First time poster long time listener. Last night I had a buddy flash my 2002 ram 3500 6speed 4x4 with his smarty to enable the high idle. The truck hasn't ran since last night, so this morning I tried what MoparMan said with the 100k ohm resistor and the intake air temp and the idle should ramp up within upto 5 minutes to make sure the feature is enabled. I sat and didn't touch anything and waited for it to do its magic. After 10 minutes of waiting it hasn't done anything. Since a few days ago the wait to start light works before starting but both heating elements wont run simultaneously based of watching the volt meter. When I hooked up the resistor the wait to start light stayed on for about 20 seconds and I started the truck up and the voltage didn't fluctuate as if it wasn't fooled.

I need some wisdom as to what could be going wrong, also sorry if this is in the wrong section.

Thanks in advanced, Jason.

100k would make the truck think it is well below zero.    I would be curious what IAT reads with that resistor.

 

A couple things will disable high idle

 

none idle state - could be due to a APP that reads 1% vs 0%

Brakes hit - could be a brake brake light switch

 

Since you have a Juice you can see what IAT temps are and what ECT temps are?

 

As for your grids, 

 

Do you know if one grid works?  Have you tested the relays?:

 

 

Sorry I updated my sig to my new truck I don't have the edge anymore but i will have one in a few months, as far as the grid I'm assuming that only one is working since the volts meter doesn't drop significantly, which i had learned today reading one of moparmans posts about the grid that there is 2 of them. I live in FL and its been getting down to the low 30's at night but since I testing with the resistor that shouldn't really matter. And to test the grids and brake light switch how would i go about testing them? Also if this helps my brake light always stays on along with the abs, and airbag lights. As far as app % how can i take a reading for that without my edge I've replaced the tps under the hood in the past and made sure i calibrated it to the correct volts via the install guide.

Be aware APPS position (or TPS value) doesn't mean IVS is in the right position. If you've got a stock APPS sensor with the voltage on the tag. The measured voltage should be BELOW the tag number to be in the IDLE position. At this point the ECM ignores the APPS voltage and uses only the internal software to idle or high idle. If the IVS is flopped the other direction the high idle with never start.

Edited January 7, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

Along with what Moparman and ME78569 said, the brake and ABS light staying on could have an affect on the situation as well.

Testing the grid heater relay manually:

First test the resistance of the grid heaters to ensure they are good. Mine show .001 ohms resistance. There are two studs on the right side of the heater, test each to ground to be sure they are good. If they are good go to the next step...

Make a jumper wire from battery to the signal side of the relay, test for 12V to the supply lines of the Grid heaters with DVOM. If you are getting 12V to the grid heaters, the relays are working.