Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

Edited July 3, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

1 hour ago, jlbayes said:

If you are gonna buy a new turbo...buy a s300g. It will leave you much better off for upgrades later. It will make similar power to the k27 with the same fueling.

I'm thinking to go through my hx35 for now and do more research. Is s300 usable with my exhaust brake?  If not I was even considering s36something or super B and get rid of EB. but not sure if 75hp injectors will be enough for a bigger turbo. In mean time I'll try to find a used k27 for half the price or better, then I might do it, you right 1000 bucks is too much for little gain. If my turbo was blown to pieces and I had to by a new one and had a choise hx35 or k27 I'd go with k27 but at its point I'm lost a bit.

Anything that is a S300 frame will not work with your current EB, and will require a 4" downpipe.  With the quad, you can tune it to spool the S36(2,3) pretty well, with just a touch of lag.  A 62/65/12 would be your best bet for stock-ish spooling.  If you went with a SXE (62or63/68/12) you may notice more lag

I am not sure if the k27 would work with your exhaust brake either tbh?

14 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

I am not sure if the k27 would work with your exhaust brake either tbh?

Has hx35 v-band

I know as I have a couple. I have not had a k27 in hand with the exhaust housing he would be using.

K27 would be a direct bolt on for me, that's why I'm so considering. I just wish it was slightly bigger like 62/65/14 or something. They advertising it as 60/58.83/18.2  the one on my truck I just measured it's 54/58/12 and yesterday I got one for 50 bucks hoping i could rebuild it, but both exhaust and compressor wheel were shot, so I was hoping to use a bearing housing and where oil seal goes in was shot because exhaust wheel milled it out, but at least I was able to use exhaust housing since mine was horribly rusty and it worked I hope, now I got a waste gate mount on compressor housing  (currently using ) and this other housing I put on has a mount on it too. It went together weel, so at least I have a turbo. Changing bearings didn't tighten it up much more my other ones were still good I think, kept them as spears. 

Worst thing is this core turbo I just got has 58/84 compressor wheel ( mine is 54/78 )that I could of used but it's shot and bearing housing for it shot too, I was still able to use few other things so it was not a complete waste. And I'll have a working wastegate. 

Junk turbo only used exhaust housing and stainless half moon clamps

This is how I pried both of them apart, just used 2 bolts opposite from each other and back them out quarter-turn at a time and drove them quarter inch steel plates with a hammer between flat surface and bolt, they both came appart.

 

Housing on the left I hoped to use

Edited July 13, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

Too bad about the bearing housing being junk.  A 58mm would be a good step up from the 54mm.

Are you sure the exducer on your original turbine was a 58mm?  It should have been 60mm...  58mm is the HY35 turbine

Both of these turbso had identical turbines, unless I measured it wrong 

And they both said hx35w on them

Curious.

Yeah it sure sucks I had my hopes up, would of been good for a while till I made-up my mind on different set up

There will always be deals on turbos. This'll work good until you decide to go bigger

Took the opportunity of head being off and did my rock solid bushing for steering, it was still not super easy and probably can be done without removing steering column but I feel bad for that guy. Anyway it's nice and tite just how I like it. Hopefully clunk will go away now. I'll let you all know.

Hold up, what is happening there?

15 minutes ago, trreed said:

Hold up, what is happening there?

That's my new valve springs I'm putting in, going to be running a huge cam, lol sorry couldn't help. I thought everyone was aware of this steering mod, gets rid of tiny little bearing in steering column and you get a nice poly bushing instead, supposed to help with lose steering and clunking on column. 

Hmmmm.  I had no idea this existed until just now...

And here is a brand new turbo that has 2 places for a waste gate to mount and yes this waste gate is like new and hopefully will work just fine, might have to adjust boost elbow. And you can see head studs all cleaned up and in order that they came out. Also my water pump was getting lose so I got a gates one along with a thermostat and radiator cap. And kids love blue bunny, I get the empty ones.

2 minutes ago, trreed said:

Hmmmm.  I had no idea this existed until just now...

http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com

I bought it directly from him

4 minutes ago, trreed said:

Hmmmm.  I had no idea this existed until just now...

http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com

Blue Bunny in Iowa?  That's Kemps country... (I'm Minnesotan so I like Kemps)

Thanks for that link.  I'm going to check that bushing/spring and see how loose it is.  Might be my issue.

Edited July 14, 20177 yr by trreed

Got another question about turbo. Here is a description from daps website.

 

(Borg Warner K27 replacement for the Holset HX35W turbocharger.

The K27 is capable of supporting up to 400HP. It features a 60/83.7mm Forged Milled Wheel (FMW) 7/7-blade design compressor to resist low- and high-cycle fatigue. The turbine is a quick-response, 70/58.83mm 12 blade advanced design cast in Inconel and provides great backpressure control. The turbine housing is a twin-volute, single-valve wastegate housing with 18.2cm2 nozzle area and an adjustable wastegate actuator that is preset at 1.8bar. The oil Inlet is threaded M12 and the oil drain is threaded M8, just like the Holset. )

Would you call it a 60/58.8/18.2 or 60/70/18.2 I sent it called both ways,  thought it was inducer/exducer/exhaust housing cm2

7 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

 thought it was inducer/exducer/exhaust housing cm2

This is correct.  So it's a 60/58.8/18.2

12 minutes ago, trreed said:

This is correct.  So it's a 60/58.8/18.2

So basically it's identical to @Mopar1973Man hybrid aside from I belive his is 60/60/12 be interesting to know all numbers, Mike also mentioned that it's more laggy but sounds like he's running stock injectors at its time. Really makes me wonder why my exhaust turbine measures 58 and the one I just tore appart also 58 and it should be in hy35 

That's why dap said k27 is better for Towing to keep egts and drive pressure down, and shouldn't affect spool because it's a whole different design of a turbo

Edited July 14, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture