Hey guys - I could use some help.

 

I've done a ton of mods to this truck and I have two issues - plus I suspect I should be getting a lot more performance.

 

1.  Very difficult to start in cold weather.  If I don't have the block heater plugged in I get a ton of white smoke and it's very hard to start until the temp reading hits about 50.  This is with the Edge set on level zero.  Once it hits a certain temperature boom!  It's like a light switch and it runs great though it still smokes (whitish) while the extra fuel burns off.  Floor pedal does nothing until it runs, Edge says APP is reporting correct positioning.   I can hear the grid heater go 'clunk' when the key is turned on and I've checked the fuse.  Fuel is good and I've even added anti-gel though it isn't near cold enough for that to matter.

 

2. Pulling a load, uphill, 4th in lockup I get a shudder at about 1,800 RPM through about 2,100 RPM.  Does it worse under load though I can still feel it on a hill without a load.  I have a trans lockup switch installed and If I force it into lockup it makes no difference.  I can force it into third and force lockup and with the RPM boosted to about 2,200 the issue is very subtle to non-existent.  I suspect compression stall.  This seems to have started right after the Hamilton cam was added.

 

Other observations:  Heavy black smoke when starting from a stop sign regardless of edge setting.  MAP sensor is reporting pressure to the Edge (the edge is just an in-line insertion between the MAP and wiring harness) but if I disconnect the MAP completely it seems to make no difference to performance (I'm wondering if there's a break in the wiring harness and that's why it's over fueling).  No check engine light when first disconnected though after fooling with it a half dozen times I now have a CEL that won't clear.

 

Help, guidance, wisdom and 401k contributions gladly accepted.

That's a tricky one jlb.  Mechanic has no receipts from his parts distributor for the head gasket.  Its from a pretty reputable, local shop but they don'tr see where they bought it nor where I paid for it.

 

We know they sent the Hamilton Cam required clearances to the machine shop for the correct depth so that's where the assumption of stock thickness is coming from.

 

The work was done back in April. So memory isn't serving well.

 

Here's a video of what a cold start without a block heater looks like, when you can get the truck to idle.  This was back in the spring right after the new VP44 was installed.  About 30 degrees outside, after being out all night.  These days it won't lope along like that without the starter continually engaged.

 

Cold_start.mp4

Its not cold enough for a serious test yet but I may have found the cold start issue.  I replaced the grid heater relay and one of the two solenoids looked like it had exploded inside the housing.  after I removed it I tested it with a battery and an ohm meter and one relay worked but though the sploded one did clunk it didn't actually make any contact.  So I guess one grid was heating but one was not.

 

It was about 38 here this morning so not really cold but it started right up and I think it wouldn't have without replacing the relay.

 

By the way, relay bought through auto parts store (which takes three days to arrive) - $75.  Relay bought through PartsGeek.com which takes three days to arrive - $45 including shipping.

I would guess you are right about only 1 grid working.   makes a pretty big difference

That they will. My 12v would hardly start at 20* with only one working. Sorry should have suggested checking them sooner.

16 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

That they will. My 12v would hardly start at 20* with only one working. Sorry should have suggested checking them sooner.

 

Been noted for History hahahah

I think a lot of people DID suggest checking them but I was too busy looking for complicated answers.

 

I did notice that there are separate relays and separate control wires to those relays for each grid heater.

 

Could I guess that both fire for a cold start and one fires continuously based on the Incoming Air Temperature sensor to keep warming the air until the manifold warms up?   That's the reason for two solenoids and two sets of control wires?

One relay 

On 1/30/2017 at 2:17 PM, Me78569 said:

 

Been noted for History hahahah

 

Noted for what? Had a dead relay. Swapped it out with my extra and it's happy as a clam.

 

1 hour ago, OverToyed said:

I think a lot of people DID suggest checking them but I was too busy looking for complicated answers.

 

I did notice that there are separate relays and separate control wires to those relays for each grid heater.

 

Could I guess that both fire for a cold start and one fires continuously based on the Incoming Air Temperature sensor to keep warming the air until the manifold warms up?   That's the reason for two solenoids and two sets of control wires?

 

There are two grids in the heater. They split the amp draw between the two as to not kill a single relay. Both come on and are pulsed until the ecm (pcm on a 12v) says to stop.

And now that I can start it,  it's time to replace my Edge Juice CTS with a programmable tuner that can accommodate all the mods I've done.  

 

I'm thinking:  QUADZILLA IQUADBT4K00 4K and start with a tune from the folks at Quadzilla?

Do not get a 4k box. You will hate how it surges, be disappointed with the high rpm power, and streetability will suck. I have one. I ran it for a day and it's been on the shelf since. 

Quadz actually recommended the non 4k unit and I have an email into them to be sure which product is for me.

 

Thanks so much for the feedback TFaoro!

The only way I would EVER recommend a 4k box is if the truck only saw the street from the deck of a trailer on the way to an event. ...even then I would hard pressed to recommend it. 

 

Get the normal Quad box with the Iquad.   Then load the V2 tuning on it and be happy.

So far I'm happy with the iQuad v2 software. Been working on the cruise timing functions with @Me78569 and aiming for better economy on the highway.

16 hours ago, Me78569 said:

The only way I would EVER recommend a 4k box is if the truck only saw the street from the deck of a trailer on the way to an event. ...even then I would hard pressed to recommend it. 

 

Get the normal Quad box with the Iquad.   Then load the V2 tuning on it and be happy.

Even then I wouldn't. ppump the world!!!!!

Ok.  Quad (non 4k) with the iQuad is on order and will be here by the weekend!  

 

Now I have to figure how to yank the Edge and put in the iQaud.  At least it will be a warm weekend!

 

Thanks for the help fellas!  Next time I'll listen to you first before over complicating things.

Quad install should take you no more than an hour taking your time and routing wires properly! You've always got this site for help if you need it too. 

If you decide at some point you want to try the 4K box let me know and I'll let you borrow mine. The harnesses are the same for both boxes so you can plug it in and select the right vehicle on your phone.  

It'll reassure you made the right decision with the standard box. 

Edited February 1, 20178 yr by TFaoro

TFaoro I tried sending a PM but the site won't let me.  

 

Did you notice any difference with upgrading the intercooler?

 

I've been through 5 Mishi radiators so I would go Spearco but that's a spendy chunk of aluminum!

14 minutes ago, OverToyed said:

TFaoro I tried sending a PM but the site won't let me.  

 

Did you notice any difference with upgrading the intercooler?

 

I've been through 5 Mishi radiators so I would go Spearco but that's a spendy chunk of aluminum!

You would never notice a difference.  The stock intercooler is very capible of handling your fueling.

I installed a second MAP type sensor on the turbo side and the pressures are the same.  I can't measure flow volume, of course, but the air would have to go somewhere or pile up so that's what I was figuring.

 

Thanks!

1 hour ago, OverToyed said:

TFaoro I tried sending a PM but the site won't let me.  

 

Did you notice any difference with upgrading the intercooler?

 

I've been through 5 Mishi radiators so I would go Spearco but that's a spendy chunk of aluminum!

I think Mike is working on that now. 

 

I've noticed my engine runs a touch warmer because the intercooler blocks some of the airflow.

 

As far as air temps, I've noticed nothing on the IAT gauge. I think that's because it's at the back of the engine but who knows. I ONLY replaced my stock one because it was leaking out of 3 or 4 tubes where they enter the end tank. 

 

I've yet to hear anything like you're experiencing with their radiator.... What keeps happening? I've been considering getting one so that's not good news to me. 

Optimal IAT temperatures is 100 to 140F. Below 80F there is loss of MPG and wild change in timing.