2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,742 topics in this forum
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So I'm replacing the front fenders on my 01 Ram 2500 quad cab, I know there a huge pain to replace. My question is I'm wondering which would be better if I re-welded the new fenders in or just secured them with nuts and bolts? Let me know what you guys think or if anyone has done this.
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I picked up another 12V power outlet in the yard and want to replace my cig lighter with it since I dont smoke. I cut the panel upto get the other one out. How do you remove the lighter without destroying the panel? FSM says external snap ring pliers put I cant find any that work. In the FSM it looks like the pins on the pliers point away from ech other. Never seen a set like this.
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ok heres the deal a guy that has a shop by me bought these bilstien 4600 shocks for a customers 2001 ram 2500 4 wd with a 2inch lift but from what im reading i dont know if they will fit my 1999 ram 2500 with a 2 inch lift anyone know? maybe part numbers? i can get these for a nice price this guy never showed up and paid for everything like a year ago
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Here is the story: Front brakes grinding. I know I'm goingto find metal to metal. I open it up and....metal on metal. . I did reading in my manual and postedon a site and found out that with the 4x4 hub and such that thisisn't just as simple as a 2wd set up. I find the trick to use asocket and extension to help ease off the rotor and hub assembly. I got the axle nut off or rather, loosened(they were easy.I don't know if someone didn't tighten them back up after servicingbefore or what). But I've got big issues now. I loosened all the nuts and put thesocket and extension on the top one on the front side. I had the wifeturn the wh…
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Anyone know a good place to get these as well as the covers ? Assuming its just a straight gasket with essentially a dust cover on top ? Don't want billet but what's best ? W&f ? --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?r3a3i0
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Question...has anyone with airbags ever removed the bottom most leaf in the pack? I'm just brainstorming ideas...Here is a photo of the leaf. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Today while driving my ABS & Brake light both came on. It stayed on until I shut the truck off for a little bit. I started it back up & started driving no lights, then all at once they're back on. Turn the truck off, start back driving same deal. Whats going on and what do I do to fix it. Brakes still seem good.
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Does anybody have a diagram of the steering column, I have bearings going out or something going wrong in there. I tryed a search but no luck, maybe I am spelling it wrong
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I replaced it and now the airbag light wont go off. Cruise control works just fine. Course the bearing is going out now.:doh:Will it go out eventually after so many warm up's?
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I know this topic has been beat to death, but i really need some help with my fuel pressure gauge. A few months ago I purchased an Isspro ev2 fp gauge, autometer snubber, and bigline kit. I install everything, and from day one the gauge has flucktuated. At idle in continuously goes back and forth from 20-18 psi and wot 14-16 psi. After doing a little research I found many recommend that a needle valve be used. i have been putting it off because after the install a had a hard time getting the truck to start probably due to air in the lines. The bigline kit replaces the banjo bolt at the vp44 with a tapped 90 degree fitting. I installed the snubber in the tapped 90 degree f…
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I added dye to the a/c late summer last year, and can not keep this thing charged. I am in process of changing out the evaporator. I checked out the evaporator with a uv light, and did not see anything light up on the evaporator. I followed all the lines as best I could, and can not find anything blaring out. The engine block does look like it has a haze on it from the a/c dye, but can not be sure. Has anyone ever had this issue before?
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About to ditch the Glowshift from the previous owner for a ISSPRO mechanical and have a question. When I'm plumbing the new gauge do I just leave the line after the needle valve full of air, or do I need to bleed it somehow so it fills with diesel?
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Does anyone know what size vacuum line it is that runs across the back of the valve cover to the elbow that goes into the firewall. I broke mine in the process of adjusting valves and removing the heater hoses from the heater core. Looking to replace it with a rubber hose possibly. Need to know what size to use to accomplish that.Thanks -
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Ok...I replaced both front hubs a few weeks ago. I have only driven it once since...Iv'e been waiting to get the money for the tie rod and drag link...blah blah. Well, I noticed I had diff fluid coming out of the axle tube on the pass side...leaking all over the bottom ball joint. I took everything back apart and cleaned the best I could in the tube before putting the axle back in. I put it all back together but I don't know if it will seal this time. It appears there is a seal close to the diff that seals around the inner axle. Hopefully it was just some debris keeping it from sealing properly. If not...I guess I need to change that rubber seal...anyone ever done this?
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What part is this in the HVAC box. Mine is a little broken on the one side of it. I don't know if I need to replace this part, or if it o.k to run with it having a piece broke off.
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I'm able to buy the original CI-4 oil without any CJ-4 oil additives or lack of them for my 2 older diesels:thumbup2: :hyper:However, I don't like standing on a ladder holding a 5 gallon bucket over my engine with a giant funnel. It won't work. :doh:So what oil transfer pumps you guys got or use? Or better yet, what are some of the tricks you guys do with bulk containers?TIA
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Recently picked up a 1999 Dodge 5.9L Turbo Dually. Good friend retiring gave me a great deal. It has 350k miles on it and as far as I know no lift pump,which I just learned about here when I signed up and I don't recall him saying anything about 2cycle which I learned here on my first day to. I know how to do quite a bit with engines of all sorts but I was wondering If I should or shouldn't have a garage do the 170k maintenance recommended i.e the trans work. I have a check engine light on which the said is the APPS. I have the Haynes and changing it out seem straight forward enough???Also ABS light comes on intermittently and I can see I need new shocks. No questio…
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Anyone know which wire needs 12v to control window up and same for down ? Trying to work out if it's my wiring or the solenoid/motor etc --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=32.807100,-80.107988
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Well I tried using the members ride page but it would not let me post on my stuff. Also I like hearing opinions about my truck so Ill make a blog here and just copy what Ive done to here from cummins form then keep it up to date! --- Update to the previous post... Well its been a month or so Ive not been on DB. Been to busy with finals and work. But I thought instead of a bunch of posts about what all I did to the truck Ill just make one super giant post. First off I finally got my sound system installed to the truck. A sony Headunit with usb and aux inputs 6X9 Rockford fosgate 3 ways in the doors 6.5 Rockford fosgate 3 ways in the back doors (I bi…
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if I go with a hbs 2in. leveling kit do I need to address anything else in the front end as far as dropping sway bar and such trying to figure this out and do on a budget I think im going with the ranchos as far as shocks go and the steering bow stabilizer from custom diesel any thoughts?
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