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Time to put the winter front on.

flagmanruss
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Kotta390

Kotta390

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Is this neccessary to do when the temps do not ever get below 25F in the middle of the day?

 

Actually put mine on the 96 gasser and pulled the cold air tube from the Air Filter.

 

I keep forgetting that you see some extremely cold weather there!!

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Kotta390

Kotta390

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I've got both kind of weather. Freezing minus temperatures and frying summer heat in the 110-115*F range.

 

I would suggest aiding the heat if a notice in MPG is reduced.

 

 

The truck starts fine even at around 25F, I just got my fuel sending unit in so I can't tell what my fuel mileage is yet but I did however remove my heat shield from the BHAF (thanks to your heat shield design Moparman) during the colder days so I can get warmer air in the inlet of the intake. Other than that she has been driving around with no heat issues that I know of yet. I will start paying attention to my fuel mileage and see what I am getting.

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flagmanruss

flagmanruss

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I have the stock air box back in for winter but no cold air tube into the fender.  I should have duct taped over the fender hole. Maybe I can still do it. 

 

I don't know how hard it is to redirect warmer air in the Cirrus which I'm driving daily...  without even figuring my MPGs are sorking big time just on the rate of tank drop. No easy grill block like the Dodge.  

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Kotta390

Kotta390

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I have the stock air box back in for winter but no cold air tube into the fender.  I should have duct taped over the fender hole. Maybe I can still do it. 

 

I don't know how hard it is to redirect warmer air in the Cirrus which I'm driving daily...  without even figuring my MPGs are sorking big time just on the rate of tank drop. No easy grill block like the Dodge.  

 

I like the idea of blocking that fender well hole to the stock air box. I got some aluminum speed tape that should work until it gets warmer. Thanks for the idea  :thanks:

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dorkweed

dorkweed

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I've not put mine on the couple of winters prior to this one.  Reason being, is that my truck started with the "dead pedal" thing if I idled too long or got behind a vehicle to close (drafting).

 

After the first couple times it happened, I replaced the APPS.  Not a fix.  Then I started researching;  I found out that the winter front can cause an increased temp in areas of the truck that the APPS wiring runs…………this causing the dead pedal and the codes.  I'm not 100% sure on the above info, as I cannot find where I found this in the past, and I'm recalling it off memory.

 

Since then, I've not run the winter front and have not have this problem.  I dunno.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I've not put mine on the couple of winters prior to this one.  Reason being, is that my truck started with the "dead pedal" thing if I idled too long or got behind a vehicle to close (drafting).

 

After the first couple times it happened, I replaced the APPS.  Not a fix.  Then I started researching;  I found out that the winter front can cause an increased temp in areas of the truck that the APPS wiring runs…………this causing the dead pedal and the codes.  I'm not 100% sure on the above info, as I cannot find where I found this in the past, and I'm recalling it off memory.

 

Since then, I've not run the winter front and have not have this problem.  I dunno.

 

Sound like a Internet myth.

 

APPS sensor codes or dead pedal would be cause from APPS signal out of functional range. Heat should have nothing to do with it being the truck is in baking summer heat without a issue. So why would summer heat be fine and winter front heat be bad? Make you think?

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dorkweed

dorkweed

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Sound like a Internet myth.

 

APPS sensor codes or dead pedal would be cause from APPS signal out of functional range. Heat should have nothing to do with it being the truck is in baking summer heat without a issue. So why would summer heat be fine and winter front heat be bad? Make you think?

Mike, I'll see if I can dig up the info where I read this.  IIRC, it was on Competition Diesel.  

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Still don't see how any of that has to do with the APPS? The codes are for hi and lo volts codes and heat shouldn't change voltage of the wiring. Still why wouldn't be worse in the summer with baking heat and being trapped in traffic? I'm going to look up the wiring diagrams for this and the error codes for this as well and get back...

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/367-p2122-low-voltage-at-the-app-sensor

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/397-p2123-high-voltage-at-the-app-sensor

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/398-p2127-low-voltage-at-the-throttle-validation-switch

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flagmanruss

flagmanruss

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As soon as I put it on, it warmed right up...  hit 60 the day I exercised the truck.  Hawk eye on the temp gauge but was running empty.  It did go up to center & then dropped back slightly on the highway.  We'll be back in the freezer tomorrow, cooled off today... 

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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I towed a Mustang (appr 3500 pounds) on my 2500 pound tilt trailer 300 miles to Cincinnatti in 50 degree weather with my winter fronts and it never budged above 190*. We had been seeing cold weather up here which is why I had them on but by the time we drove 300 miles south the weather was considerably warmer. I almost pulled them at a fuel stop but decided against it and just kept an eye on the gauge. Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever seen my truck run hot, even towing heavy in 90* weather. Pretty robust cooling systems.

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