That is a common fuse holder used for aftermarket add on accessories.

 

Fuses melt like that because it was too big of a fuse for the load and they will melt or slow blow indicating too high of a draw for the circuit for whatever reason not knowing what it is for.

 

On many occasions I have seen the old glass fuses melt the solder out of the end caps and if you didn't look close enough or use a meter you couldn't tell they were blown, the new style just melts the plastic indicating too big of a fuse in a flawed circuit.

Edited by Wild and Free

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The truck had a big oil leak from tappet cover at time I bought it. I suspect a lot of the oil came from this ..... but that area and just under the vacuum pump are the worst (small leak at VP). Now there are no leaks and I clean up as I go ..... havent liked cleaning the wiring too much for risk of introducting electrical issues by accident.

 

I have 25psi at the pump at ingition on ..... and the truck seems to crank fine and I had the starter bench tested just a few weeks back. I have the batteries on a charge now just to eliminate that ..... Im pretty sure its not the issue ....... I literally drove the truck home last night and parked it. Got up this mornining and pulled the 140A alternator fuse and blue/green sensor for the alternator ...... and noticed it wouldnt crank. Put the 140a back in and sensor still no crank.

 

I cant think of anything else it can be since it cranks than lack of fuel. When I crack #1 I get a small feed ......... I need to have wife try and start while I watch the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (FSS) to make sure its moving....... and then crack more lines ......

 

any other ideas ?

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With that pump as long as the shut down lever was in the up position it will run. Are you sure you are getting substaintail fuel out of the injector lines? It should sqirt quite well if you had enough fuel. Do you smell any raw fuel at the exhaust after you crank it?

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