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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by Huskiemuskie,

    Thanks to a great set of instructions (by Mike) I just finished my high idle fooler modification. All of the switch functions appear to be working as advertised. I just have to have the software enabled... I would guess I have about 5-6 hours in building the wiring harness and install... Thanks again Mike!

  2. Started by johnrkipp,

    20 amp fuse is blown. replaced starter twice and replaced starter relay help.

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  3. Started by tsmithnw,

    OK gang i have so questions about the CPS. First off i have a miss at ideal and up to about 1100 after that smooth as glass. I have been through everything I even tried putting in my 225 HP injectors to see it my 150 hp are having some kind of issue. Had them tested and they came back good. I have taken every connection apart and cleaned them. I Then cleaned all my grounds and still the same. So all i can think of is the CPS. Issue number two while driving down the road my truck has a lot of engine noise. Then like magic it like the engine changes the timing. It is half as load and can only hear the turbo. Normally it seem to quiet down when i am pulling hills or when i a…

  4. Started by krj,

    I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. Any ideas?

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    • 9 replies
    • 1.7k views
  5. Started by wagntagn,

    Winter is around the corner we get to -40 farenheit some days ,I was thinking about going with Lucas 75w140 full synthetic instead of 85w90.the front diff is a M60/2 and rear M70/26 with anti spin.

    • 7 replies
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  6. I just got done ordering some RV275s from DAP. They have some really good prices and offered free shipping to Canada. I couldn't go wrong. I can't wait to see how much better it will run with them. My injectors are stock and have 456,000kms on them. I hope my auto trans is up to it I have changed out the HY turbo for the HX like you guys recommended and it helped, but looking for just a bit more power. My next move will be a Edge Comp box instead of the EZ. Thanks for all the good ideas I've learned here so far. You guys haven't steered me wrong yet.

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    • 16 replies
    • 1.8k views
  7. Started by MGEOD,

    First let me say hi, have read here plenty but just registered . I have a 2000 Dodge with a auto. Had it rebuilt a couple of months ago . My truck would drop into neutral if you slowed down . For example if you were coming to a yield sign. My nephew has a trans shop and he built it for the cost of parts so it didn't cost me a lot of money to build. My problem now is ( and they are having a hard time figuring it out). It shifts crazy at times and times it just fine. Trans has been pulled and went thru to make sure something didn't go wrong with the build . We put new parts , torque converter, PCM, and valve body with a shift kit . I have read about the O D problem but my …

    • 3 replies
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  8. Started by Rwilson,

    Hello all, I'm new to the site/forum and thought I would introduce myself and get right in to the mix.My name is Ron, I'm from CA, and I love to put cummins motors in trucks they didn't belong in.I have a complete donor 2001 cummins 24 valve. I actually have the whole truck. I put the engine,trans, and transfer case in a 2001 Chevy 3500HD. My question is, im doing the wiring right now and I have the truck runningbut i have absolutely no throttle at all. idle only. im wiring from the c130 connector and im using the factory ecm and pcm for the 24v. i have a light green/black wire that in my schematic needs 12v in start run position. But when I hook it up to switched power t…

    • 6 replies
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  9. Started by tsmithnw,

    I need someone with a smarty programmer that lives with in 100 miles of Wenatchee, WA. I called the amazing dealership to have then flash my 1998.5 24v to get the high idle and 3 cylinder turned on and they had no idea or clue what i was talking about and basically told me they cant help me. But they could take a look for 75 bucks and see what they can figure out. I will be going to Boise the day after thanksgiving so any takers on using a smarty on on my truck please.

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    • 10 replies
    • 1.8k views
  10. Started by krj,

    Just installed new injectors, Big Line Kit and Isspro fuel gauge.Fired her up yesterday & happily watched my fuel pressure climb to 12. After a short test drive and check over I noticed 2 small fuel leaks. One up top of filter where the needle valve is, was hoping this was just due to the Permatex thread sealer I used not being dry yet. The other is at the other end and seems to be coming from the push-lock fitting. Very small, couldn't see it but when I felt around the fitting my hand came away with diesel on it.I was going to take it to work today (50 mile round trip) and see what happens.Just fired her up and fuel pressure was only 4. I nervously watched for a…

    • 7 replies
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  11. so I just picked up a 90' VE pumped 12 valve motor for $1500. Im going to swap out my 24 valve with this motor .few reasons, miledge, relyabilty, and next to no electronics!I know its a direct swap, Im just hoping there is a way to retain my factory gauges? Also has any body seen this done to our body style yet?and what are your guys' thoughts? dont knock me to to bad! Im just sick of these constant codes, poor miledge, constantly worrying about my fuel pressure, and how everything is sooo expensive for these motors!

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    • 9 replies
    • 1.5k views
  12. I got some pieces from Eric @ Vulcan and they worked out great. Anytime I open the fuel system I have to bleed the injectors and then have leaky connections for a few days. I got a ball valve and a few other parts to keep the pressure in the pump. Parts list part # 2: 1/2 push lock x 1/2 mnpt pom188 1: 1/8" mpt half union 31482 1: 1/4" sae cap 31992 1: 3/8" npt ball valve 06vlv 1: push lock T 1/2" aluminum plt8 He said a few parts werent listed on his site. I changed all my fuel line today and closed the valve off. When I got done I bumped the s…

  13. Started by mountaindan,

    What is the easy to get water out of the fuel tank? without removeing the tank

  14. Started by Philo Beddoe,

    I had to relocate to Germany for work and my truck has been sitting for a year. Its been parked in a garage in northern california. I will be headed home in December for a month and hopefully will be driving it and installing gauges...etc. Its a 98.5 24v auto and had no problems before I left. I think there is about 5- 10 gallons of fuel in it.Batteries were fine when I left, I took them out of the truck. Will they be toast or can I top them off with distilled water and put a charge to them?I plan on: Fuel filter, oil/filter change, brake fluid, & coolant flush. So my question is - if this was your truck, how would you go about firing it up and running it? Should I du…

  15. Started by FiveNine,

    I am trying to figure out who to buy an Injection pump from. Most are right around $1,000 give or take $50. I had planned to buy a stealth plate and injector nozzles along with the pump... However, It has been brought to my attention, that any sort of wire tap WILL void the warranty. I have been told that most places sell the same pump, so its areally all about who you like. I really like Moparman's set up with RV275 injectors, and Edge comp box. The comp box is a wire tap box, therefor, No warranty.Questions:1. Who have YOU bought a pump from, and how do you like it?2. How dangerous is a wire tap? 3. What is a good set up for a non-wire tap programmer? 4. I know you "Sho…

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    • 10 replies
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  16. Started by 7diamond,

    Looks like im going to be replacing the head gasket this next week. Any suggestions on where to get the gaskets from would be greatly appreciated.

    • 13 replies
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  17. Started by krj,

    Yeah, it's me again with more newbie questions... Installing my new RV275 injectors, before I bugger something up wanted to ask a question/get confirmation. My FSM says to push new injectors in by hand, and (in bold) NOT to use any additional tools to force them in. The install videos I've watched also say the same thing and show them popping right in. Well, that's not working, even with minimal additional mechanical help. Yes, all the injector tubes are out. Yes, I did put oil on the the new 'O' rings and the new copper washers are well seated and not slipping off. Yes the old copper washers are out as well. I double checked the receipt from Diesel Auto Power and i…

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  18. Started by WLong1978,

    hard to start now we have cooler temps. have checked out IAT , and volage is running at 5 volts. any ideas to why intake heater is not powering.

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    • 5 replies
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  19. Started by 24VTurbo,

    so I dont have a drip can, i just have a hose hanging down in front of my diff. and I have excessive blow by as far as im concerned for 60,000km.... is something plugged? or done wrong or is there a better set up? i have very high Oil pressure too. 100+ psi cold ( gauge only reads to 100 ) and 50-60 hot idleing. would that have something to do with it? not sure what to build/buy to make this more of a breather then undercoating my truck

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  20. Started by krj,

    All right, more newbie questions. Thanks in advance for the patience and info!I'm in the middle of replacing my vacuum/ps pumps. Also have a new set of injectors to install, as well as Big Line kit & fuel gauge. I was planning on doing each task individually, but after pulling the V & PS pumps out I realized how much easier it would be to get them back in with out the intake and APPS sensor in the way. Since they need to be removed for changing injectors, I'm wondering if there is any reason I can't pull them, re-install the V & PS pumps, install the Big Line kit, gauge, and new injectors, put everything back together, bleed the fuel system, fire her up, &…

    • 4 replies
    • 1.2k views