Hammer

Its located under the decorative valve cover and easy to swap. I was surprised at the cost,over $100 out here in PA.

Dave does not build transmissions anymore, he refers you to one of his installers.Sent From The Outer Limits

I am trying to figure out why you would not have contacted Peter@SBC once you had the failed unit out of the truck instead of putting in the Valair junk?.With how SBC stands behind their units a call to him would probably have righted the issue and cost you less than the new unit you bought from the second rate clutch company.

1-Nice choice. 2-make sure you do have it set so it allows the wastegate to open between 35-40psi with the HX35/HY35/WH1C.Anything above that is only hot air and does you no good at all. 3-Nice upgrade,but,really wasn't neccessary for a truck under 400hp.You could have saved some cash and just removed the cat and got a better flowing muffler. 4-A must have,however,it will be hard on the factory convertor and you may want to consider the trans as next. 1-Be a good consideration,however,no more than 16-16.5 degrees with a stock headgasket or the added timing will cause early failure of the headgasket. 2-EVERY 12v truck should at least have these installed to free up the rpm band.4k's should be considered if you plan on o-ringing the head,studding it and using a better gasket later. 3-For what your looking for I would consider trying to find a owner who has a 96-98 5psd truck and buying their 215hp injectors.It will give your truck a nice kick in the pants and still allow managable EGT;s.A little internet research will find you someone who is looking to sell their stock stick injectors..I would not put any larger aftermarket injectors in a truck with the stock turbo and the head not done. 4-Intake.....Hmmm,what a dog and pony show they are.They are more for underhood bling than performance as many of todays intake horns will do nothing more than lighten your wallet.UNLESS your looking for extreme power with a 12v(500hp-Up)your factory air horn will do the job you want and need done.The restriction many "chirp" abaout is the grid heater assembly and there is no HP gained by removing it at all. Now if you talking about intake air boxes thats a deal where you decide what you want for looks and buy it.Many have had great results with the BHAF and they will handle the power level you want easily and at a good cost. 5-I would not make any changes to the DV"s unless your planning on a turbo upgrade due to EGT issues. Keep in mind ANY additional fueling mods you make you NEED to address the air side also.Without making a change to the exhaust housing to manage the EGT's or going to a different turbo all the fueling mods in the world will do not a bit of good and only create high heat issues.IMO you need to uprgae the trans before going any further but its your wallet and not mine.........andy

12v Homemade Injector Puller..... -Cut a piece of PVC pipe OR Electrial Conduit Pipe just long enough to allow for the top threads of the injector to be utilized. Once you have done that slide the pipe down over the injector and use a FACTORY lug nut and a rachet/socket combo to remove the injectors.As you tighten down on the lugnut it will pull the 12v injector up and you will feel it release from the head. When reinstalling the injectors put some anti-sieze on the bodies and o-rings and make sure you place the ball on the injector body into the notch on the head.The reinstall the injector nut and retorque to 44ft lbs.

Like the wheels but do not like the Dodge Center caps on them.

What I do to flush mine out and have since the truck was bought by me is this.... I use a turkey baster and at each service I drain out the PS fluid resevoir with it.Then I fill the resevoir with new Amsoil PS fliud.The PS system is then kept from allowing moisture to contaminate it and causing the issues your having right now.It has worked flawlessly for me for over 200k and when its gets cold I have no issues with mine at all.As a matter of fact I still have the original factory steering box on my truck yet to this day and the truck now has over 220k on it......Andy

I am guessing that your never planning a aftermarket turbo install then...... Because if you like quiet then you'll never handlle the sweet sound of a S300 framed charger singing at full song........Andy

Ok..I am trying to figure out here what is wrong with hanging the AD outside the framerail and how the filter hang to low?.Every short bed I have seen done and mounted outside the frame rails hangs higher than the FASS I have with the larger filters and they are nowhere near as low as mine.His hangs lower than the transfer case skid plate which is alot lower than where it would have mounted on the frame. I am not a big fan of guys running alot of pressure in a 24v application as it will lead to early failure of the Vp just as low pressure will.Spring it or adjust it to between 18-20psi and leave it alone and you will be fine anything above 20 constant and your going to have the OFV fail and then your on the road to failure as it will never maintain the proper pressure.

I run a Stewart-Warner 100psi electric gauge with a remote sender that is mounted to the firewall under the hood.The pressure is taken right off of the port on the FASS and ran up to the remote sender and then its electric inside the cab.It is dead on and has never done anything wrong or quit working.I need the big psi as the FASS for my 12v runs at 50psi. Now there are many brands and many electric with remote senders to choose from.I'd say stick with a brand name and a style you like and you should be OK.I have a photo here somewhere of the remote mount we used to install the sender in and will post it when I find it for you.........Andy

Horton does not even make their fan assembly for the Dodge/Cummins truck anymore at all.They make a few of the parts but the complete assembly was dropped due to lack of sales along time ago. Racer Dan... I am not sure what the difference between the fans for hp would be if you could get the factory fan in full lock-up.I know this I seen a small gain in power(7hp)on the dyno with the Flex-A-Lites over the factory fan but without being able to have the factory fan in full lock-up HP gains or claim to them to me is all just hype.Flex-A-Lite claims 27hp but I am at a loss at how they came up with the number and have emailed them about with no reply. As for the powder coat and cost... I dropped the shroud off to have it done and the guy who runs the shop wants to do it in his Bright Red like the rest of the underhood parts he has done for me as he thinks it will really POP.So they will be done in red and his cost is reasonable for a part that comes in prepped already and it will only cost me $30 to have the shroud done.The clear powder coat is what we use on all of our sprint car wheels to aid with the dirt not sticking to the wheels when the car is raced.I have also done it to my Eagle Alloy's that are on my truck and all you need to do is rinse them off and the dirt comes right off and there is no more need to polish them at all and salt does not affect them at all..........Andy P.S.-Thanks for the compliment on the truck.

Here is a link to the install of my Flex-a-Lite 262's that we did back in 2007.They have been ever since and have worked flawlessly without any issues at all.I did not see a huge MPG difference like they claim nor did I gain alot of HP on the jet but neither was why I installed them.They were installed for a different look for that years show season and I have been very happy and impressed with them.Its in the winter months they actually shine the brighest as the warm up times go down significantly and makes driving in sub-zero temps alot nicer. IF I had it to do over again,and I will as I have a new set of the 262's here to reinstall,I will have the shroud powder coated instead of polished as its tough to keep nice for show season.The new set I have I took apart and have sent the shroud out to have clear powder coated so they will only need wiped off for shows.After winter I will swap them out and sell the old set as I am trying to pay more attention to detail for show season......Andy http://picasaweb.google.com/MDTDCTDR/FlexALiteFanInstallation#

I have seen no advantage to 2 stroke oil in my 12v's tank at all and it picked absolutely zero up for power in the dyno runs we did with it when the 2-stroke oil craze hit a year or so ago.The truck gets the same milage with or without the addition of 2-stroke oil and I have stopped using it all together. I had a chat with the gentleman who built my custom P-Pumps/injectors for my truck about the use of 2-stroke later after I quit using it and his response was to not use any at all.Told me that it was just another case of old school thoughts,like the transmission fluid injector cleaning ideas from back then,and that the use would of the oil would do more harm than good.I have never used it since and have had no issues at all......Andy

Russ....I actually have all 6 of the Lund panels and have tried all different combinations to see which worked the best and which one did not raise the intake air temps alot,thus the way you see the truck now.I also considered took into consideration what comes up off the road in the winter months and hits the truck front when I did the testing.If you would see a close up shot of the trucks panels you would get to see first hand how peppered the lower area gets from salt and cinders and all that crap can and will eventually block up a charge air cooler. I understand that you think that warm air in the winter is a good thing but any air thats too warm is not a good thing and you do need a balance of cold air to allow the truck to properly make efficent power.Yes your right, I have my ideas and they do work and have been watched with the aid of my data logger.I never remove the lower panel screens as they make little difference in the summer months and the little bit they do raise the air temps is worth the protection it provides the charge air cooler from road debris.......Andy

I am trying to figure out why you would run a 285/75 tire on a 10 wide wheel?.It way to much wheel width for the 285/75 and if you like that diameter then I would have run a 305/70 which would have given you the same height and a tire wide enough for a 10 wide wheel. Remember also that a wheel with not enough backspacing and most of its width outside the hub will stress the ball joints and cause them to fail prematurely from the added stress.Yes,they look good when you install the deeper dish wheel,but.,the weight of the front end of our trucks cause the added stress of the front end components.........Andy