Hi all,

So shortly after getting my Fuel Boss lift pump and big line kit installed a few months ago I noticed that I have a 1-2 psi needle bounce in my autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge. I am using a snubber from Geno's and my pressure tap is located on the filter canister outlet. As you can see here.

The items are from left to right, Female JIC end of Vulcan Universal Fuel line(brass), Male JIC to NPT adapter(silver), Geno's snubber(brass), Street 90 from Ace(brass). This setup comes out of the tapped 90 that attaches to the bottom of the fuel filter canister. 

 

Anyway, I've dealt with the needle bounce for this long, but I always regretted not installing a needle valve so that I could turn the gauge supply off in an emergency. The more I thought about it, I realized that adding a needle valve would probably help with my needle bounce and make my gauge last longer. So I got one from Vulcan. My question is, should I used the snubber and the needle valve? or just the needle valve? The only thing that concerns me about using both is that assembly is getting long and heavy where it comes out of that tapped 90. Also, does it matter what order I put the items in? I am also looking for recommendations on thread sealant for the NPT threads. I have used this 

and this

in the past and both seem to be ok. The 545 is the purple liquid stuff and I always feel like I need to let it sit overnight before running fuel through it. The 567 is more like regular pipe dope. I always figured the purple liquid stuff was safer for a post filter application than pipe dope just incase some got to the injectors. But I was told when I did my Fuel Boss install that regular white(PTFE or whatever its called) pipe dope was fine for that. I would like to know what you all think and normally use. 

Thanks in advance!

Edited March 30, 20169 yr by leathermaneod

Hmmm... I normally don't go shaking all my electronics.

 

I would hook it up and go for a test drive. Power in the cab fuse panel, ground any where on the intake manifold is fine, CANBus plug, MAP sensor plugs, and your wire tap (optional).

Lol I wasn't shaking it, it was very obvious when moving it/turning it over ect. But ok sounds good. I will take your advice and see what happens. Probably nothing wrong with it, it just seemed odd to me. While we are on the subject, I have another question. I was looking at the parts and the instructions for the install and I saw they have a sweet fuse tap that is a 10 amp fuze with a wire soldered onto one leg. Now the instructions are very specific that the it should be used in place of the #9 fuse and the tap side of the fuze should be the HOT side. My question is, wouldn't that make the comp unfused and able to draw as much power as the truck will give it, possibly frying things?

I normally do it on the COLD side so if the fuse blows out then the Comp goes off to. Then this way it is fused.

Thanks for the call Mike! I really really appreciate your time and all your help. Plus its great to chat with a person who can teach me a think or two(or 100 lol) about these trucks!

Not a problem. Just quicker to grab the phone and tell ya than type all that again.

Edited April 2, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

Just looked up the Edge Comp instructions and this is what it said:

Determine a good 12 volt circuit for use as a power source. Verify this circuit has power while starting and running and no power with the ignition off. NOTE: A good circuit is the number 17 fuse (10 AMP Cluster A) inside the fuse panel located on the left side of the instrument panel. Remove the fuse panel cover, and locate the number 17 fuse. Attach the supplied male fuse tap connector onto the fuse. Reinstall the stock fuse with connector back into the fuse panel (this is a very tight fit).

I too connect to the cold side otherwise the Comp will receive power all the time and be non-fused.

But if you're concerned about the rattling then definitely let Edge know.  No point in accepting something that may have been dropped or damaged.

Thanks Katoom. I just got back from the first test ride with the comp all hooked up and i think its working fine. I am very impressed. The top end is AMAZING. I hit almost 2500 without even realizing it(thats pretty high for me). Unfortunately, when I got back I realized that I have an almost new belt that won't stop squeaking, and much worse, more fuel leaks. It really hard to tell exactly where its coming from, but it seems like its the push lock fitting that comes out of the bottom of my filter housing, not any of the fittings I just put together with 545. Maybe thats where it came from before when I did the pipe dope?...but can push lock fittings leak??? Its not that old, like less than 10k miles and like 6 or 8 months. Weird thing is, its also leaking from the other end at the VP, but that seems to be coming from the fitting itself, where the swivel nut part meets the body of the fitting. So hopefully that one just needs to be loosened and tightened again. I guess Ill try that for the other on too, but it really seems like its coming from where the hose meets the fitting...anyone ever had a push lock fitting just randomly start leaking? I did spray break cleaner in there to make sure there was not dirt from old pipe dope when I took it apart....could that have degraded the fuel hose??

No pipe dope is need on those fittings.

 

I highly suggest against using pipe dope and sealant tapes on fuel system fittings because all it will take is small bit of teflon tape or pipe dope to get into the VP44 and plug a passage or gum up something. If it does make it past the VP44 then you have it in the edge filter of the cross over tubes or in the injector itself. Not a good thing period.

Edited April 3, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

I don't have pipe dope on it anymore. When I did put it on I was extremely careful not to use very much and to keep it from getting on the inside. When it leaked with the pipe dope, I took it back off the truck and disassembled it all and cleaned everything with wire brush, brake cleaner, and compressed air. Then I put it back together with locktite 545, the purple stuff. I let it dry for at least 24 hrs, then reinstalled it. Now the problem is something is still leaking. But it really seems like the fuel is coming from the hose where it meets the fitting. Should I be getting a new piece of 1/2 push lock fuel hose? I thought pushlocks didn't leak? unless the brake cleaner degraded the hose? I didn't think that could happen either....

More then likely the push lock fitting isn't leaking. Unless some random phenomenon happened or it's not all the way pushed on, it's more likely to be leaking from the fitting end then the push lock end. I've had push lock fittings be bad so could just be that. 

That's kinda what I thought, but I was looking and feeling around and it really seems like it's coming out the end of the hose. It's def on all the way and it didn't leak before. However it is in a different position now and I did spray the brake cleaner through it as I said. So I'm not sure if those factors could have messed it up somehow. What do you mean about a bad push lock fitting though? Bad how?

Parker Push Lock fitting I normally place the fitting on the floor and using my body weight to push the hose on. Lot of people go through the trouble of hot water, lubing etc. I just just body weight and get a tight full push on the fitting every time.

I think I popped a blood vessel in my eye trying to force those stupid things together.

4 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

I think I popped a blood vessel in my eye trying to force those stupid things together.

 

Now you learned a new trick...

Lol nice. I haven't done that many, but I found that heating the ends with a small propane torch works pretty good. The odd thing with this situation is that it didn't leak before. I took the whole 18" long filter to vp hose off the truck to add the needle valve and now I'm having issues. The stupid thing should not be than sensitive imo. Now I can't play with my new toy till I get the darn thing fixed again. I have to put new brakes on my wife's crv tomorrow so after that I'm going to try popping each end off and make sure there's no dirt on the mating surfaces an then tighten them back up and see what happens. Provided it's not 25° with 20mph winds. I'm 99% sure the filter end has fuel coming right out the end of the hose, but it is very hard to see down there so maybe I'm wrong. I'm also going to call Vulcan and see if they've heard of anything like this and see if they will send me a new piece of hose since it was their big line kit. 

I had an issue here before

 

 

When you have a push lock fitting that doesn't have the bend, if that same area were defected or got damaged it could make it appear like it was leaking through the push lock end. I find it highly unlikely that the push lock end would leak due to it breaking or anything. 

 

If you used a torch on the hose it could've affected the hose playability and it might not be grasping the push lock end like it should be. 

 

Just my  though, could be way off.

Yes I believe that is where the vp end is leaking. Hopefully that one just needs to be loosened and re tightened or taken off cleaned and re tightened. With the filter housing end though, I checked and checked and felt all over and it really seems like that's not it. But I'm going to try it anyway. I have to wait for warmer weather again now and I may have to wait on a new piece of hose too. I'll let you guys know when I figure it out.

 

i was just thinking, I guess it's possible that it's not on far enough? There's more than one of my push lock fitting that didn't go on quite right enough to make that plastic washer tight. I didn't think that was an issue though....never had a leak anywhere else...

 

 

Edited April 4, 20169 yr by leathermaneod

I don't neccesarily think the hose needs to be tight against the plastic washer, but it should but at least flush with it. I have had a couple fittings be just shy of sitting completely flush and still functioned ok.

Edited April 4, 20169 yr by notlimah

Oh ok. Yes all of mine are at least into the washer. 

Just by virtue of JIC design, the fitting in the picture cant leak at the swivel. If the Push-loc fitting leaks where you're pointing in the picture then the JIC flare flange isnt sealing or the sealing washer is leaking.  Diesel fuel is like oil and will creep around encompassing a large area instead of dripping at a specific location giving you the impression the leak is coming from a different source.