2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

Recently my egts have been dropping down to 100-110 at idle. They drop really fast. They used to have a hard time getting down to 300 before I installed injectors. Not sure if this is normal. Even after pulling into a gas station they are down where before I would have to wait a bit or let the timer do the shutdown. Not sure if I have a bad probe or this is normal or something else. Seems strange to me and thinking something is wrong.

I was in a panic when my fuel pressure went down to 5psi. Went to O'Riely's and spent $53 on a cheap Chinese pressure gauge with all kinds of adapters for most likely any vehicle. Second time I used it the piece in the middle that presses the schrader valve fell out and would no longer test. I took it back and got my money returned. Ordered one from Vulcan Performance. Was here the next day and cost $54. Nice liquid filled gauge that only goes to 30psi and has a 6' hose. You could route it into the cab if wanted. It's got a turn valve that depresses or not the schrader insert. Unscrew the gauge from the hose and you've fgot a great bleeder system and can bleed into a…

Where is the most reliable place to send in oil to have it tested? I have never done it before and would like to start checking it every so often. Is there any other fluids that should be tested? Thanks! I have done the antifreeze flush but not the break system or diffs

Mike came over to my place and helped me do a couple projects. We upgraded my turbo from HY to HX. We also installed 275 injectors and did a valve adjustment. Did this in about 3 hours. Tomorrow I'll hook up my trailer and see what difference it makes. He also flashed me with his smarty. Now I'm ready for the high idle kit.

I am suspicious that I might have a fuel bleed down between lift pump & engine. I've noticed oily spot on the ground where truck was parked this winter. I'm not able to get under the truck myself anymore... as per my signature have AD 150 & big rubber lines.

Would I have any luck painting the back half of my turbo and the turn down elbow on the back of the turbo to the exhaust pipe. Mine is pretty rusty. Does the temperature of these items typically exceed the ability of high temperature paint?

My fuel pressure has been doing weird things. Running 8psi cold (42*) and gradually gets higher as outside temp and engine temps come up. But overall it's been falling. Running 15psi warm. I kicked up the pressure to 15 cold and now goes up to 22psi warm. A better range. But a month ago it was low consistent and I raised it back up. Sound like a raptor issue? I also have a vibration/buzz coming through my cab gauge. Isspro with snubber from vulcan. It quiets down if I pull it out a half inch or so. The gauge has a vibration that you can feel if you pull it clear out of the pillar. I don't have a test gauge. I'll check with a few locals to see if they have one.

I originally was going to start this thread asking for help, but I seem to have fixed the issues inadvertently. Here is the issues. My cruise control had been acting up of late. At first the cruise would act like it was backing off and then re accelerating. Very much like lightly lifting the throttle and easing it back on. Seemed to be doing it after about an hour of it being turned on. As time passed it got much worse and was actually cutting out in in harshly. So much so I just shut it off. Then out of the blue it would work just fine. The throttle itself worked fine thru all of this. Also during this time the idle up feature when releasing the clutch seemed to not …

I just got my hands on the latest and greatest fuel pump. I will post up on here when I get the install done. I dont want ed and mike to be the only ones who get to tease.

After reviewing the size of our stock exhaust system's are, I am now trying to find out the point of going to a 4" or even a 5" exhaust system for performance. Now, sound is one thing, but performance, I don't understand the logic. It is simple, and maybe I am oversimplifying this (someone tell me otherwise) but if you have a 3" exhaust flange coming off of the stock HX35 or HY35 exhaust housing, how is putting a 4 or 5" down pipe work when the choke point of the exhaust is 3", then going to a 4" or 5" going to help you move exhaust gases better? I come from drag racing, I always have and It has always been gas, not diesel. Most of the same principles apply…

Is there a system or composite of components that I can cut and install onto my stock 3" piping and using clamps rather than welding? More noise is acceptable, but cab drone at hiway speeds not too obnoxious.

Put an hx on a couple of weeks ago and not impressed with it campared to the hy. Am I missing something? I had a turnbuckle on the hy and have the edge boost elbow on the hx. The Hx seems to be a lot slower boosting up, running hotter and taking a lot longer to get down to 350 for shutdown. All of this while driving empty. Will it perform better under load? I am concerned for when I put the 13000 lb fifth wheel behind it. While cruising at 60 empty I am at 5lb boost and running around 750-800 with the juice on 3x5. Seems hot to me. The hy was around 7lb boost and 700 if I remember correctly. I am not see the advantages. I am wanting to get some rv's or some +50 injectors …

1. What is the best place to get a front hub assembly on a 2001 2wd 3500? Mine is howling like crazy and I suspect is part of the ABS problem I am having. 2. I looked but couldn't find what type of power steering fluid my truck needs. What brand or type of power steering fluid can I use? Synthetic? Availability? Sorry for the newb questions Thanks in advance!

Well after doing some driving with the new pyrometer I feel like my EGTs are a bit higher than they should be. Accelerating to 65-70mph by the time I get there I am around 900+ easy. If I do the same going up hill then I can reach 1100+ which is what bothers me. Mind you this is completely empty. Is this normal?? I am not lasting through the gears, I shift around 16-2000rpms depending on grade of hill. Anyways what do you guys think?

I have a fass 95 that was put on in October of 2013. After about a month my fuel pressure will start bouncing all over the place. I call fass to do some troubleshooting and they send me a new ball and spring for the return line to the tank. I am on my 3rd ball and spring in this short time. It is not my daily driver. I only average about 5000 mile a year with most of them being summer miles. The first couple of times that I have change the ball and spring I had to take the diesel bath. This time my return line was dry. Is the pump working properly? I don't understand what is going on. I plan on calling them tomorrow but want to see if anyone else has had this problem or …

Has anyone run a Torque converter lockup controller like the BD TorqLoc or the done the torque converter lockup mod? If so how did you like it? when did it work best? The reason for asking is I have built my trans with a SunCoast stage 3 kit and when I'm driving around town or say under 50mph i leave the Overdrive off and everything feels good. But when I'm getting on the highway to go over 50 I turn the overdrive on and it feels like I will hit the overdrive gear at about 45 and my EGT's climb while the boost falls off. Im just trying to figure out if the torque converter I bought isn't doing what it should or if the trans is having an issue holding the gears or if mayb…

I added an in-line filter behind my raptor pump. I found that there was no in let screens on the pump. But my fuel pressure at Idol had dropped from 20 to 15. So I guess after this exercise my only course of action was to adjust up the fuel pressure. What are the symptoms of a raptors declining health? Is slowly losing pressure a concern? Is regular maintenance of any kind recommended? I noticed that the pump came with a large and small O-ring for resealing. I am hoping to beat the raptor failure inevitability.

Anyone done this to their truck? Which kit would you recommend? Thanks.... Even a one mile to the gallon gain will pay back these hubs in 14,000 miles. I think it's worth doing. I hear complains on the stock set up anyhow... leavin' guys stranded 50 miles from nowhere etc. unable to get to a dealer for parts.

I am installing a fuel filter behind the Raptor pump. I'll be adding isolation valves so that the filter can be serviced with minimal loss of fuel. Will I need to bleed any air out of the system at the engine if I'm working behind the pump?

Has anyone ever ran into the oil pressure gage reading 40 psi all the time when the key is on? The engine not running and still reading 40 psi on the gage in the dash. Drops to 0 when the key is off, already replaced the pressure sensor and no change with issue.