Hi all,

ive been trying for a few months now to get my scanguage calibrated. I followed all instructions to the letter, as far as I can tell, but many fill ups later I was still having to adjust the offset percentage by around 100%. I tried messing with diesel a and diesel b today on the drive to work to see if it changed the gph, but it was really hard to tell. However, most of the time it seems like the gph reading is way lower than it should be. Even beyond the typical 0 at idle. Is it possible that my truck is incorrectly reporting fuel consumption? Is there any way to test or calibrate that? Anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong? I love the scanguage for its other features but I would really like to be able to see accurate mpg data....

What is your clutch rated for? I'm not familiar with the feramic aspect although I though they were rated higher. I believe your is organic/feramic? Mine is only organic so that's why Im concerned. What about stress on the drivetrain in general? Do you think the comp is much harder on everything being that it adds that much hp and tq? Do you have the bigger or stock input shaft? My tires are only slightly bigger than stock at 285/75 where I believe stock is 265/76 or 245/75 depending on which wheels your truck came with. 

Also, what do you think my total numbers would be with injectors and comp?

Edited March 22, 20169 yr by leathermaneod

Quote

the larger clutch and is rated to handle up to 400 horsepower & 800 ft. lbs. of torque.

Here is calculated number from my last trip. The red markers show my high points. Correction this is empty running... Green bands is the stock HP / TQ area beyond that is extra. Again this is calculated at the flywheel.

I found one during towing my RV.

Edited March 22, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

Ok. I would imagine numbers would be slightly higher under a large load though right? Looks like you hit about 320 hp and 700tq?

Sounds like we are about the same on clutch then...

im just leary of adding soooo much power haha. I don't wanna not have it and later wish I had, but I am scared of breaking things or reducing reliability or longevity.

I added one with the RV towing back from Dynamics place. I was hunting for that one...

Added one what? 

Also is there any way to get a more accurate estimate of tq and hp than just adding up what things are rated for?

A dyno.  

Well yes I know that. I'm just trying to get a ball park estimate that makes me feel safe running the comp because on paper my truck could potentially make so much. 

Just add the numbers and and some safety room.

That's the thing, adding up the numbers takes me over the rating on the clutch. That's why I was asking for opinions on that and how hard the comp will be on my truck in general. I'm kinda leaning toward just sticking with the EZ now because I don't wanna overtax the drive train. I don't need all that power. The adjustability would be nice but I don't really need it...

Better safe than sorry

That's kinda the way I'm leaning now. Just hate to not have that adjustability. May have to call edge back and see how adjustable the low end fueling is without tapping the pump. Then decide which to go with. My dilemma is, with the EZ I tried I missed a little on the low end coming from the smarty. I figured the comp would probably allow me to make up for that. But then I realized the huge power gains with the comp...mike, do you have any significant drivetrain upgrades other than clutch?

What is a reasonable torque number to expect from my 75hp injectors?

15 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

But then I realized the huge power gains with the comp...mike, do you have any significant drivetrain upgrades other than clutch?

Southbend Con OFE Clutch and Tire Size Reduction (265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16). That's it!

The thing is yes you can still tap the wire but you can either turn down the Comp main level or sublevel or both. What kills the clutch is excessive power in RPM band. Best way to learn what happening is grab a bicycle preferably a 10 speed to 20 speed. Now if you jump into too high of a gear will climbing a grade its possible to break the chain or bend the crank depending on leg strength. Yes on my bicycle the cranks are slightly bent. So the same applies here if you modify the fueling so the power comes on later then typically the clutch holds up better. At the same time this why I went down a tire size it adds in acceleration but also allow for excessive power to break the tires loose instead of clutch or input shaft. I'm going to cross 260k mile on the diesel and still to this day never had a 5th ger nut issue!

 

i've never had 5th gear nut issues either   

 

how you drive plays a huge role in how well driveline parts hold up

So what I'm hearing is I shouldn't be after the low end fueling that the smarty had so much because that is what is harder on things...

also just checking because I'm not supper good with metric tire sizes, you actually went to a bigger diameter but almost 1-1/4 inches narrower tire? That decrease in surface area is what saves you? 

 

I believe my truck has now had fifth gear nut issues twice. This time it should be fixed for good though since it has not only the updated but from dodge, but the retainer from active trans. Fingers crossed and trying to drive it very carefully anyway.

one more question and I know it's a personal preference/opinion thing but I respect your opinions so here goes, would either of you be afraid to run the comp on 5x5 on my truck with the mods I have and knowing that on paper the numbers are too high for the clutch?

29 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

how you drive plays a huge role in how well driveline parts hold up

Post your video of smacking the tree and then peeling out up the mountain road in the snow...

Lol I'd like to see this 

Sometimes the only answer is MOOOREE POWERRR!!!!

 

 

 

Damn, I just found it too...

To my credit I spent a lot of time that day being "nice" and trying to get unstuck gracefully......I got tired.