He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins

[Me78569]

I ohm'd out the speed sensor, I think it came back at 96 something.  

 

I think I shorted out something while it was under the dash and cause that pin on the arduino to fail.  Been looking for a reason to go with a mega and a new cleaner shield for all the wires.

[Vais01]

19 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

well I am banging my head on my desk trying to figure out why my shaft speed is no longer working.  I found that the 5v rail on my shield was no longer 5v, but after I

1 minute ago, Me78569 said:

I ohm'd out the speed sensor, I think it came back at 96 something.  

 

I think I shorted out something while it was under the dash and cause that pin on the arduino to fail.  Been looking for a reason to go with a mega and a new cleaner shield for all the wires.

that issue I am still not getting any readings.  

 

Ohm'd out all the wireing and it is all good.  

 

All I am left with is the pin 8 on my arduino is burnt up.  it might be time for me to build a new controller that isn't "beta"   dunno.

Might be a good time to do so. Check your Arduino and the connection.

[Me78569]

woot, 

 

Shaft speed is reading again.  Turns out that the butt joints I used, after I notices the solder joints were bad, don't work in the VSS setup.  I dont understand why you can use a plug/pin connection but a button connector won't work.  

 

Back to the OBD stuff.

[Vais01]

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

woot, 

 

Shaft speed is reading again.  Turns out that the butt joints I used, after I notices the solder joints were bad, don't work in the VSS setup.  I dont understand why you can use a plug/pin connection but a button connector won't work.  

 

Back to the OBD stuff.

Butt splice creates a different resistance value in most cases or the continuity is not enough. I use solder and heat shrink where I can. Even to tap the VP44 I would strip back the wire and western union solder a wire in with a sealed single pin connection. 

[Me78569]

It ohm'd out at 0.000 haha.  

 

 

[Me78569]

and my issue is back. Last night idling I was seeing turbo speed, this morning, nadda..... ugh.  

[Vais01]

17 hours ago, Me78569 said:

It ohm'd out at 0.000 haha.  

 

 

Haha doubt that. On a DVOM turn off your averager and see what you get. It's usually within a different scale.

 

Try checking to see if the sensor is shorting through the main body. That sensor has a coil that measures tip gap (hall sensor). The other thing is look for any sharp turns on the wire. Too sharp a bend will equal broken strands and possibly loss of continuity.

[Invaliduser113]

I just had issues with my maxxim chip, ended up having to make a new one.

The speed sensor could be temperature sensitive and when it gets cold it opens, seen that a few times.

 

[Me78569]

Yea I am thinking I am going to buy a new speed sensor,  PN 68039104AA

[Invaliduser113]

Thankfully the sensors are easy to change. 

When your tuning the turbos, have you found it is easier to get the turbo spooled starting with a little larger housing or keeping it tight and opening it quickly? 

[Me78569]

It seems to spool better if I jump to 5cm right at the first tps input, (offidle  varible) then open up to 9cm pretty quickly.

If you hold the housing small more than a slight second smoke output comes up.

 

 

[Invaliduser113]

Did you get your speed sensor working? 

[Me78569]

Not yet.  I should get the new one tomorrow or tuesday.

 

I hope that fixes it lol

[Me78569]

Well the new shaft speed sensor did not fix it, but I did fix the issue.

 

the solder joint in the harness was just not good enough, I cut it out and rewired the plug to the shaft speed sensor.  Issue is now fixed.  Gonna be nice to have my low end back again.

[Me78569]

Little update,  

 

Since I have redone the wire/[plug for the shaft speed sensor I am happy to report that my upper end shaft speeds are much more stable.  I am not struggling to push the turbo faster than 115,000.  

 

With the latest shaft speed code ( I did update it) uses the unactive pot position to define the curve.  I know I posted the code example before, but in short the higher the pot value the more the turbo opens up based upon shaft speed.  

 

I should be pushing 35-40psi safely and within the map without much issue.  I think 16cm is going to be where my curve ends.    I should also be able to turn up the fuel some in the Quadzilla.  

[Me78569]

Well I haven't been able to really beat on it much due to the roads being too icy to put power down, but I can tell that I have gained significant power across the board now that I am no longer getting strange shaft speed readings.  

 

Pretty excited to turn the fuel up some and see what happens.

[Mopar1973Man]

Now is the time to build your tune for MPG tune and traction control too.

[Me78569]

honestly MPG doesn't really seem to change between vane positions.  

 

I can set the veins to wide open cruise at 65 with 0 drive and 0 boost and get 22 mpg, If I set the vanes to 9cm I sit at 5-7 psi boost and 10 psi drive again stay right at 22mpg.  

 

My current tires dropped my mileage by about 3 due to their weight.  Still 235/85/16's but they are a lot heavier than my last tires.  

 

As for traction control that's in the right foot   

[Vais01]

On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Me78569 said:

Little update,  

 

Since I have redone the wire/[plug for the shaft speed sensor I am happy to report that my upper end shaft speeds are much more stable.  I am not struggling to push the turbo faster than 115,000.  

 

With the latest shaft speed code ( I did update it) uses the unactive pot position to define the curve.  I know I posted the code example before, but in short the higher the pot value the more the turbo opens up based upon shaft speed.  

 

I should be pushing 35-40psi safely and within the map without much issue.  I think 16cm is going to be where my curve ends.    I should also be able to turn up the fuel some in the Quadzilla.  

Great work finding your root issue. 

 

I had set mine up for maximum opening of 16CM also. With my Quadzilla on 10 EGT was high but the boost kicked up to 40 PSI very quickly. 

9 hours ago, Me78569 said:

honestly MPG doesn't really seem to change between vane positions.  

 

I can set the veins to wide open cruise at 65 with 0 drive and 0 boost and get 22 mpg, If I set the vanes to 9cm I sit at 5-7 psi boost and 10 psi drive again stay right at 22mpg.  

 

My current tires dropped my mileage by about 3 due to their weight.  Still 235/85/16's but they are a lot heavier than my last tires.  

 

As for traction control that's in the right foot   

You and I have noticed the same thing. I had and still run 285/70R17 tires and weight is an issue but the key is rolling resistance when trying to achieve maximum MPG. 

I had the best MPG cruising at 7 PSI of boost on the HE351 when I ran it. My current configuration on my SIGNATURE  is the same MPG but only 1-3 PSI of boost depending on load and RPM. Odd how that works I'm guessing the reduction in drive pressure for my current configuration is probably the reason for this.

 

As for traction control I say the same thing. Even my form of firearm safety is keep your finger off the trigger or just have an empty chamber .

[Me78569]

Cowboy,

 

Here is a short and dirty video of the spool with the turbo.  I think it was %35 throttle from a slow roll.  I get onto the throttle at about the 8 second mark.   The lower screen shows boost at 7000' so you have to minus about 4 or 5 from the number to get the true boost.  I am currently fixing the code to adjust boost using idle psi.