2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

01 24 valve. Gauge wiring, not using factory cluster, is there a harness that leaves the computer to feed signal to the gauges? I'm wiring them into a Chevy and need the signal wires. Thanks Ron

Truck almost didn't want to start last night on way home from work. Got her started; good FP on way home (stock pumps), around 13-15 PSI. Got up this morning, started to crank, but no start. Turn key and won't even crank. Throwing a P0122 and so far nothing else. Just disconnected batteries couple minutes ago to reset APPS. Batteries are fairly new, 2 months old. Waiting the rest of the 30 min to try again, but looking for advice ahead of time. Will a dead VP44 always throw a code? I'm preparing myself for the worst with the VP, but hoping there's something I'm missing. If it doesn't crank again, I'll do the diagnostic on the APPS to check it out, once I get some more da…

I am not advertising but I had problems with my 47re in a 99 and did not have the money to rebuild after all the help from the guys here on this forum I found a man Robert from CASCADE TRANSMISSIONS from oregon I am in Texas and he walked me through it no problem and he sells parts and has plenty of videos on you tube if you need help contact him

Upon checking my drivers side ground wire I see it has 3 leads. 1 attaches to fender, heavy battery lead to bolt on engine block. Other lead has also been attached to this bolt but I believe it was originally attached somewhere else (maybe frame)? Will it make any difference where this 3rd lead is attached?

I was thinking of tying waste gate shut with a turnbuckle, I have the spring thingy but over time the boost is dropping off from 28 down to 24 now. There is no more adjustment in hook w/spring. What U think? Thanks

Well i got my BHAF in today and was putting it on and jsut decided to peak and see if the silencer ring was removed and found that alot more than the silencer ring was MIA. All I could see was a black film of oil. :banghead: I called around here and could get that one rebuilt through work for $800. Started looking around online and found some that were $1100 for an OEM replacement. Called one place and they had their "in house" brand which had the same warranty as the Holset but half the price and I dont have to send mine as a core. I know you pay for what you get sometimes but I had to get the cheaper one and hope it is as good as factory ones:pray:With the expeditied o…

Last year I had the ECM repaired because it would not come off of idle. This year it would start cold but would not start after it was warmed up? I sent the ECM back for repair but it was sent back saying it was fine but the PCM would be the problem? I sent in the PCM for repair and after it was returned and installed now the truck will not start at all? There are no codes showing? Any ideas?

Anyone else out there float gears? If so have you had any negative effects?

My truck has done it twice now. The other night I started it to go to town and it took three times cranking to start and they were long cranks like 15-20 seconds. notice that my WTS light was not on so I thought it was just the cold air cause it was 20 degrees outside. It started fine all other times that night. Started it to go to town again today and it did the same but WTS was on and it was 51 degrees today. I believe that the fuel system is losing prime. Was wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I will go out in a couple hours and see if it takes overnight or if it will do in a few hours. Truck has been sitting for almost three hours now.

My volt gauge goes up to the normal spot, just a hair over 14 but my scangauge II reads 13.5-13.6 volts. Is this normal?

First off im new to this site but ive found lots of useful info on here which has lead me to creating an acount. ok to begin i just rebuilt my vac pump, but im still getting a leak from that general area. i think its coming from the crankcase vent tube, i also noticed when i had the intercooler pipe off there was oil in there which makes me think my turbo is leaking? but would that make it come out of the vent tube? It only leaks out after driving a while. i checked for blow by today and didnt find any. i also saw that it smokes white out the vent tube. to add some more to it I re-oiled my K&N filter 3k miles ago and i think i might have used alittle much on it could …

I got a smoking deal on a used smarty for my 98. The guy was selling it for his buddy and wasnt sure if it was vin locked or not but didnt think it was. Last time he tried to download it the truck wouldnt take it so he put it back in the case and left it alone. His buddy says he can try to get a few bucks for it and I bit. He sient me pics and from them it did not look vin locked. I got it today and it would not finish downloaded, it would start at 0% and then time out communication or something. After this it my truck would not start so I was worried I just fried my ecm. I ended up unhooking my battery cables and then running the download, it worked but then it was just …

i swaped out my clutch in the shop most of the fluid leaked out. it looks like it all came out of the shifter mounting flang. why would some much come out of the top or should i look for another leak.

hey everyone im new to this wonderful forum,anyways ive got a 2002 dodge 2500 single cab diesel and everything on my truck is stock so where is a good starting point as what i should upgrade first. I want to add some power but nothing outrages just mosty for towing.

I have a 98.5 which don't want to start, just replaced the IP around 5000 miles, has no codes, FP 15 WOT 17 idle, Battery's are new. No AC from the alt. I have fuel to the injectors. when it will start runs strong, idles great. Have reset the APPS, any ideas? no mods except gauges.

Im corn fussed ?? replaced the injector pump and now i have an issue with excessive oil blowby ,its seems i need to be going better then 55 for this to happen ? any suggestions were i should b investigating first, thanks .

I still get fuel pressure and it will start, just no WTS light at all anymore. ecm?

I was having problems about a month ago. Truck cranked but wouldn't start. Check engine light on, codes present were 1688, 1689, 252, 254. Injection pump was replaced. Same problem, same codes. Took to local Chrysler dealer they cleared codes and said nothing was wrong. Drove to get fuel, truck was idling and just died and cranked but wouldn't start. When it finally started it wouldn't go above 1500 rpm's drove home on shoulder 8 mph. Sometimes when key is in the on position waiting for start light speedo needle with jump up and down and CEL will flash on and off. Help please!

Going to do brakes and power steering fluid... Haven't done before, couple questions:1) what size tubing for caliper coupling?2) when doing rear passenger wheel, just keep pumping until it turns clear then move to next wheel...?3) what happens if air gets in line - how will you know? Will brakes get spongy and I'll have to rebleed... One wheel or all wheels? 4) power steering - just use a turkey baster? Thanks!

Got a goulds kit and going to tackle the pump seal issue. Got the video and i know how to do it. The problem is none of the videos or anything tell me the best way to actually remove the pump and PS unit from the truck. I know to do it as one unit, but you guys that have done it, which way did you go? Out the bottom or top?