Hey everyone. I just need a little guidance on my truck, an '02 2500 QC/LB, H.O. w/ 6-speed. I haven't been driving it much lately, took a job in another state and I'm driving a little Dakota to keep the miles down on my baby. Anyways, I went to start it this weekend after sitting for the better part of 3 months and found the batteries dead. I had the key on long enough for the heater grid to cycle off, and when the voltage didn't come back above about 9 volts I shut the key off and put a trickle charger on the truck for about 14 hours and tried starting it the next morning. It fired, and ran fine for the three-minute heater grid cycle while I moved some items around to get it out of the garage. I noticed the daytime running lights were flickering rapidly when the heater grid wasn't running, so I hopped in the truck to watch my voltage. It was rising and falling with the heater grid as usual until the three-minute mark, and once the heater shut off completely the voltage steadily started climbing towards the redline. I shut the truck off just as it peaked my voltage gauge *check engine light and check gauges light were both on by this point*, let it sit for a couple minutes while I checked the voltage in my batteries *they both tested low, but have since been able to be charged and hold a good voltage*, but when I turned the key back on I had my check engine light lit. Cycled the key three times, checked the codes, and came up with 0382, 0380, and 0215. The first two come back to grid heater relay, and I would like some ideas on what caused them, but my main concern is the 0215. I replaced my injector pump less than two years ago *previous owner liked high-level programmers and stock fuel systems * and honestly I'm scared half to death by this code. I haven't tried to restart the truck, although as I mentioned I trickle charged both batteries successfully and cleaned all my connections. It was running fine, no smoke or rough/ascending idle when my voltage started to peak, but I don't even want to risk the injector pump. What caused that code? What could have caused my heater grid relay codes? I know I just came to this forum, but unfortunately I don't have many options available to me for information right now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

At this point I would correct the voltage problem first thing... Check over the alternator and charging stuff. Then I would clear the codes and see if any come back. The wild voltage up and down could of tripped the codes in the first place...

Ok, I'll try and have my mechanic bring his scanner by my house this week while I'm at work. I'm always on time with my friendship payments *as he so kindly calls them * so it shouldn't be a problem. I'll have to update you Friday or Saturday, I'm headed out of town as we speak. Thanks again; I'll try to get back to you with the updates!

Well you could check error codes yourself using the key trick... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

I'm sorry, I didn't explain myself well enough. After I cleaned and charged the batteries and terminals I cycled the key and all three codes were still present. That is why I didn't try to restart the truck, and why I was trying to get more information before I go another step. On the bright side, this forum works on my phone, so I can kind of keep up during the week! The down side is that I'm not ready to let anyone else start my truck while I'm not there, so we'll still have to wait for the weekend for a *real* update.....Thanks again for your time!

0382 = Intake Air Heater Relay No. 2 Control Circuit 0380 = Intake Air Heater Relay No. 1 Control Circuit 0215 = Fuel Injection Pump Control Circuit Greenwood, What I think may have happened is that the batteries were already low and the grid heaters already draw more amperage than the alternator can put out and depend on the batteries to make up the difference. That batteries could not make up the amperage difference so the system voltage dropped significantly. In the course of the extreme low system voltage, the grid heater relays did not have proper voltage to operate and stuck. Hence the DTC codes for BOTH relay control circuits. It is HIGHLY unlikely BOTH relay circuits would go bad at the same time. The 0215 is a coin flip. The extreme low system voltage could have triggered that as well or you may have a separate problem. Occasionally my wife comes back home minutes after leaving for work all upset that the check engine light came on. I check the system and find that a low voltage DTC code is latched. The grid heater relay stuck and drew the voltage down. I get in the truck and start it right up and all is well. Go figure. Just a momentary glitch due to her truck setting for a several days. In your case, it is a bit different story. I think I would try starting it up again with freshly charged batteries and see what happens. The DTC codes should reset themselves after 5 successful fault free, start events if my memory serves me well. (it rarely does )

0382 = Intake Air Heater Relay No. 2 Control Circuit

0380 = Intake Air Heater Relay No. 1 Control Circuit

0215 = Fuel Injection Pump Control Circuit

Greenwood,

What I think may have happened is that the batteries were already low and the grid heaters already draw more amperage than the alternator can put out and depend on the batteries to make up the difference. That batteries could not make up the amperage difference so the system voltage dropped significantly.

In the course of the extreme low system voltage, the grid heater relays did not have proper voltage to operate and stuck. Hence the DTC codes for BOTH relay control circuits. It is HIGHLY unlikely BOTH relay circuits would go bad at the same time.

The 0215 is a coin flip. The extreme low system voltage could have triggered that as well or you may have a separate problem.

Occasionally my wife comes back home minutes after leaving for work all upset that the check engine light came on. I check the system and find that a low voltage DTC code is latched. The grid heater relay stuck and drew the voltage down. I get in the truck and start it right up and all is well. Go figure. Just a momentary glitch due to her truck setting for a several days.

In your case, it is a bit different story. I think I would try starting it up again with freshly charged batteries and see what happens. The DTC codes should reset themselves after 5 successful fault free, start events if my memory serves me well. (it rarely does )

Actually its after 40 warm up cycles... So actually you should get those batteries cleaned up and charged. Then reset the codes and see what comes back... If the error codes are real they will return right away in about 5-10 minutes of run time. If not they will remain gone...

I read somewhere that it was 5 but never could verify it. Forgot where I read it. Where did you find that info Mike?

Any updates? I am glad you started this thread.

I read somewhere that it was 5 but never could verify it. Forgot where I read it. Where did you find that info Mike?

My infromation is from the Dodge FSM book and it listed right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Listed under the "Self Erasing Of Error Codes" heading...

Unfortunately no, not yet. And the way work is going, I might very well be working Saturday, which makes it pretty pointless to try and make it back home for a single day. I'll see what I can do to keep you gentlemen updated!!!

Waiting for reply from you...

TADA!!!! Only weeks late in getting back to my baby *oh, how she hates me too :P* but I got a reader, cleared the codes, and after making sure the electrical system was up to snuff, I crossed my fingers and flipped the ignition . Besides the heater grid running for it's full three-minute cycle despite the 77* ambient air temp, everything ran fine and no codes came back up! I'm assuming the codes were all from the low voltage/high voltage spikes. At least now I know I can safely run the truck and get the front end work started! Nine deer in less than two years has taken a serious toll on both upper and lower ball joint sets, not to mention all my tie-rod ends . Has anyone here used Luke's Links to rebuild their tie-rod ends or track bar? I'm just wondering if they're worth the investment. I need to replace my track bar anyway, but I don't know if I can afford the 3rd gen swap. A replacement OEM unit with a Luke's Link on the frame side is quite a bit cheaper, but I don't know if it will be enough with my lift...

You may want to check your IAT sensor. It may be faulty and causing the heater grid to operate when it should not be. It should not be operating when intake air temp is above 60 degrees.

It only ran the heater grid that first time, after that it didn't come on. I think I'm good, but I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks agaoin for everyone's input! I really appreciated the fast responses and the first hand experience that helped straighten this truck out *for now*!