Hey guys,

 

I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only.

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tlemcen-electronic.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D12157

 

So bottom line is, I think we could read & write from the eeprom. The question is who is going to modify the code. I know somebody was saying it was encrypted, and that wouldnt surprise me, but it sounded like the french lads were pulling it encrypted. If we could find out what it's encrypted with, and we rented some Amazon AWS servers, run a linux shell to brute force it or rainbow table it, whatever it be. I have to guess that 1998 encryption schemes would be very crackable these days. The Geforce 1080 is no joke /w 2x the power of the 980 and half the power consumption. I saw 3M connectors to read from it without taking it off the board. It sounds like they wrote to it by enabling 5v on the correct pin/leg of the chip (I dont know which exactly b/c I couldnt get to their attachments), but soldering a new one on /w a fresh flash is something I imagine could be more convenient. I did come across pin diagrams for the chip on either their site or another. I dont know if you'd have to take the 5v away from it after the write, but by the way they talked it didnt sound like it. Hard to tell through translation, though.

 

Other interesting links:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.vp44diesel.de/de/pumpen-vp44-psg-16&prev=search

http://codecard.eu/carprog/software/by-obdii-for-opel-psg16-diesel-pump-read/repair-mileage-read-pin-reset-ecu/prod_375.html

I requested an invite code, see post #6 here http://mhhauto.com/Thread-zafira-pump-psg16-replacement-and-programming

Cheapest place I have seen carprog http://www.ecutool.com/CARPROG-FULL-with-all-Softwares-Activated-and-all-21-Adapters_8243.html#5

 

Essentially I recently became knee deep in this hobby. I have a 98.5 24v /w D&J motor built to 700hp spec /w CNC'd head on intake & exhaust, 62/68/0.80 + S475/96/1.32 twins, currently running 50hp inectors /w new Edge Juice Comp with smarty SO3 on the side. I have 120hp DDP injectors next to me that just got backfrom warranty, which Lenny looked at personally. The first time around Brian handled it. I've spent a lot of time fixing drive pressure and boost pressure leaks, I think they are 99% sorted based on the performance I'm feeling. I need to do another boost test leak. More on things: 5" down pipe, mishi rad & intercooler, banks monster intake, blah blah. Still only seeing 43lbs of boost. Without the wiretap I only saw 28 psi max on a brand new Industrial Injection VP44. After putting my old pump back on, that is wiretapped, I once again saw 43psi. This is what enlightened me to the necessity of having proper fueling. I'm so far into this VP44 platform now that I wont be switching to CP3, unfortunately. Got it all mated to a Firepunk Comp I in a ext cab LB chassis. I paid some guys to work on my truck and was so let down that I learned the hard way, the only way is to do it yourself.

 

I come from a background of computers and dirt bikes. My dad was a firmware/software/hardware engineer who came to the US from Australia. Due to him being an alcoholic I wouldnt waste my time asking for his advice, but once upon a time he was very smart knowing low level stuff like assembly (programming), layers to protocols, making PCB's, soldering them all up, programming them all up, etc. Credit card readers & bill acceptors seemed to be his bread and butter primarily. Also some assembly line stuff like productivity displays, etc. For roughly 20 yrs he worked solo as his own contractor. 

 

Perhaps this could lead somewhere? I'm considering sending back my II VP44 for a hodrod pump, seeing as my tapped reman VP44 that came on the truck is running just as good & better with the wiretap. I had previously bought the new std output VP44 from II as a method to troubleshoot a hard-start condition when (almost) eveyrthing else had been tried. Turned out to be a drive pressure leak @ the 90* hot pipe connecting the turbos -- I fixed it, and the truck starts as it should.

Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

 

 

 

 

 

If you came into my shop to have a transmission built, with a 62mm top turbo and that large-housing S475 on the bottom, I would recommend a stock stall speed converter. I would recommend either a Goerend 17SS or a DPC equivalent. Both are fantastic converters. Anything tighter than that is going to really kill the bottom end performance and introduce a LOT of smoke into the mix due to its inability to spool the larger turbos and make boost.

 

Once you have the correct converter, set the TV cable so that the WOT 1-2 shift occurs at about 2800-2900 rpm (on your setup) and, assuming a well-calibrated valve body, you should be set. I think I read somewhere that you had appx. 1/4" of slack in the TV cable at "idle" position. That is going to be WAY too loose. Typically, the cable will be in a "neutral" position or slightly pre-loaded to achieve the desired shift rpm on a 2nd Gen 47RE.

Cool Dynamic, I appreciate the info. Do you have a shop, company FB page, etc? My low end performance is always a struggle because it shifts out of 1st gear at 7mph, if I dont floor it the thing just doesnt rev out and was up-shifting so fast with the slack in the TV cable you mentioned. Even now without the slack it still jumps into 2nd gear at 1500-1600rpm, or maybe 7-10mph. Barely putt around a corner and its already in 2nd gear. That makes the smoke pour because ofcourse rpms have now dropped, and its keeping me from installing the 120hp injectors I have, which is keeping me from the performance I desire/expected/paid for if you will. So I appreciate the advice & insight dearly.

Firepunk told me on the phone its "slightly below stock" stall speed. On their site they show for the TC I have, an option that says "3FP (1950 or 150 below stock) **Most Common**". Im surprised, from a novice's perspective, that 150rpm below stock stall speed makes that big of a difference? It does, or you were thinking I had a 1700rpm low stall converter, or ? Just trying to make sure we are talking about the same things, so my expectations of it being able to improve spoolup & smoke are realistic.

https://shopfirepunk.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=81_83&product_id=120

I think my TV cable now has slight preload because the cable is tight, making my pedal quite (or should I say: very) firm. It seems the only way to adjust the cable's position is under the hood by the "apps box". It didnt look adjustable where it hooked up the to TV lever arm at the trans like I expected it to. Is this normal or did I fail to assess the situation properly?

Edited October 12, 20177 yr by rogerash0

On 10/12/2017 at 4:13 PM, rogerash0 said:

Cool Dynamic, I appreciate the info. Do you have a shop, company FB page, etc? My low end performance is always a struggle because it shifts out of 1st gear at 7mph, if I dont floor it the thing just doesnt rev out and was up-shifting so fast with the slack in the TV cable you mentioned. Even now without the slack it still jumps into 2nd gear at 1500-1600rpm, or maybe 7-10mph. Barely putt around a corner and its already in 2nd gear. That makes the smoke pour because ofcourse rpms have now dropped, and its keeping me from installing the 120hp injectors I have, which is keeping me from the performance I desire/expected/paid for if you will. So I appreciate the advice & insight dearly.

 

I still think you have a valve body issue. My truck shifts WOT at 2900, but under partial throttle it is about 2K on the tach.  The torque converter shouldn't have an effect on shifting. Although, I will admit I tend to lock out O/D and keep my engine rpm's above 1,500rpm and shift between "2" and "D" with O/D off under 45-50mph. 

For me shifting isn't the issue, it is when i back off the throttle, and the truck is idling she won't shift till its too late.  Although, I have a SMARTY on my truck and it effects the shift points as well. truck shifts way to late when the TM# is lower.

 

On 10/12/2017 at 4:13 PM, rogerash0 said:

 

I think my TV cable now has slight preload because the cable is tight, making my pedal quite (or should I say: very) firm. It seems the only way to adjust the cable's position is under the hood by the "apps box". It didnt look adjustable where it hooked up the to TV lever arm at the trans like I expected it to. Is this normal or did I fail to assess the situation properly?

You are correct, adjustment is just on the APPS side. Side note, I have a pair of springs on my TV cable leer on the transmission side? 

The stall speed can and will effect shift points, BUT not directly rather as a result of needing less TPS input to move off from a stop.  A low stall converter will require will APPS movement than a high stall converter during daily driving situtations.  This means that you get less pull on the TV and shorter shift points.

Ocean, I have one spring on the end of the TV cable down by the tranny. Im pretty sure the one spring I have is the correct orientation based off other videos and photos I have seen. I have been wondering about the VB all along.. 2k rpm shifts would be great, thats right in the meat of the power. Its been hard for me to tell, because its a Comp I tranny.. maybe its setup for racing primarily. I should have called in and gotten all my ducks in a row rather than ordering straight through XDP online. I ordered through XDP because it came to roughly $5000 for a $6000 transmission. Core return was pre-paid, I got 10% off, shipping was cheaper/cheapest, overall it was the best deal I could find par none.

 

Nice post Me, I get what your saying, I suppose to what extent are the shifts shorter, is the big question? The only way to find out for sure might be just to change from my current stall to a stock stall without changing anything else to find out.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by rogerash0

This is my truck here shifting with the Smarty  Notice the shift points 

 

 

Medium Throttle.

 

Now WOT same settings

 

 

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean

Under light throttle I get a bad bog between 50-60mph on the cluster when TC locks @ 50 in 4th gear. It's hard to overcome if I dont go from 15-20% throttle to 40-60% throttle to make it downshift. I only get stuck in this situation badly when Im at light throttle, 10-20% mentioned, and/or if the truck is cold. If I accelerate hard the truck may not lockup til 60mph and by then Im past this point. Remember my tach is a bit off, 50 on the tach is more like 43 or 45mph.

 

When you say medium throttle are you talking 1/3 pedal? I've started to have my APPS % up on the edge display to verify the % throttle Im telling you guys is accurate. Its pretty accurate to what I thought it was all along.

 

Your oil pressure looked to stay pegged even when you let out of your WOT run.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by rogerash0

5 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Under light throttle I get a bad bog between 50-60mph on the cluster when TC locks @ 50 in 4th gear. It's hard to overcome if I dont go from 15-20% throttle to 40-60% throttle to make it downshift. I only get stuck in this situation badly when Im at light throttle, 10-20% mentioned, and/or if the truck is cold. If I accelerate hard the truck may not lockup til 60mph and by then Im past this point. Remember my tach is a bit off, 50 on the tach is more like 43 or 45mph.

 

When you say medium throttle are you talking 1/3 pedal? I've started to have my APPS % up on the edge display to verify the % throttle Im telling you guys is accurate. Its pretty accurate to what I thought it was all along.

I thought the Medium throttle video posted to the post, Apparently it didn't. Let me to go find it on Youtube.

My truck has a similar point right around where you speak of 42-48mph for me, you need to push the throttle. That is why I drive around in 3rd locked, and then shift out into O/D around 45 mph, and by the time she shifts into 4, and locks the TC im above that 1,500rpm line.

Yes, my Oil Pressure gauge lies quite a bit. sometimes it takes 30 seconds to register pressure.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean

Oh I see the title is Light Throttle on the first youtube vid you posted. You just wrote Medium throttle below it. I got mixed up there. Watched it a third time and u say small light throttle in the vid. What is small light throttle to you? To me its 10-20%. I could turn the tuner down and use more throttle, but then I dont have the power when I want it.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by rogerash0

The shift point change can be pretty major.  %5 change in throttle position ot get moving will result in a much different shift point.     That's a big thing I noticed when I went with a super low stall converter. I needed MUCH less tps input to get moving.  

 

There is a signficant difference in how the butt dyno controls the right foot.  

13 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Oh I see the title is Light Throttle on the first youtube vid you posted. You just wrote Medium throttle below it. I got mixed up there. Watched it a third time and u say small light throttle in the vid. What is small light throttle to you? To me its 10-20%. I could turn the tuner down and use more throttle, but then I dont have the power when I want it.

 

if you fast forward to 1.30 seconds in that video I did another test at a higher percentage throttle.

 

Yes small light throttle to me is dropping an egg on the peddle, Not much movement, TPS on Scan Gauge reads 20 or less. I do have to increase my foot as i accelerate up in speed. 

 

medium seems to be about 40%, bot seems more like about 1/3 to 1/2 of the pedal movement.

 

 

11 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

The shift point change can be pretty major.  %5 change in throttle position ot get moving will result in a much different shift point.     That's a big thing I noticed when I went with a super low stall converter. I needed MUCH less tps input to get moving.  

 

There is a signficant difference in how the butt dyno controls the right foot.  

Yes I totally agree with this.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean

Crazy on the TC business. Good to know. That's probably the most tangible information Ive gotten out of reading/talking up on the TC. 

 

I wish my truck shifting in the meat of the power like yours at light/med throttle. I often wonder if it doesnt because they must compromise to make it shift like a dream (like it does) at WOT. It's always shifted like a bmf at WOT.

5 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Crazy on the TC business. Good to know. That's probably the most tangible information Ive gotten out of reading/talking up on the TC. 

 

I wish my truck shifting in the meat of the power like yours at light/med throttle. I often wonder if it doesnt because they must compromise to make it shift like a dream (like it does) at WOT. It's always shifted like a bmf at WOT.

 

My transmission was (supposedly) built for towing, with a valve body with shifting set up for towing and locked TC use. 
 

Over time I have come to believe that when towing you really should keep the rpm's above 1,600. As the timing pressure is way to high under lower rpm. 

When towing I will usually shift the truck manually, around 2,200 rpm's when accelerating, and I keep the tach between 1,500 and 2,300 when towing heavy.

37 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

I should have called in and gotten all my ducks in a row rather than ordering straight through XDP online. I ordered through XDP because it came to roughly $5000 for a $6000 transmission. Core return was pre-paid, I got 10% off, shipping was cheaper/cheapest, overall it was the best deal I could find par none.

Ouch... Too bad my website wasn't functional when you were in the market! LOL

I would shift manually, but every time I've done it if the truck is above idle rpm at all, it hits semi-hard. Hard enough for me not to keep on doing it. To roll out of the throttle for 5 sec plus for the rpm to be totally all the way down, zero zero power at teh wheels, then shift for a smooth manual shift, its essentially counter productive.

You definitely have some sort of valve body issue going on. DO you know whose VB it is?

@Dynamic yeah I agree. Its so hard to know who to go to.. I figured Firepunk was safe bet, plus Im from the midwest (Indiana) so thats why I support the boys over there like them & D&J. Still, seems like a lot of half baked good and schemers in the industry. Like every mechanic thats ever touched my truck, for example.

@Dynamic Its a full Firepunk Comp I trans from their shop. Came on the pallet with the flexplate and TC.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by rogerash0

Have you talked to Lavon about it?

2 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

I would shift manually, but every time I've done it if the truck is above idle rpm at all, it hits semi-hard. Hard enough for me not to keep on doing it. To roll out of the throttle for 5 sec plus for the rpm to be totally all the way down, zero zero power at teh wheels, then shift for a smooth manual shift, its essentially counter productive.

I think you need to adjust the programmer at this point. You want power yes, but higher up is where you need it. Like for me I've been playing allot with the Smarty, in terms of smoke control and performance. I will say that even with my smarty there are levels and settings I can't use because the truck shifts in odd manors. 

Like the current settings I have that is what you see, but if I change the Torque Management up  It gets more sensitive the faster you move the pedal, more smoke, so Lower TM is fine, because once your moving you don't need that TM anyways. 

4 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

@Dynamic yeah I agree. Its so hard to know who to go to.. I figured Firepunk was safe bet, plus Im from the midwest (Indiana) so thats why I support the boys over there like them & D&J. Still, seems like a lot of half baked good and schemers in the industry. Like every mechanic thats ever touched my truck, for example.

@Dynamic Its a full Firepunk Comp I trans from their shop. Came on the pallet with the flexplate and TC.

 

When you Say com 1 transmission, is that built for towing or racing? I suspect this may be a valve body built for a drag strip, and your using it as a daily driver.
 

No, he's such a busy guy I havnt. Ive spoken to Rick and someone else. Every time Ive called that shop those guys are pretty barky on the phone and seem like they wanna get off in about 5-10 seconds, likely because everyone in the country is calling them all day long, they cant get anything done. I know how that feels at work. I did schedule a day to come by their shop on 6 or 7 Nov. One day is them, the other day is D&J. Hopefully they can help me out then. Im driving from Montana to Virginia, so I'll stop in Indiana and drive over there those two days.

Edited October 16, 20177 yr by rogerash0