2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Shell has introduced a new diesel in my area, they call it FIT diesel. They claim to have corrosion inhibitors, anti gel and anti wear protection added. The station by me has had in the past 10% bio diesel. So i did not run any two stroke in that. I want to ask the company some questions as they also claim to have raised the cetane level in the new fuel. If you google shell fit diesel they have a FAQ section on their site but have very vague answers. I guess my question is, what do i specifically ask them for? Cetane score? HHFR score? What? Anyone that knows diesel may be able to decipher what it is saying but i can't. Do i run two stroke with this new diesel…

Ok, so my fuel pump started not to kick on when the key is turned on or when the engine is bumped. So I went to the troubleshooting guide on the Airdogs website. It said to put a jumper wire where the fuse goes to see if it will kick on. Well I jumped the fuse and all of a sudden the fuel pump started clicking on and off repeatedly. So I turned the key off. Replaced the fuse and it keeps doing it. Everytime I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump kicks on and off and there is a bunch of clicking noises in the fuse box in the engine compartment. It's like I'm turning the key on and off, on and off, on and offVery confused and don't know what to do. I tried scannin…

Ok, Finally making headway on the massive pile of parts needing to be installed on the truck....Tonight I finally installed the "Big Line Kit" from Vulcan, that goes from the stock fuel filter to the VP44, also utilized the T push on connector for fuel gauge as I have been gradually working on installing the gauges simultaneously... I think part of my problem is self inflicted, I spent so much time reading about different options I think at the end of the day I complicated the situation. I ordered my AD, drawstraw, big line kit and Isspro Gauages (fuel pressure, trans temp and EGT) as well as the air dog low fuel pressure light all at the same time... (seemed logical a…

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 5.9 Diesel. After I drive it 8-10 miles the check engine light comes on and the tachometer bounces up and down. Sometimes it goes down to zero and stays there. Other times it responds like it's supposed to. While it does this the engine "power surges", it cuts out and loses power but doesn't die. Other times it gains power......when you get down on it sometimes the tachometer responds like it's supposed to but the vehicle doesn't gain any power, not falling on it's face but not responding. It's not the throttle postion sensor because the tachometer responds. The codes I keep getting are: P1693 P1694 P0123 P1690 P0336 I have cle…

Just another failed 3-4 accumulator spring. Had a really hard 3-4 shift and here's why:

FeelerI know there are aftermarket coolers that bolt on in place of the NV5600 PTO cover. I'm thinking of fabricating an inexpensive/affordable alternative replacement cover, not for added cooling but more for you guys who are not as concerned about cooling but more interested in just simple mods such npt ports for temp sensor, fill and drain with a magnet. Seems silly to pull the shifter for overfilling & pulling the PTO cover to drain. Why not a just a few simple npt ports. A couple of questions:Anyone have a spare PTO cover or 2 laying around? Looking for a few covers for prototype template fabrication/testing.Most guys are overfilling the NV5600. How many quart…

My front drive shaft u-joints are toast. I really need to get them re-placed but I have never messed with the a double carden joint before. Any of you guys done this? if so what is the best method of attack?Thanks

Alright guys anybody know the exact years with the KDP? Mines an 01 sport model. And is there a way to tell if you've got the upgraded crankcase that prevents this problem with out taking it apart? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other day when I started my truck, I walked back into shop and suddenly, it went into high idle mode by itself, temp was about 30. This morning, I went out to start truck, walked into house and it goes into 3 cylinder mode. About 5 above. I disconnected my fooler weeks ago. Had to reroute wires when I put clutch master in. Never hooked the fooler back up. Do I have a ghost? Do they do this without the fooler from factory? Never did it last year..............

I have a Isspro mechanical fuel gauge in my truck. I never got around to hooking up the light for the gauge. I very rarely drive the truck at night. The question I have is..there are two prongs on the back of the gauge. Does it matter which one is the hot and which one is the ground? Neither of them are marked with a + or - sign. Also, I am wondering if you guys have had good luck using "add-a-fuse" connectors? FP gauge is the only after market electrical accessory I have on the truck. I was thinking of using the add a fuse connectors to get a power source out of the panel. Wondering if you guys have had good success using those?Or if I should use another way to…

So I am changing a clutch on my 2001 5 spd 4wd and the old pilot bushing failed and exploded which caused the clutch to fail. the issue I am having is that my flywheel has a 6205nse c3 bearing machined into it, which has a 0.9525" (25mm) id and the needle bearing that came with my new clutch has a 1.0025 od, doesn't seem to want to go- also the bushing that exploded was just a brass bushing and not a needle bearing. the guys at Napa who are usually pretty good are stumped and say they haven't seen this application on this truck before. this suckscan anyone help?

Ok, first off I bought this truck about 1.5 months ago and before I bought it, it had two brand new batteries and a brand new alternator installed. To be honest when I test drove it I don't believe the TC ever locked up(didn't know what TC lockup was when I bought it.) The transmission fluid was real brown and smelt really burnt, so I dropped the pan and changed the fluid and filter and adjusted bands(about 6 qts is all i got changed out. I didn't do I complete flush.) So now when the truck is cold, the TC will lock up at about 45-55mph, and the transmission starts to shudder until I get up to speed. After I get on the hwy it will stay locked in for about 4-5 miles then …

alright, I sold my 2002 dodge 2500 last week and picked up a 2000 Laramie slt 2500 short bed, its real nice! I like it. I had to have a new PCM installed in it today. (thankfully I have a great hook up ) so now the gauges work. but here is my dilemma , the guy I bought it from has 2 switches mounted on the lower dash, one is for converter lock up, the other is for over drive. and the transmission relay in the fuse block under the hood has been removed and 2 prongs are looped, (it does have a check engine light from it..) so I removed the looped wire, installed a new relay and leave the switches off. with the over drive button on it wont go into over drive. I check the w…

Once again I couldn't get the search to find what I wanted. So can someone direct me to the thread on putting a 4th gen thermostat in a. 2nd gen? Was it a 205 degree stat?

Is there a way to adjust timer for dome light? When I use remote to open doors dome light will be on for about a minute and there is no way to shut it off, unless I push lock button on key pad. Sometimes leaving store parking lots is annoying because I can't see where I'm going from light reflection. Plus every one outside stares at you . It may be the way it is but I hope there is a way to change it. Lets say when I get in a truck and shut the door lights should shut off, but the only time that works if I use a key to get in, or don't luck the truck at all. Thanks for any input.

Hey guys, Ok im going to be putting on my BHAF today!!! and I have a question. Do you really need a heat shield? and if so where would I go to get a cheap one?

Ok Gentelman I need some opinions on this one. Iv'e seen Mopar1973Man's page on 24v "Valve Lash Adjustment", and according to his your supposed to turn the bolt in the center of the Alternator to get to TDC, or BDC. But iv'e seen videos of guys turning the bolt directly behind the Crankcase Vent to get to TDC, OR BDC. So my questions is which "bolt" to turn? Then again it is 5:00 a.m. maybe my brains not working yet

Got my Frantz bypass filter installed. I am running the BHAF, so I mounted the filter in the same area screwed to the wheel well. I changed my oil and main filter at the same time. Had 10,000 miles on the oil and filter. Deborah tried to talk me into not changing my oil, but I had an aversion to that concept. Upon initial fire up it took a minute or two for the oil to start coming out the line to the oil fill cap. One it started coming out I was surprised at the volume. I assumed it would be less. My oil has never stayed amber color after oil change. It has had a dark tinge to it as soon as things started circulating after oil change. After a few days the oil is visibly…

I am replacing the batteries in my truck (they were very dead when I tried leaving for work this morning). I also need to replace the terminals as they are pretty beat up. I don't have a wire gauge tool but by my measurements based on copper diameter tell me the positive crossover between the batteries as well as both negative cables are 3/0 (000) and the positive between the starter and driver side battery is 5/0 (00000). Can anyone confirm this? That starter cable is certainly large! I'm having a bit of a time even finding a terminal that size. I'm all ears if you've got suggestions. Thank you very much!

Is it worth spending $250 on a deep transmission pan? Or just weld drain plug on stock pan? Thanks