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antifreeze... long and short


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Remember if you use any flush chemical do leave them in too long because most are a acid nature to help break loose all the junk. Then make sure to rinse the entire system out really good a few times. In other words fill, drive, and dump a few times to makes sure you get it all rinse out. It really sucks when you don't and the CLR or block flush now eats your head gasket or heater core.

I'd even follow up with a Cascade dish soap type rinse.. it's a PH+ (base) type detergent that would help neutralize the acid.. Then flush a few times with clear water
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I'd be afraid of using something like CLR, I've seen what that stuff does to shower heads after a few minutes so I'd be nervous about not getting it all out like Mike says.

I switched my truck over from the traditional ethylene glycol to Peak Global. I don't buy the lifetime fill that Peak claims but I plan on testing for ph annually and will see how it does. I did several flushes to get the old stuff out So I'm confident I can easily double the service intervals. It's really a win win situation - I am increasing my service intervals which will decrease my overall costs (Peak Global was about a dollar more than the regular green antifreeze), and I am creating less toxic waste to have to dispose of.

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One thing you have to be careful about universal coolants, all that I have looked at are an OAT blend of some sort. Some OAT like Dexcool use 2EHA in their formula, which at one time was responsible for eating silicon gaskets in cooling systems. If a cooling system is not designed for use of 2EHA, it is best to stay away from any type of formula that uses it. Peak Global does not use 2EHA, but Prestone does As does some other brands Of universal coolant.

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Where does everyone go with their waste antifreeze? Poll here:I save mine, and use it for ballast in the tractor rear tires. No rust problems as with the calcium chloride!

I'

Very intuitive! One of the local auto parts stores collects it here for a small fee. I take mine to an acquaintance who disposes of it by the drum through Safety Kleen.

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So, to bring this post here to bed....

If I drain my Jeep, flush it a couple times, and refill it with Peak global, I'll be good.

What I've found in this forum, and others, Is the various additives being used over the years for longer life, corrosion resistance in many, many different metals, plastics, and electrical currents passing through them, all have their merits, but sure don't 'play well' with the others! (don't mix!)

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Your best bet IMO is either the Peak or stick with a G05 coolant. They both would perform well, offer extended service and protection, and will mix well with what is currently in your system in case you don't get all of it out with a couple of flushes. Going back to old school ethylene glycol (green stuff) or any OAT with a 2EHA formula could be a recipe for trouble.

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There is a thread over on Cummins Forum talking more about installing a coolant filter with anode and recharge. The idea sounds good but I've only seen a few that added it to the truck but no testing has ever been done to prove anything. Anyone here considering doing this too? I would love to see someone do it and do the testing too. Price of coolant is getting expensive. I'm considering it because of the cost of replacement.

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That's exactly the reason I made the switch away from traditional ethylene glycol. The short service intervals are mainly due to the silicates/corrosion inhibiters expiring/falling out of suspension.  For literally 1dollar more than the price of a gallon of the green stuff I am able to purchase the Peak  Global which is silicate free. I have effectively doubled my service interval and that is being very conservative considering their "Lifetime" claims. If I can get 4-5 years out of the stuff and still have a neutral PH, I'll consider it a success.

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it's a continuous flow. Valves are there just to shut off the water so removal of filter isn't as messy. Whatever that little 3/8ths line can run.. so a tiny amount is always getting treated.

As far as testing and treating.. My owners manual on that 903 basically says to 'test' every thousand hours or so.. and add an SCA treatment IF it's getting a little acidy. If antifreeze looks 'clean' that is!

I plan on changing the filter every few years, there is a dissolving chunk of 'something' in there to help with

PH.

I've only owned this machine for about 5 yrs, and it's had at least 2 complete fills with new antifreeze I rebuilt the engine once, and had to replace 1 more cylinder afterwards..... 24 gallons a shot!

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Dexcool is GM's antifreeze. They were the first American manufacture to use an OAT based coolant. They were shooting for extended service intervals and although it was the most advanced coolant at the time early model GM's suffered many failures from the 2EHA based inhibitors. 2EHA is a known plasticizer and will soften certain plastics and rubbers so if a cooling system is not desinged for those inhibitors you are running a huge risk by running it. I believe OEM's learned from GM's mistakes and are using compatible components because 2EHA is a cheap and effective corrosion inhibitor. I don't know if Chrysler's older cooling systems are compatible or not but I would not run any OAT based coolant with 2EHA inhibitors.

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Dexcool is GM's antifreeze. They were the first American manufacture to use an OAT based coolant. They were shooting for extended service intervals and although it was the most advanced coolant at the time early model GM's suffered many failures from the 2EHA based inhibitors. 2EHA is a known plasticizer and will soften certain plastics and rubbers so if a cooling system is not desinged for those inhibitors you are running a huge risk by running it. I believe OEM's learned from GM's mistakes and are using compatible components because 2EHA is a cheap and effective corrosion inhibitor. I don't know if Chrysler's older cooling systems are compatible or not but I would not run any OAT based coolant with 2EHA inhibitors.

Think of the thousands and thousands of v-6's that had melted (not from heat either) plastic intake manifolds because of that stuff!

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I'm really not sure why they would be experiencing those kind of problems if they are flushing at scheduled service intervals. By 2002 GM should have ironed out the issues with the gasket material and pump seals and such. Are they thoroughly flushing or just draining the radiator and refilling? The only issues I've seen with Dexcool in systems that are designed for Dexcool are more from lack of servicing than anything. Dexcool is silica based and is susceptible to fallout if left in for too long or mixed with another coolant with different chemistry which will plug passages in extreme circumstances.

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Well the van has about 160k miles and it has been actually flushed about 5 times in its life. Every single time it just turns to mud in about a year. Ever since brand new. Just kind of strange. The dealership even blamed it on the Dexcool. I believe you in that I dont think the coolant itself is at fault but it is weird.

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