Hi all,

I was towing my trailer today as I was looking at cars to buy. It is a nice, heavy 18ft trailer, but I was towing empty. I got back after pulling 150 miles and noticed spots all over the front of the trailer that could have been confused w diesel splash.

Crawled under and found that the leak is on the hard lines from the trans to the trans cooler, right at a plastic retainer clip about just above transfer case. Their is corrosion there, appearing that salt got held their and it corroded and swelled and today it decided to rub through or blow a pin hole. It is a healthy leak.

i pulled into parts store and bought some ATF+4 and funnel, topped it and came home since parts store looked it up and said it wasn't in stock. But I don't trust the kid, he found one line that was $92 and it didn't look just right and the truck has 2. I will try and use the part lookup tool when I get back to the house as I am working on my work iPad (ptooey!) and the tool isn't compatible.

so, I will be installing new lines. But what else should I do while I am fooling w it? It is a daily driver right now. 165k miles. I have never serviced it. Never changed the fluid, but it will be getting a good flushing over the next workweek! I know there are bands, but not much else. I run highway speeds(up to 90mph) and towing good work trailer w car or sometimes bobcat or small tractor. Should I still get in there and drop the pan and look to see condition?

All suggestions are appreciated. 

I confirmed today that I must have a failed thermostat. Running 70-80 w trailer and I just barely raised over the first hash mark, which makes it 160ish? So I need to do a search on the tstat info.

 

thanks in advance!

Well the shift selector seal can be changed. what you got to do is drop the pan, filter and valve body. Now you can knock out the old seal with a hammer and screwdriver. Now to install the new seal use a long bolt and thick flat washer something that bend. On the bottom side you might need to use a second washer and deep socket. This will allow you to pull the new seal into place.

As for the lines we have those for sale on the site here.

The rest of the seals on the transmission I would talk to @Dynamic  about it.

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Those are some pics from under the truck. Sorry to steer this thread back onto my original topic. ;)

From what I can tell, there seems to be 3 lines involved with the transmission. 1 driver's side, 1 passenger's side, and one short one that goes from driver's side <> passenger side. As you can tell in the pictures, they all suffer from corrosion right under the plastic retainer clips so I want to replace all 3 lines while I'm in there.

Mike:

1) Does your kit you offer have 3 lines in it? It looked like it might in the picture, but there seemed to be only 4 connectors. But I know nothing about this, so I couldn't tell.

2) The port you were thinking about putting in your OEM pan.... is it this one?: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-55109/overview/ the 55109?

3) Would then use a sensor like this one for the temperature? http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/MPETS3001SB_0481950217 Maybe there is a write up on this somewhere and I missed it. If so, PLEASE point me there and I'll try to stop bothering people.

4) These metal hoses bend and run all over the place. You recommend mounting the lines with 1/2" rubber coated hose clamps. Do you mount them to the engine to give them support? How do you do that? I don't know how much support those lines require. I want to do this 1 time and be done with them. I don't want them to have a pint of fluid in them all the time yanking up and down unsupported as I bounce down the highway.

5) Are you sticking with OEM pan to save some $$ right now instead of going with larger capacity aftermarket pan? Everything seems geared to getting a couple extra quarts of fluid for cooling. Just wondering.

 

Have I mentioned lately how much I like this site?

 

 

3 hours ago, jamman said:

1) Does your kit you offer have 3 lines in it? It looked like it might in the picture, but there seemed to be only 4 connectors. But I know nothing about this, so I couldn't tell.

@Me78569 is the producer of the lines he could answer more on that.

3 hours ago, jamman said:

2) The port you were thinking about putting in your OEM pan.... is it this one?: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-55109/overview/ the 55109?

Actually this one...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2260/overview/

3 hours ago, jamman said:

3) Would then use a sensor like this one for the temperature? http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/MPETS3001SB_0481950217 Maybe there is a write up on this somewhere and I missed it. If so, PLEASE point me there and I'll try to stop bothering people.

I'm not sure what the sensor looks like being I'm trying to order a ISSPro EV2 gauge but even ISSPro web site doesn't show the sensor. But yeah it will look similar.

3 hours ago, jamman said:

4) These metal hoses bend and run all over the place. You recommend mounting the lines with 1/2" rubber coated hose clamps. Do you mount them to the engine to give them support? How do you do that? I don't know how much support those lines require. I want to do this 1 time and be done with them. I don't want them to have a pint of fluid in them all the time yanking up and down unsupported as I bounce down the highway.

Again @Me78569 is the producer of these transmission line kits. 

3 hours ago, jamman said:

5) Are you sticking with OEM pan to save some $$ right now instead of going with larger capacity aftermarket pan? Everything seems geared to getting a couple extra quarts of fluid for cooling. Just wondering.

1/2 ton truck. Typically its not a primary rig but it does work when the Cummins is down for repairs. So far I'm up to $1,500 on the transmission, then $75 in fluid. My pockets are rather empty now but now spending more on the bung and gauge. I made 160k miles on stock everything. I doubt I'll gain much from aftermarket pan.

There are 3 hoses in the kit.  You will only have 4 connectors on the kit, 2 for the trans 2 for the heat exchanger,  the cooler up front just uses hose clamps.  

 

The clamps we recommend are 

 

We don't tell you were to mount them though as there are too many configurations for us to try and predict.  You can attach it in multiple areas under the truck. 

 

I have mine attached via the TC inspection cover bolt then I have a couple good areas around the subframe.