So, I've never had my truck aligned (I've put 135k) since I've had it. The tires have always worn evenly. I replaced the ball joints on the drivers side. Last fall the tires were wearing, so I took it in and had it checked. The toe-in was off, but I don't remember if it was positive or negative. He set toe-in at +0.10. He said the drivers side camber was at +1.35 and passengers side was ar +0.23. I told him to leave it and when I put new tires on in the spring we would do it then.
I know both sides have 1 degree bushings already in the top ball joints. So, I decided to check camber the redneck way. I downloaded an spirit level app for my iPad. Parked on level concrete. Put the iPad on the concrete and zero'd it, used a straight bar against the rim of the wheel, not the tire. Checked oth sides and they were close to the alignment shop, drove forward 10 feet and did it again. The passenger side was pretty consistent with the drivers side, but the drivers side varied by over 1degree.
So, I re-zero'd the iPad and did the same thing on the wheel hub, both sides ranged from 0.0 to 0.2.
From the info I got I figure the drivers side wheel is bent and there's enough flex in the wheel to throw off the camber compared to the wheel hub. Am I on the right track here or totally missing something. I'm getting ready to put new tires on and want the front end to be in alignment.
So, I've never had my truck aligned (I've put 135k) since I've had it. The tires have always worn evenly. I replaced the ball joints on the drivers side. Last fall the tires were wearing, so I took it in and had it checked. The toe-in was off, but I don't remember if it was positive or negative. He set toe-in at +0.10. He said the drivers side camber was at +1.35 and passengers side was ar +0.23. I told him to leave it and when I put new tires on in the spring we would do it then.
I know both sides have 1 degree bushings already in the top ball joints. So, I decided to check camber the redneck way. I downloaded an spirit level app for my iPad. Parked on level concrete. Put the iPad on the concrete and zero'd it, used a straight bar against the rim of the wheel, not the tire. Checked oth sides and they were close to the alignment shop, drove forward 10 feet and did it again. The passenger side was pretty consistent with the drivers side, but the drivers side varied by over 1degree.
So, I re-zero'd the iPad and did the same thing on the wheel hub, both sides ranged from 0.0 to 0.2.
From the info I got I figure the drivers side wheel is bent and there's enough flex in the wheel to throw off the camber compared to the wheel hub. Am I on the right track here or totally missing something. I'm getting ready to put new tires on and want the front end to be in alignment.
Bob