What I have done: 1. #6 Fuel Plate - Full Forward 2. Boost Elbow 3. 4" Full Exhaust 4. TC Lockup Switch 5. BHAF http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1002dp_1994_to_1998_dodge_ram_power_recipes/1500_budget.html What I'm thinking of doing (in order): 1. Timing 2. 3K RPM Springs 3. Injectors I'm expecting my trans to blow up, so that will give me an excuse to go to a manual or build the 47rh. What I don't want to do is blow the head gasket, so I don't want so much power that requires me mod the head or valve springs.

Ok... Looks like a good plan for power but as for head work then you want to limit your boost to 40-45 PSI tops. You could drop in everythiing you got there just control your fuel with the plate and AFC. Timing would be great advantage for you too! I'm sure ISX will step in and give you a hand...

Advancing the timing makes it snappier, gives you better mileage kinda, but also increases pressure in the cylinders. I am not sure at what rate but the more advanced the timing, the less your max boost should be in order to keep the head gasket in one piece. I am at 16.5* and run around 33psi max with no problems. I am not sure if the previous owner put 3K springs in mine or not but from all the youtube vids I compare with, I think he did. So it will give you fuel up to 3k instead of 2500 or where your defuels at. Sure is nice on mine.Injectors are above me. They will flow more and give you more power and all but you might find very excessive EGT's when you floor it if you are running stock turbo and keeping the boost under head gasket limits. The intake has a restriction where the 2 bolts go on either side of the tube and you can see where it cuts into the intake, so supposedly you get more flow and more boost response at lower rpms if you get an intake like CFM+ or something. My brother put 190 DV's in his stock 160 truck and it made a pretty good difference in it. But everything is linked. So just because the pump might put out more fuel, if you have stock injectors, they will now be your fuel limit. Your trans should blow up eventually, though the lock up does help a lot, but eventually you will just destroy the torque converter altogether, and since the rest of the trans will already be destroyed, it probably won't move very good :lol:If I were you, I would just do the 3k GSK to get a little more range out of it, and maybe advance the timing a little to make it a little snappier. I would skip injectors and maybe do the intake and delivery valves. Injectors are a leap into the next level of power so that's why I wouldn't touch them. The only reason I say delivery valves is because you have the 160HP pump which has tiny delivery valves, so 180 or 190's will get the flow back up closer to the 215HP 12 valves, which use 180 DV's stock.

you want to limit your boost to 40-45 PSI tops.

I'm seeing about 30-35 right now.

---------- Post added at 09:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:07 PM ----------

The only reason I say delivery valves is because you have the 160HP pump which has tiny delivery valves, so 180 or 190's will get the flow back up closer to the 215HP 12 valves, which use 180 DV's stock.

Great advice, I wouldn't have thought the delivery valves would be such a great upgrade.

So based on your feedback I think I've changed the order of my upgrades.

1. Timing

2. 3K RPM Springs

3. Delivery Valves

4. Intake

5. Injectors

I left the timing as a higher priority since it has the possibility of better MPG where the 3K springs have the opposite effect.

No mod will touch mileage, it's your foot that affects mileage. Well timing might help a little but other than that, the 3GSK, delivery valves, injectors, all of that will only give you the capability to get worse mileage than before, but it takes the same fuel to go 60mph regardless, and the same fuel to accelerate at a slow rate.. I haven't noticed any mileage difference from stock, to where my truck is now, but I drive very consistently so mileage is always the same. I think that order looks better. 30-35psi boost is all you should ever be getting out of the HX35, max. Beyond that it goes out of it's map and becomes very inefficient, building more heat than boost. Timingwise, I wouldn't go over 16, 15-16 is the sweet spot for mileage/power that is safe to go to without worrying about the head gasket.

I'm seeing about 30-35 right now.

My boost elbow is non-adjustable so I'm seeing nearly 35 PSI as well but with my RV275 (and Edge Comp) I've seen 1,500*F worth of pyro WOT... So I'm at my limit basically. I could get a adjustable elbow and tweak for a extra 5 PSI to hopefully knock that down but the HX35 turbo is basically at the end of its reach... Timing wil aid in the MPG game but your foot is the biggest factor. Like I run by a simple rule "keep you boost below 5 PSI ad pyro below 600*F and 20+ MPG can happen"

My boost elbow is non-adjustable so I'm seeing nearly 35 PSI as well but with my RV275 (and Edge Comp) I've seen 1,500*F worth of pyro WOT... So I'm at my limit basically. I could get a adjustable elbow and tweak for a extra 5 PSI to hopefully knock that down but the HX35 turbo is basically at the end of its reach... Timing wil aid in the MPG game but your foot is the biggest factor. Like I run by a simple rule "keep you boost below 5 PSI ad pyro below 600*F and 20+ MPG can happen"

i agree...i had a 96 with an automatic...3.54's and the sweet spot was between 60 and 65 m.p.h....under 2,000 r.pm. is where they sip fuel

Actually I think the sweet spot is about 30mph with the TC locked in overdrive and the engine at about 700RPMs while idling. :thumbup2:Of course you'd probably get run off the highway at that speeds, but I bet I could 30mpg.

Actually I think the sweet spot is about 30mph with the TC locked in overdrive and the engine at about 700RPMs while idling. Of course you'd probably get run off the highway at that speeds, but I bet I could 30mpg.

Not sure if that would work or not. I once ran 40mph everywhere and got worse than when I ran faster, there just comes a point where you are using more fuel turning the engine than you are gaining distance, like in 1st gear at 2000RPM you can see what I mean.. I don't think you could idle at 30mph anyways. Well I take that back, I put it in 4th and idle 20mph through this 25mph town that everyone does 20 through, pretty nice just letting off and watching it lug itself, but that's at about 600rpm there is a slight hill and I have to start giving it some fuel or it starts "chugging". It won't idle in 5th so I don't think 30 would be possible, unless you had 4.10's maybe. Either way, you would be better off with a steam engine at those RPM's.

I have 4.10 and 35s, or whatever the metric equivalent is. I think even the slightest hill would kill the mileage, because the rpms are so low that you'd have to lay into the throttle to go up anything, since the torque isn't so good at 700rpm's.The problem with running slower is you can't maintain that speed before you have to stop (lights, turns, or traffic). When you go to accelerate you loose anything you've gained.I think the best mileage you'll see if running on the highway at the slowest speed you can, without being a safety hazard, which is probably 55-60. That keeps the R's in the sweet spot around 1500.The best I've seen is about 15MPG in my pickup. I've never been able to run it on a full tank of gas without commuter, city, or towing miles.

I've found the economy band for the 24V is right around 1,500 to 2,000 PRMs. That about it... Below this and it just falls off above this and usually mother natures winds (wind drag) will kill it...

My boost elbow is non-adjustable so I'm seeing nearly 35 PSI as well but with my RV275 (and Edge Comp) I've seen 1,500*F worth of pyro WOT... So I'm at my limit basically. I could get a adjustable elbow and tweak for a extra 5 PSI to hopefully knock that down but the HX35 turbo is basically at the end of its reach...

Mike, anything over 35 PSI with either the HY or the HX you are doing nothing but heating the air.

Yeah... I got a adjustable boost elbow but it needs some work... It doesn't go over 25 PSI... Like my current elbow it varies between 30-32 PSI... I figured if I could reach the 35 mark constantly it would cut just that little bit of pyro heat at WOT... I relize 35 PSI and above its just hot air...

Yeah... I got a adjustable boost elbow but it needs some work... It doesn't go over 25 PSI... Like my current elbow it varies between 30-32 PSI... I figured if I could reach the 35 mark constantly it would cut just that little bit of pyro heat at WOT...

I need to get one for my 4BT. I put a HX35 with a 9cm ex. housing and I'm only seeing 9psi on it.:banghead:

Yeah... I got a adjustable boost elbow but it needs some work... It doesn't go over 25 PSI... Like my current elbow it varies between 30-32 PSI... I figured if I could reach the 35 mark constantly it would cut just that little bit of pyro heat at WOT... I relize 35 PSI and above its just hot air...

wonder why that is? sorry have not been around had to go to a weeks worth of traing for work..just got back:thumbup2:

What I have done: 1. #6 Fuel Plate - Full Forward 2. Boost Elbow 3. 4" Full Exhaust 4. TC Lockup Switch

1-Nice choice. 2-make sure you do have it set so it allows the wastegate to open between 35-40psi with the HX35/HY35/WH1C.Anything above that is only hot air and does you no good at all. 3-Nice upgrade,but,really wasn't neccessary for a truck under 400hp.You could have saved some cash and just removed the cat and got a better flowing muffler. 4-A must have,however,it will be hard on the factory convertor and you may want to consider the trans as next.

What I'm thinking of doing (in order): 1. Timing 2. 3K RPM Springs 3. Injectors 4. Intake 5. Delivery Valves

1-Be a good consideration,however,no more than 16-16.5 degrees with a stock headgasket or the added timing will cause early failure of the headgasket. 2-EVERY 12v truck should at least have these installed to free up the rpm band.4k's should be considered if you plan on o-ringing the head,studding it and using a better gasket later. 3-For what your looking for I would consider trying to find a owner who has a 96-98 5psd truck and buying their 215hp injectors.It will give your truck a nice kick in the pants and still allow managable EGT;s.A little internet research will find you someone who is looking to sell their stock stick injectors..I would not put any larger aftermarket injectors in a truck with the stock turbo and the head not done. 4-Intake.....Hmmm,what a dog and pony show they are.They are more for underhood bling than performance as many of todays intake horns will do nothing more than lighten your wallet.UNLESS your looking for extreme power with a 12v(500hp-Up)your factory air horn will do the job you want and need done.The restriction many "chirp" abaout is the grid heater assembly and there is no HP gained by removing it at all. Now if you talking about intake air boxes thats a deal where you decide what you want for looks and buy it.Many have had great results with the BHAF and they will handle the power level you want easily and at a good cost. 5-I would not make any changes to the DV"s unless your planning on a turbo upgrade due to EGT issues. Keep in mind ANY additional fueling mods you make you NEED to address the air side also.Without making a change to the exhaust housing to manage the EGT's or going to a different turbo all the fueling mods in the world will do not a bit of good and only create high heat issues.IMO you need to uprgae the trans before going any further but its your wallet and not mine.........andy

2-make sure you do have it set so it allows the wastegate to open between 35-40psi with the HX35/HY35/WH1C.Anything above that is only hot air and does you no good at all.

Never seen it go above 35 yet.

3-Nice upgrade,but,really wasn't neccessary for a truck under 400hp.You could have saved some cash and just removed the cat and got a better flowing muffler.

Stock pipes where swiss cheesed, and muffler was MIA, so I had to buy something. 4" may not be need now, but it probably will in the future , and I bought stainless, so I think I'll be stuck with it for a while.

3-For what your looking for I would consider trying to find a owner who has a 96-98 5psd truck and buying their 215hp injectors.It will give your truck a nice kick in the pants and still allow managable EGT;s.A little internet research will find you someone who is looking to sell their stock stick injectors..

I would not put any larger aftermarket injectors in a truck with the stock turbo and the head not done.

Great tip, thanks! How do I identify these? Is there a part marking/number on them?

4-Intake.....Hmmm,what a dog and pony show they are.They are more for underhood bling than performance as many of todays intake horns will do nothing more than lighten your wallet.UNLESS your looking for extreme power with a 12v(500hp-Up)your factory air horn will do the job you want and need done.The restriction many "chirp" abaout is the grid heater assembly and there is no HP gained by removing it at all.

That's what I had originally thought, besides I like that it looks stock under the hood.

Now if you talking about intake air boxes thats a deal where you decide what you want for looks and buy it.Many have had great results with the BHAF and they will handle the power level you want easily and at a good cost.

Actually already did this. I need to add that to my current mods.

IMO you need to uprgae the trans before going any further but its your wallet and not mine.........andy

I think with the current mods it's days are already limited. Now I have to decide do I build that or switch to a manual.

---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 AM ----------

Great tip, thanks! How do I identify these? Is there a part marking/number on them?

I found a post with the part numbers that I was asking about:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/find-14cm-wg-housing-t103385.html