Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
Hi all! It's soon ball joint time for me. In my research some say you need a $300+ tool set to do them. If that's the case I might as well pay a shop to do it but I like to do my own work. I've never done these but I did on my F2504x4 and I remember the loaner tool from Advance didn't have big enough parts to handle a larger joint like that. I have access to an arbor press and can make cups and stuff in the machine shop. Do I really need a ball joint press? Can't I just take the nuts off and hammer the joint loose from the axle and then take the whole knuckle and put it in an arbor press? Is there a write-up anywhere on this or for those familiar can you give me a step by step or any tips like which to take out and put in first? Top or bottom. That way I won't spend so much time in trail and error. I'm not worried about getting the unit bearing and axle out, been there too many times, just the ball joint part. Thanks!