well... i just dumped $1500 in front suspension..... put in 100hp injectors ran fine lots of power.  running out of funds to dump in this truck.   Now that i had her running the way i want, i lost torque converter lockup.   Im not the greatest when it comes to transmission department.  but i dont feel the kick any more after 40 mph.  and at highway speeds i have very little power on my 5x5 setting .   i thought maybe my air filter (AFE pro dry) could be restricting becasue i noticed it has a few kinks in it like it imploded.   washed it out and dont feel any difference.     I have had locking/unlocking issues before and was advised by moparman to remove the noise filter......  well i had planned to but havent done that yet.  before i go installing a TC lockup switch i would like to know what im up against.   I have read many threads and not gathered what im looking for.   Does this mean my trans is shot?   it shifts through the gears fine i can get up to 80mph on level ground... rpms seem a little lower than usual.  trans temps seem to get hotter quicker 210 last time around traffic on a hot day (90deg)       thanks fellas  

 

fuel pressure is good 14psi 

filters are good

timbo apps new

batteries new

alternator is atleast 2 - 3yrs old

Edited September 10, 20159 yr by freedomisntfree

The intermittent nature may be a ground or connector. Hard to say.

 

Remember all main computers are grounded on the passenger side ground cable. There is no body grounds for the main computers. All body grounds are secondary systems like lights and horn etc. So to verify grounds you could do a voltage drop test for each circuit.

 

Could be a corroded connector or weak connection. Yankneck typically suggested loading each plug with di-electric grease and cycling the plug at least 3 times to hopefully get a good connection once again.

 

Still AC noise from a bad alternator could be causing part of this headache...

Going to go thru all the grounds when I get home this weekend. ... definitely gonna check out the alternator.... any suggestions on where to get an alternator that has been tested already for noise interference? ?

Do you still have the switch in ?

Is the TC locking up ?

Edited September 24, 20159 yr by JOHNFAK

Sorry for late response...  my switch is still in.  And seemed to work only sometimes.   Yesterday I unplugged the alternator wire and drive and now everything Eems to work sweeeeet....  for the time I drove with it disconnected.   I'm on my way to get another alternator. Tired of dealing with this.  I going to have the alternator shop test it and test their own as well 

well   replaced the alternator.   and seems to be alot better.   but i need a for sure fix to this, im maxed out on the Fun meter with this issue.  also replaced the air filter .   

Can someone tell me the symptoms of bad governor pressure switch and sensor?  i feel like my torque converter locks good sometimes  and sometimes it does not lock fully.   i know its working i can see rpms not drop fast when i let off the gas   sometimes it has good power and sometimes im embarassed to pass i feel like im smoking everyone out and not going far.   when the overdrive kicks in i used to feel some good thrust and not as much most of the time .   upgraded turbo , 100hp injectors , cold air, edge comp ,        .... i would think i would have alot more power 

Burnouts is not my thing neither is smoking people out....   but i tried to do a power brake for sh!ts and giggles and i could barely build any boost.   i tried a different day and seems like i build boost ok...   

it is difficult for me to get my truck to a good shop because of my work schedule .    my last resort is AAMCO.  but my luck is they have it for a day and tell me truck is fine..    i would pay some good money to have someone here local help me out.  i have dumped lots of money in this thing lately not to have power on demand.   im doing another long roadtrip pretty soon and need to have some peace of mind everything is running the way supposed to .    she hasnt let me down yet...  but ....

last thing, the only thing i remember messing with prior to is the tv cable, to change my 1st to 2nd  shift point from annoying 2200rpms to 1700 rpm.   

thnx in advance fellas  

Edited November 30, 20159 yr by freedomisntfree
add info

A STOCK valve body will lock up (with a lockup switch) in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. The one exception is that it will not allow lockup in MANUAL 2nd gear.

Once the TCC is on, and the transmission has upshifted into 3rd gear and then 4th, the 2-3 and 3-4 shift valves are hydraulically locked in their upshifted positions (ie. the VB can't shift back down into 3rd or 2nd until the converter unlocks). As you come to a stop with the switch still on, the converter won't unlock until governor pressure diminishes to the point where a 2-1 downshift occurs, which is usually pretty much right as you come to a stop. At that point, it will release 4th, 3rd and 2nd in rapid succession, and the converter will unlock...but it all hinges on that 2-1 downshift to exhaust the oil that is locking the converter and holding the shift valves in the upshifted position. What you will feel in the truck if you don't turn off the switch is that you will be coming to a stop still locked in the highest gear that you had achieved (most likely 4th...), and the engine will likely stall before everything lets go after the 2-1 downshift.

In short, a stock VB will allow a locked 2-3 and a 3-4 shift, but once the higher gear  is engaged, it won't allow a downshift until the TCC is turned off.

I don't mind a locked 3-4 upshift, but a 2-3 upshift (the only other shift that a stock VB will give you with the TCC locked) should be avoided. 

You can use a lockup switch with good effect on a stock valve body, but to really maximize its usefulness requires a few mods to the lower VB (OD/TCC) and separator plate.