Jump to content
Posted

I am simply going to ask random questions regarding my truck and upgrades, feedback on upgrades others have done....anecdotal evidence etc....

 

To start off...has anyone ran the stainless diesel manifold? (http://www.crazycarlsturbos.com/Stainless-Diesel-Exaust-Manifold-SDman.htm) If so....what is your opinion on it?

 

I am slowly preparing for compounds OR just a larger single, haven't decided yet. Specific setup is still not known at this point, however I do know I want reliability and usability over everything. In my other thread, TFaoro made some excellent points (

). 

 

 

I'll be back with more ?s. Thanks.

 

 

 

 

PS TFaoro.....trailer weighs 5,560 pounds:thumb1:  I'll see about getting a pic up here soon. 

 

  • Replies 307
  • Views 39k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • The old saying , ''he who hesitates looses'', is not always true. He who hesitates gains more information before jumping in.   That's important because there are so many advertisements that

  • Yes, I meant as in the adrenaline. It's easy to turn a programmer up, but turning the fueling lower than stock is impossible without a quad.    Since your trans is already built properly, ye

  • Fueling lower than stock is VERY helpful with bigger than stock injectors.  HP wouldn't be lower as your injectors make up for it.   By fueling we mean the actual fueling message to the VP44,  

Featured Replies

  • Author

So apparently the method I used is way incorrect when dealing with the ABS system on my truck.

 

The proper way to bleed the brakes on my particular truck is for the helper at the brake pedal to NOT pump the brakes at all, but rather begin to depress the brake pedal and tell the guy at the caliper to open the bleeder valve. Onece the pedal is at the floor, the helper keeps the pedal pressed down while the other guy closes the bleeder, pedal should come back up on its own. Repeat this process starting at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder. 

 

The way that I did it inadvertently introduced millions of tiny air bubbles into the ABS system.....Soo next weekend I'm replacing the front brakes and going to try the method above and see where it goes. Worst comes to worst, I gotta take it in and have the ABS computer turned on and have them bleed the brakes. I feel like a bonehead saying that :doh:. I've never ever had issues working on brakes. Not even on European vehicles. 

  • Author

@Mopar1973Man I tried the method in your article. Followed it to a T. Same result. I ordered a vacuum bleeder and am waiting for it to show up in the mail. Probably shoulda done your method first.... Never ever had an issue bleeding brakes in my life. 

 

I have a vac bleeder but rarley use it for brakes anymore. Seems the hose is forever falling off when I don't want it too. I'm not sure which article you looked at but I either do the two man method as you described (although I NEVER pump the pedal, only an even push to a 2x4 on the floor board) or the one man method M1973M likes. What made a difference for me was to take the bleeder screw out and put never-sieze on the threads to seal them so you don't draw air in through them. Then one end of the hose on the bleeder and the other end in a jar of your choice. Just make sure that end STAYS submersed in fluid. Now slowly push the pedal down, hold for a second and slowly let it up. I use this method on all my vehicles with great results. The only thing I think would be better is a pressure bleeder from what I read, but I've never bought one. Good luck. 

  • Author
1 hour ago, dave110 said:

I have a vac bleeder but rarley use it for brakes anymore. Seems the hose is forever falling off when I don't want it too. I'm not sure which article you looked at but I either do the two man method as you described (although I NEVER pump the pedal, only an even push to a 2x4 on the floor board) or the one man method M1973M likes. What made a difference for me was to take the bleeder screw out and put never-sieze on the threads to seal them so you don't draw air in through them. Then one end of the hose on the bleeder and the other end in a jar of your choice. Just make sure that end STAYS submersed in fluid. Now slowly push the pedal down, hold for a second and slowly let it up. I use this method on all my vehicles with great results. The only thing I think would be better is a pressure bleeder from what I read, but I've never bought one. Good luck. 

Thanks for the info. 

  • 3 weeks later...

@crf450ish try gravity bleeding. Leave cap off master cylinder and fill up completely. Go right rear, left rear, right front, left front pattern. Open RR bleeder, put drain pan under it and let it drip. Let it empty the MC to about 3/4 empty. Close bleeder, fill MC and repeat in above pattern. After all 4 wheels are done go to RR, open bleeder and have helper slowly press pedal to floor and close bleeder. Repeat in above pattern. This has worked great for difficult to bleed systems for me in the past.

 Also good way to flush out old fluid.

Edited by Gregturley
Missing info

When I put all new lines on mine I gravity bled until fluid was running out of all bleeders and then did the one man method since I usually don't have help. Same as GT but no helper. I found that gravity bleeding alone was not enough to get a firm pedal so finished it off with a few pumps.

Like @dave110 said, I always do a final bleed by depressing the pedal and opening the bleeder but gravity bleeding will help reduce creating air bubbles by pumping the pedal a lot. I have a helper push and hold the pedal, not pump it. Open bleeder then when it hits the floor, tighten bleeder, let off pedal, repeat as necessary. Usually 2 times per bleeder and its good to go.

Edited by Gregturley