2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My truck is a early 1998.5. It dont have a vent tube in the front of the engine (puke bottle) is this common on the first 24 v?

http://york.craigslist.org/cto/3397995651.html I'm going to check out this truck on Sunday and was just wondering if you thought it was worth the price. It is now lowered to 18,900 but still seems a little high to me. I was thinking somewhere around 16k. 181,000 miles. Here's a list of the things that were done to it: Air Dog 150 K&N Cold Air Intake 18" XD Wheels with 33" ____ Cepek Mud Country's Bed Tool Box Head Unit Tow Mirrors Also Included: 5 Oil Filters 1 Air Dog Filter And a free oil change:thumbup2: It hasn't been chipped or anything and hasn't been used for towing, just a daily driver.

I know this has been hit on before but could not find it. Anyway I changed my oil the other day and the filter was full to the top, when I started unscrewing it it started leaking out. It was never that full in the past with my other motor, it was always about 3/4. This is my second filter change sence I put eng. in so dont know this motor as well as the other eng. Maybe thats a good thing If you knew my other motor you would get it.

So a little history on the truck its all stock no mods at all. Im driving the other day and my check gauges light came on, All the gauges looked fine except the voltage gauge. So the batteries have seen better days i got new ones. Installed those and the truck was fine until about 15 minutes driving it comes on again. I ordered a new alternator from oreillys and put that on. Still nothing. Im really confused as to what it is so i charged my batteries to get enough to where i could see the codes. Its throwing the p1698, p0252, p0234 codes. I also realized my Oil pressure gauge isnt reading nor is the voltage. Any help is greatly appreciated.Thank you.

Thanks to the forum for my birthday wishes. Hell, I'm 72 and just hope/wishes they keep coming around. Mohok in SC.

I know there was a thread that has a good source for the filter and hose but now that I'm looking, all I can find is the filter.

Passenger side firewall next to AFE intake I have a solenoid with a green and yellow wire to it, it has a vacuum line (I think) to it and a exhaust muffler. Can someone tell me what it is and what function it performs.

Has anyone repaired a terminal on the female side of the plug. Deustch connector. I have looked @ the website but I didn't find the repair of that 50 pin connector.

So I just got my used Edge comp box installed and took it for a test drive. I haven't put the stealth cover on yet so pump isn't tapped yet. When I got home after test drive I shut it off and restarted it. The voltage was dropping down and then coming back so I got a testlight and checked the heater grids. It was turning them on one at a time for at least a minute or longer. The engine was fully warmed up and at halfway on the gauge. Is this normal? I have never really paid attention to it before. Could the Comp box be causing this? Where is the Air intake temp sensor located? I may clean or replace it.

Hi, I have a 2001 dodge ram 2500 4x4 vin 6 truck , and need to know turbo model number, looks like my waste gate si stuck or damage. According to my bluetooth scanner the turbo pressure is around 29 psi when idle and up to 37 psi when reaches 2100 rpms. I had the sensor replace because low voltage code p235 (I believe this was the code number) and I was able to duplicate intermitent signal data dropping all the way to 12 psi. But even before I had sensor replace on idle it was showing 29 psi. Regaridng turbo ID I could see some numbers inthe front side but I was expecting something that leads me to HX35 or HY35.

Started noticing fuel dripping from the fuel filter. Looks like it is coming from in between the top of the cannister and the side. I have taken the top of the cannister off the block, looked for cracks and debris. Then I put a new filter on and it is still leaking. I don't know if the manufacturer is putting in smaller o-rings or what. Any suggestions?If I can't figure this out, looks like I will be putting a new filter setup on the truck and removing the factory cannister.

On our way home from a road trip today, cruised for about an hour and a half at 70mph. We got off the highway and go to take off from the stop, and it takes off in second gear and would not shift. I pull over and check the fluid, it looks fine, smells fine. I take off, and now it does not have first gear, but seems to shift/run fine in all other gears. I did notice a week ago that it would hunt @ 45 mph alittle. Thinking maybe the govn solenoid in the trans has gone out...I think I might change the oil and filter, been @ 50k since it was done. And change the two solenoids in the trans, and cross my fingers....Any other ideas?

I am changing the thermostat in my truck today and didn't know whether or not to put some sealer on the bolts for the thermostat housing.

Thanks to a great set of instructions (by Mike) I just finished my high idle fooler modification. All of the switch functions appear to be working as advertised. I just have to have the software enabled... I would guess I have about 5-6 hours in building the wiring harness and install... Thanks again Mike!

20 amp fuse is blown. replaced starter twice and replaced starter relay help.

OK gang i have so questions about the CPS. First off i have a miss at ideal and up to about 1100 after that smooth as glass. I have been through everything I even tried putting in my 225 HP injectors to see it my 150 hp are having some kind of issue. Had them tested and they came back good. I have taken every connection apart and cleaned them. I Then cleaned all my grounds and still the same. So all i can think of is the CPS. Issue number two while driving down the road my truck has a lot of engine noise. Then like magic it like the engine changes the timing. It is half as load and can only hear the turbo. Normally it seem to quiet down when i am pulling hills or when i a…

I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. Any ideas?

Winter is around the corner we get to -40 farenheit some days ,I was thinking about going with Lucas 75w140 full synthetic instead of 85w90.the front diff is a M60/2 and rear M70/26 with anti spin.

I just got done ordering some RV275s from DAP. They have some really good prices and offered free shipping to Canada. I couldn't go wrong. I can't wait to see how much better it will run with them. My injectors are stock and have 456,000kms on them. I hope my auto trans is up to it I have changed out the HY turbo for the HX like you guys recommended and it helped, but looking for just a bit more power. My next move will be a Edge Comp box instead of the EZ. Thanks for all the good ideas I've learned here so far. You guys haven't steered me wrong yet.

First let me say hi, have read here plenty but just registered . I have a 2000 Dodge with a auto. Had it rebuilt a couple of months ago . My truck would drop into neutral if you slowed down . For example if you were coming to a yield sign. My nephew has a trans shop and he built it for the cost of parts so it didn't cost me a lot of money to build. My problem now is ( and they are having a hard time figuring it out). It shifts crazy at times and times it just fine. Trans has been pulled and went thru to make sure something didn't go wrong with the build . We put new parts , torque converter, PCM, and valve body with a shift kit . I have read about the O D problem but my …