Crankshaft Position Sensor broke apart

[MoparFreak1988]

Hey guys got a question for ya has anyone ever removed there crankshaft position sensor mine is right between the starter and the stock lift pump? My problem is that upon removal the factory service manual says to twist as you pull to remove it upon doing so the plastic housing disinigrated leaving me with a little quarter inch nub, any suggestions for getting this thing out without dropping the oil pan since I would need to drop the transmission to get the oil pan off, other than that I was thinking maybee drive a screw into it?Thanks in advance

[cummins2k]

First off you should probably fill out your sig so we know what your working with :thumbsup:Not to state the obvious but the first thing that comes to mind is did you remove the 10mm bolt that retains the sensor?

[MoparFreak1988]

Ya I did I broke down this morning and took it to ervs shop to get it pushed out :banghead:. I went online and found that you can drop the oil pan without dropping the tranny but you would almost definatly need a lift otherwise its quite trying getting it back in is the hardest part I found out and yes its fixed now I was going to do a write up but no one seemed interested lol... Thanks again

[Mopar1973Man]

I was going to do a write up but no one seemed interested lol...

I've been watching the thread but I've got little to offer... But I would love to see the write up...

[MoparFreak1988]

Sorry in advance for not having pics my digital camera has been mia for awhile now, now about that pesky little crankshaft position sensor if u dont know where its location it is that little sensor right behind your starter with one ten mill bolt holding it in, if it needs to be replaced you will need to remove the starter. Now whenever you have the starter out you should exercise/remove the sensor because of a rust ring that devolps in the socket that it sits in (the problem with mine) this forms from all the dirt sand salt and any other lovly debris on or off the pavement now it should only take u about to minutes if the starter is out and it is free. If it is not free you should start by wire brushing around the socket as well as soaking it with penatrent also u should take a shop rag and slide it down behind the dipstick and run it back and forth to get the crap out of there since you will prolly need to remove it if it gets really stuck but that is your choice it makes it easier if your lucky like me the housing will break apart and leave u with a little nub, rather than trying to grab it with a plyers i sugest takeing a 1/8in drill bit in a batery drill and drill into it from the bottom at about a 45 degree angle dont go to far about a half inch then take a 1/8 in drift one you dont like since you will almost definatly bend it slide it in ur new hole and spin it rock it and pull once ur at this point you will understand why removing the diptube can be nice if these fetal atemps prove useless then your going down my road which sucks... lol First off take a small blade screw driver and slowly chissel around the sensor you will prolly need a hamer there is an o-ring farther in so if you dont go to deep damaging the socket a little bit wolnt hurt once you have completed that and she still wolnt give in then go should lube it up again with your choice of penatrant i chose wd-40 take your drill and bit and drill into the sensor again four times the holes should be spaced at 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 oclock on the outer edge going again at a 45 degree angle into the sensor it will almost definately come out at this point i had to many holes in mine so half went one way the other into the oil pan so be carefull no more than 5 1/8 inch holes or you'll most likely get into trouble... Now for extracting it from the pan in the book it says we sould need to drop the tranny but you can get the clearance you need by loosening the four bolts on the all of the motor mount be sure to have some way of jacking the motor i found the only safe way was with a cherry picker secure the motor in the front at the thermostat housing and there only if your using the picker or in our case a piccker first then just a chain on the rafters at the shop and we used the hoist to raise it slightly now while ur up ther position the fan so that the gap between the blades is at 12 oclock otherwise u risk cracking the shroud now you can procede with loosing the four bolts this can be kinda trying but i found it easier than the single bolt through the mount since loosing the four bolt allows u to lift it without removing the bolts where as the single bolt will have to be completly removed to move the motor, trial and error taught me that... with the eight bolts loose i thinks thats all i may be missing something now proceed back and loosen the transmission bolts but again all of the mounting bolts only need to be loose if you remove then like i did you will most likely have a headache and alot more work for yourself i have a quick clamp on my exhaust behind the turbo so that is where i made the split you may not even need to break the exhaust it just looked like it was going to be in the way once you have done thatraise the motor till the fan hits the shroud now loosen your pan bolts and i think on autos there are cooller lines you will need to move or remove once that is done come at it from behind and remove the three pickup tube bolts which this is the hardest part to take apart and put back toghether, by the way by this time i hope u were smart enough to drain the oil some people arent tho i trust all of you would know that lol by this time it ought to be str8 forwardand fairly easy wiggleing the pan out wil take some paitence i didnt need to pull it all the way out to get the piece but upon finding a bit of sludge in the pan i wanted to get it out and clean it thoughly for those of you interested i hope it helps if i made a mistake or left something out let me know i think i got it all, we had a couple a cold ones in us when we started and a few more by the end so i may have missed a thing or to lol