Good Morning all,

well it seems like every 6 months or so this issue returns,

i just slayed that dragon last night and its really getting old. my battery clamps are not going to take much more of this before needing to replace them

 

so here is the low down on the recent findings,

the Ground on the primary battery has the acid build up, the other three did not.

the problem was only presenting itself at speed between 40 and 50 (in the past, this would happen at any speed above 40mph in OD)

 

i have a switch that i can use to kill my alternator (story for another time) so i killed it thinking it could be related to the alternator and the heat we been having. nope issue was still present, i know the alternator shutdown cause the voltage dropped to 12.8 volts

 

 

so what i did to fix the issue,

1) I cleaned the drity post, test drive, same issue. 

2) cleaned the other three, in turn resetting the ECM etc. calibrated the apps, issue was gone

 

so with the alternator out of the system, what would else would be back feeding noise into the system.

i have concluded that cleaning the posts promote a clean power source, and reason the problem goes away.

blame it on the engineering side of me, i want to find the cause.

I know some have seen results with adding the filter, and i may end up breaking down and installing one, but something has to be behind this issue..

Thoughts?

 

Thanks.

 

APPS voltages jumping up and down will confuse the PCM and make the TC unlock.

gonna agree with Tfaoro.  

 

That or brake switch.  if the truck sees brake switch engage it will unlock.

APPS voltages jumping up and down will confuse the PCM and make the TC unlock.

I can see that being a symptom, and would fall in line with my latest result set.  but not the cause, i guess i need to study the schematics.

I do know its repeatable, and when it shows up, i either find dirty battery clamps (every 6 to 8 months) or a loose clamp.

 

its not the brake switch, i would see that in the brake controller staring at my

 

keep them coming..

 

I have a feeling this is going to drive me to a manual conversion LOL

That's it as far as I know. Noise, apps voltage jumps, and brakes. Nothing else should be affecting the system. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though.....

no you have summed it up, i am just looking for ideas that would cause these symptoms

1) noise (must likely cause because of the finding with the clamps) and maybe the only solution is to police the clamps closer

2) voltage jumps. (not sure on this one, it would need more testing)

 

Now i wonder how likely it is for the Apps to loose calibration over time. and the real solution was not cleaning the clamps but recalibrating the APPS after wards.

i can test this the next time the issue presents its self by resetting the ECM and recalibrating the apps with out touching the clamps, IIRC there is a fuse i can pull that will reset the ECM, any one know if this is fact?

Edited July 21, 20159 yr by cbrew

If both batteries are disconnected you must recalibrate the APPS.

understood, as explained above, this is want ended up addressing the issue (so far),,,

I can see that being a symptom, and would fall in line with my latest result set.  but not the cause, i guess i need to study the schematics.

I do know its repeatable, and when it shows up, i either find dirty battery clamps (every 6 to 8 months) or a loose clamp.

 

its not the brake switch, i would see that in the brake controller staring at my

 

keep them coming..

 

I have a feeling this is going to drive me to a manual conversion LOL

WELL THERES YOUR ANSWER:  Replace your battery cable ends and terminals: keep them clean and tight.. apps and PCM are real sensitive to A/C noise levels. any ground wires, leads or terminals that are less than perfect condition can provide the perfect path for this...

no you have summed it up, i am just looking for ideas that would cause these symptoms

1) noise (must likely cause because of the finding with the clamps) and maybe the only solution is to police the clamps closer

2) voltage jumps. (not sure on this one, it would need more testing)

 

Now i wonder how likely it is for the Apps to loose calibration over time. and the real solution was not cleaning the clamps but recalibrating the APPS after wards.

i can test this the next time the issue presents its self by resetting the ECM and recalibrating the apps with out touching the clamps, IIRC there is a fuse i can pull that will reset the ECM, any one know if this is fact?

NOT THAT OFTEN,  Most of time you'll have a code if apps is out of range but every time you disconnect the batteries you will need to recalibrate the APPS

Edited July 21, 20159 yr by rburks

WELL THERES YOUR ANSWER:  Replace your battery cable ends and terminals: keep them clean and tight.. apps and PCM are real sensitive to A/C noise levels. any ground wires, leads or terminals that are less than perfect condition can provide the perfect path for this...

yes but what is the source of this noise, if you revisit the data in the threat, i have cut the alternator out and the problem persisted.     the cleaning is required every 6 months and if the clamp is not seated right afterwards, it will loosen up and that requires rework

Edited July 21, 20159 yr by cbrew

NOT THAT OFTEN,  Most of time you'll have a code if apps is out of range but every time you disconnect the batteries you will need to recalibrate the APPS

 the only time my scan gauge will pull a code is when i lost my VP last year. that is the head scratchier

my battery terminals haven't been off in 2-3 years and there clean. the bad terminal clamps are where the corrosions is coming from. AS for A/C Noise , it can come from more than one place,not just the alternator and if you didn't unplug it, that still doesn't rule it out,,IMO

Edited July 21, 20159 yr by rburks

my battery terminals haven't been off in 2-3 years and there clean. the bad terminal clamps are where the corrosions is coming from. AS for A/C Noise , it can come from more than one place,not just the alternator and if you didn't unplug it, that still doesn't rule it out,,IMO

correct something is causing the corrosion, I get that, the first time i cleaned them, I had to remove a black crust, there is something that causes that, as for noise, the alt was scoped and the peaks was less then 10 mvolts at idle. and 0 with cut on my fluke.   it may just come down to needing to replace the batteries. you talk about an engineering failure.

Subscribed. We've cleaned my transmission plugs and tightened up the battery terminal cables and it will solve the problem for a week or so. I most recently removed my LED tail lights and went back to factory, wiring and all, and that seems to have helped the issue the most so far. I'm going to clean my grounds this weekend and install a Timbo APPS and see if this helps.  I got the apps noise filter from Genos garage in case we can't get it straightened out

Edited July 30, 20159 yr by Botlebruiser

If the noise filter solves your issue you need to replace your alternator.  Don't run the filter as it is a bandaid.  Fix the issue, the truck ran without on for year, it shouldn't need one now.

Subscribed. We've cleaned my transmission plugs and tightened up the battery terminal cables and it will solve the problem for a week or so. I most recently removed my LED tail lights and went back to factory, wiring and all, and that seems to have helped the issue the most so far. I'm going to clean my grounds this weekend and install a Timbo APPS and see if this helps.  I got the apps noise filter from Genos garage in case we can't get it straightened out

 

Did you unplug alt. and see if issue went away??

If the noise filter solves your issue you need to replace your alternator.  Don't run the filter as it is a bandaid.  Fix the issue, the truck ran without on for year, it shouldn't need one now.

I think you have me mixed up with one of the other guys. I bought my truck knowing the transmission was shot. Firepunk built me a trans and it ran ok for a month or so as far as the lockup issue went. But then it started happening. I realize its a bandaid but I have to get back and fourth to work. I will replace the alternator if need be for sure. In 3 months the truck got a rebuilt trans, brand new head, valve springs and studs, wheel bearing, starter, wheels tires, programmer etc haha. I'll take care of it. I just don't want to throw parts at it as a trouble shooting method. It doesn't do it consistently enough typically to unplug the alternator. I would have to pull over and unhook it when it started doing it. I just can't do that on my way to work which is what most of my driving consists of. But that is good to know, if the filter resolves it I'll know for sure I need to replace the alternator. There's good info on this site.

Yep,

 

The problem with letting the issue persist is not only are you causing the lockup issue from time to time, but the much more important issue is you are feeding you very costly ECM bad power.  

 

A new clean power source is a lot less money than trying to source a new ECM.  

 

Food for thought.

if the filter resolves it I'll know for sure I need to replace the alternator. There's good info on this site.

 

I HIGHLY suggest against using any noise filters...

 

What you may do is protect the PCM from the noise but end up killing the VP44, ECM, ABS and other computers with bad power. No, There is no way to properly filter the alternator other than replacement because the diodes are fried.

 

Update

 

well since the time of the start of this thread, the issue returned. after doing more research. I have concluded that my batteries after 13 years are due for a replacing.

 

but with as many times as i had to clean the posts, the lead clamps have seen better days.

so far  i have not found any off the self replacements for the cable. i keep getting (they will need to be custom made)

 

I have found these, anyone using them ?

at Genos

my thought with using these is to cut the old end off, strip the wire back, tin it and this install and seal with shrink wrap

 

 

i did some more trouble shooting and completely ruled out the alternator.

there is only a 20mv difference at the battery's with and with out the alternator. the TC issue was present with and without the alternator in the system

I cut the alternator by cutting the sample power and removing the 140amp fuse.

 

this is what the primary ground clamped looked like after a few weeks. the issue went away with a complete cleaning and apps resetting.

 

i also uploaded a picture of the tag on my batteries, if i am reading that right. they date back to 03/03/02

 

so new batteries are in order cause of the leaking and i want to address the clamp issue at the same time. so where is everyone buying new cables? or are they just replacing the clamps?

 

Thanks again

Edited August 11, 20159 yr by cbrew