My high idle Mpg switch has worked great until today. If I  put it on Mpg my iat temp on my scan gauge II reads -41 and I immediately geat a trouble code p0113. If I put it on high idle it does not high ldle anymore and the iat temp is -41 and a trouble the code p0118. what's going on here its not even been 2 years since I purchased the switch.

Which version of switch are you running? With the circuit board? Which cable are you running the white cable or the black cable?

@Mopar1973Man

 

Looks like it is an old switch from Ed,

 

 

 

Those switches sold through DAP were actually created by Yankneck696 and sold through DAP.  Mopar1973man didn't actually do any building of those first switches, the theory behind the switch was ours, but that is about it.   

 

 

Now your issue is likely due to design flaw that Yankneck created by mounting the switch to the wires directly.  When we took over building the switches we redesigned the switch to use a PCB board and proper connections.  To fix your issue I would check to fraying in the bare wire in the loom on the engine side.  

Yes I got it from DAP (I live 15 min away) it's has the white cables.

 

Yep, 

 

2 places to check, The wiring soldier to the back of the switch.  This was a large flaw of the switches Ed made, thats why we redesigned the switch when we took over the production, sales, and support of the switch. 

 

Other place is the bare wire in the loom.  It had a tendency to "rot"

I took the whole thing out and as far as I can tell it looks good nothing loose on the switch. I did find some how the cable was caught behind the emergency brake it had a little pinch but I cut open the outer coving and the wires all look good . So could you  tell me how to trouble shoot this with my onhm meter what setting which wires to check all the resistors in the switch and what they should be?

 

Since we did not design and build the unit it is VERY hard for us to trouble shoot it as we dont know how Ed created it.  The theory of the switch was all that Mopar1973man did in the production.  

 

 

What I have seen is that the issues with Ed's switch generally stem from a break in the wires in the loom.  I would probe the wire on the plug side, and the switch side to look for a short.    The wire color should ID what is what, but again we have no idea what Ed used for each wire so I can't help much there.  

 

I would probe the bare wire first as generally that is the wire to blame.

 

 

The mopar1973man switch was designed from scratch so what we have does not match what Ed created.  

I think I found it. Where the harness splits the bare wire was not looking good pretty much no connection. Why use a bare wire clearly not good. So time to replace it. While I'm at it if I can find something good I'm going to put a plug/connection by the switch and secure up the switch better. It will  be easier to shove one plug through the firewall then 4. I'll let you you know how it goes might take me a few days. If not I'll be buying a new one.

There's currently a %15 discount on the switches until dec 1st.

Got it fixed. changed out the bare wire. 

Good to hear

I finally got my old yankneck model hooked up. Son is here and his hands small enough to reach the wiring at back of head. I've got the same codes as above. P0113 and P0118. Scan gauge says no response to cancelling the codes. 

 

Can i get a new generation switch/board and splice it into the old wires? Seems like the easiest solution. 

The issue is likely in your harness itselt so splicing into the molex wouldn't work.

 

Check the bare wire near the IAT plug, I think thats where Ed ran the bare wire. 

 

 

Great, that's the one that I need help getting to. What was the problem with the wire at that location? What to look for?

It is typically frayed.  

Are we talking under the shrinky dink where the two cables come together?

could be a break anywhere between that and hte plugs at the end.

If it looks good there then there must be a break in the wires on the back of the switch

Back of switch is a mess! Doesn't look professionally done. I might just order a whole new unit. Not worth my time to trace down stuff. I bought in here, not DAP. But I'll be supportive and order a new one. At least I can use the old unit as a means of pulling in the new wires.